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Robin

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Posts posted by Robin

  1. Vitesse rear wheel cylinder

    in Braking System

    Posted

    Could also be collapsed flexi-hose.

     

    I would change everything in pairs, so both hoses,cylinders, shoes etc. none of those items are that expensive and brakes are quite important  ;)

     

    Canley Classics & Paddocks are most peoples favourites, but do check prices at the TSSC Club Shop,normal quite competitive.

     

    Darren

     

    Thanks Darren

     

    So do I only need to bleed the rear brakes if I replace both sides?

  2. Vitesse rear wheel cylinder

    in Braking System

    Posted

    I've just been checking the rear brake shoes on my Vitesse for wear (all seem OK) but I've realised that the driver side rear brakes aren't working at all!

     

    I've checked the pipes and the handbrake cable (all OK) but when I press the brake pedal nothing happens - no movement of the shoes or any other part.

     

    Can I assume that the wheel cylinder is seized? If so a couple of questions;

     

    1. Where is the best place to get a new one?

    2. What problems am I likely to encounter when fitting?

    3. Do I need to bleed all four brakes or only the one I'm replacing the cylinder on?

     

    Also, If I decide to replace the shoes I'm assuming I should do both sides?

     

    Thanks

     

    Robin

     

    Also - the drum was quite difficult to get off (and back on) as the shoes were pressing against the inside

  3. Vitesse rear wheel cylinder

    in Braking System

    Posted

    I've just been checking the rear brake shoes on my Vitesse for wear (all seem OK) but I've realised that the driver side rear brakes aren't working at all!

     

    I've checked the pipes and the handbrake cable (all OK) but when I press the brake pedal nothing happens - no movement of the shoes or any other part.

     

    Can I assume that the wheel cylinder is seized? If so a couple of questions;

     

    1. Where is the best place to get a new one?

    2. What problems am I likely to encounter when fitting?

    3. Do I need to bleed all four brakes or only the one I'm replacing the cylinder on?

     

    Also, If I decide to replace the shoes I'm assuming I should do both sides?

     

    Thanks

     

    Robin

  7. Master cylinder kit

    in Braking System

    Posted

    As an alternative to the greasgun  method, I have an old plastic 0625 M/C I connect to the one I am working on, then fill it with fluid and shove the actuator in manually on the bench. It usually frees off the piston. Put plenty of old newspapaer down on the bench and wear PPE. If the piston is not actually seized from standing for years, it is usually a ring of grease and muck at the limit of the piston's travel that is holding them in.

     

    Regards

     

    Steve

    Hi Steve

     

    How did you connect the two MCs together? Also, I'm assuming you fill the 'spare' MC with the fluid not the one which has the stuck piston?

  8. Master cylinder kit

    in Braking System

    Posted

    H

     

    Hi Robin - I had the same issue - If you add a grease nipple to the bleed valve thread and pump in grease using a Wanner type grease gun it will free up - im told the Wanner gun reaches 2000 psi or something incredible - You will need to hold on the MC cap or it will blow off - I used a cutup inner tube wrapping it around the MC cap holding the inner tubing in place with tape . It took a few minutes to release the piston and the MC cap will start to move as pressure builds up - Im told there could be a bang when the piston releases - This didnt happen in my case though held in a vice to be safe - Once out you will have a lot of grease to remove but it works 

    Hope this helps 

    Paul 

    Hi Paul

     

    Sounds like fun!

     

    What did you use to clean out the grease afterwards?

  9. Master cylinder kit

    in Braking System

    Posted

    I've got a Girling brake MC that I want to refurbish and then re-fit - It looks to be in good condition with no obvious wear. I've removed the circlip but can't get the assembly out - I've tried tapping the casing, heating it, lubricating the inner bore with brake fluid but nothing seems to work. One thing I have noticed is that if I push the plunger completely in it doesn't immediately spring back but instead takes quite a while for it to return to the edge of the casing - does this indicate a bigger problem?

  10. Vitesse Mk2 master brake cylinder

    in Braking System

    Posted

    Hi Robin - the correct set up for Mk2 Vitesse  is for 0.7 for the brake and 0.625 for the clutch . My setup is the Brake MC on the left and the Clutch on the right 

     

    Hope this helps 

     

    Paul 

     

     

    Paul

     

    Hi Paul

     

    Yes you're right - I've now realised that it's the clutch mc that's been changed on my Vitesse not the brake mc. What confused me is the replacement clutch mc actually has ' brake fluid' written on the lid but having now traced the pipes I can see it's actually the clutch mc. As this one has the leak I'll either need to change the seal or replace it with the original 0.625 one once I've cleaned it up. Thanks again, Robin

  12. Vitesse Mk2 master brake cylinder

    in Braking System

    Posted

    Initially remove the circlip , then tap out the internal piston. You might need to bang the mc hard on the bench to get the piston to move .If the internal bore is scored , scratched its suggested the unit should be changed. The small Girling is a 5/8 or .625 and is for the clutch

    Hope this helps

    Paul

    Hi Paul - that's really interesting as my Vitesse currently has the larger 0.7 cylinder being used for the clutch so I assumed the 5/8 would be the for the brake. Is my set up the wrong way round? What would happen if I also used the 0.7 for the brake as well?

     

    Thanks

     

    Robin

  15. Distributor & fuel pump oil leak

    in Engine

    Posted

    i would just seal what you have,  there is a controlled endfloat of the drive gear details in the manual.

     

    you select gaskets to get the correct setting ,, its 0.003-0.007"  endfloat/lift of the gear with the pedestal nipped up tight.

    Hi Pete

     

    Would you use a silicon sealer as well as the gasket/ spacer?

     

    Thanks

     

    Robin

  16. Distributor & fuel pump oil leak

    in Engine

    Posted

    Hi John and everyone else

     

    Thanks for the suggestions and I agree that it's a bit odd that both leaks started at the same time. The only thing that's changed recently (last week before this happened)  is that I had the core plugs replaced on the water side so the manifolds came off - nothing changed on the 'oil side'.

     

    I've now managed to replace the missing bolt on the dizzy and tightened the fuel pump bolts as Pete suggested but  I've still got the leaks as previously mentioned - there's no leak from the dipstick but a small deposit of oil around the rocker cover boIts. 

     

    I've checked the hoses, emission valve and the oil filler cap (photo attached) but can't find any obstructions. The leaks don't seem to happen at tick-over - only after the car has been out for a run -  I ran the car with the filler cap off (no 'wind') as John suggested but only at tick-over speed with no leaks. Went out for drive and leaks returned.

     

    I guess my only option is to replace the dizzy spacer and the fuel pump gasket and see if that cures it. It looks as though there are two sizes for the dizzy spacers - 0.006 & 0.020. How do I know which one I need?

     

    Many thanks again

     

     

     

    Robin

    post-127-0-49579800-1492444615_thumb.jpg

  19. Distributor & fuel pump oil leak

    in Engine

    Posted

    Guess you tried to fit a short setcrew to the missing  without success,  , you need to ndo the dizzy clamp bolt and raise the case a little

     

    mark the dizzy and its postion in the clamp , so if it rotates a bit you can put it back where it came from.

     

    have you tried nipping the pump up ???   only 2  1\2" headed bolts.,    you can remove the pump without  removing the pipes and fiddle a sealer behind the face to re seal it.

     

    if you remove the pipes there is some syphon effect on a vit/herald even though the  suction tube is at the top of the tank,  a drill shank stuffed up the hose soon holds it back,  you could clamp the hose but that doesnt do the hose much good..

     

    are you sure its from the mount face and not from the bleed hole under the main body ???

     

    whats you engine breather like  any blockages or bunged up filter mesh inside  the rocker cover ( if it has one)

     

    Pete

    Hi Pete - so if I mark the position I should be able to lift the dizzy out and refit with affecting the timing?

  20. Distributor & fuel pump oil leak

    in Engine

    Posted

    I don't know about your distributor but on my fuel pump there's a small "tell-tale" hole on the left/underside; it can be checked with a small mirror and a torch. I had a new pump start leaking from here and giving the impression that it was the gasket that had failed.

    Thanks - will take a look. Did you need to replace the pump?

  21. Distributor & fuel pump oil leak

    in Engine

    Posted

    I've got two  small oil leaks that appear to be coming from the base of the distributor (where it meets the block) and also from where the fuel pump meets the block. I'm also missing a bolt that secures the distributor clamp (see photo) but can't fit a new one while the distributor is in place. Could this missing bolt be the cause of the oil leak?

     

    I'm assuming that both the distributor and the fuel pump are fitted with gaskets so my questions are;

     

    1. Can I loosen off the clamp and remove the distributor, fit new spacers/gaskets and fit a new bolt without having to reset the timing? If not are there any tips on getting the timing correct?

     

    2. is it possible that oil could seep past the fuel pump gasket? If so is it easy to remove the fuel pump and fit a new gasket without having to drain the fuel from the tank first of all? Is there anything else I need to be aware of?

     

    Many thanks

     

     

    Robin

    post-127-0-25652600-1492347841_thumb.jpg

  22. Vitesse core plug water leak

    in Engine

    Posted

    Not hard to remove or replace - dig the old one out (hammer a screwdriver through the middle and twist) and don't damage the block / head around it; clan up the aperture with a wire brush and then replace like for like with a little bit of sealer. I wouldn't use any sealant type additive as they just gum things up - make sure you keep the coolant well topped up and carry spare water just in case.

    Thanks Colin - Can you let me know payment details for the boot channel?

  24. Vitesse core plug water leak

    in Engine

    Posted

    I've just noticed a small water leak dripping down the engine block. At first I thought it might be a blown cylinder head gasket but on closer inspection I think it might be leaking from a core plug (photos attached). If it's the latter, is it it a complicated job to replace the plug and a also where would I get a replacement?

     

    One other thing - the leak only seems to occur after the engine has stopped, not while it's running. Is there any temporary sealer I could use?

     

    Many thanks

     

    Robin

    post-127-0-64629500-1490976332_thumb.jpg

    post-127-0-96075700-1490976382_thumb.jpg

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