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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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hey Clive...Holiday...you get a well deserved from me ..
Pete
and a thought, many repaired triumphs have a lot of Indian and Chinese lack of originality built in
Pete
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1
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yes Mike, trouble is we both been involved in the past and these idea's are easy , the implementation and implications are the hidden extra's
Pete
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So those with on line copies would have to pay 20% more membership fee to offset the vat free saving that magazine members currently enjoy
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some do it in the oven when the boss is out
Pete
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Rolls Royce heritage has a merlin on a trailer , and 2013 saw peter grieves from carlise run his up at our duxford show awesome
but they have a cut down prop, or you get grass with the experience
Pete
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a thought to add to why there is a printed Courier is some simple maths many may not realise
the magazine is zero rated VAT, it is priced to offset /reduce VAT on the Membership Fees, reduce the sales volume and membership fee's will increase by the lost 20%
maybe archive online , but again needs hands to make it work , someone has to do these things , like all places staff are pretty stretched
just a thought Pete
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No , and it wont load in kevins suggestion ,, its seriously lost in the russian outback
COURIER 376 October 2011 has Carolyns Article page 34
spent ages searching the DVD but its after the cut off. .....lost in the bookshelf ha!
Pete
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found my link to the old forum from the CT forum is this the right stuff ???
http://www.tssc.org.uk/index.php?option=com_fireboard&Itemid=55&func=view&id=62545&catid=218
this is short the whole link shows in edit view
Pete
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the slider stops the latch rising out of the striker with body movements.
the taper sprung wedge takes out any 'lift' clearance , without it the cam lever can lift up and above the striker latch face and .... the door opens
convertible have the added tongue and staple same as the TR's to double up t a solution to this .
the spring can be repaired with some careful work, may need annealing with a small heat source to re form any broken ends
its a fiddle but possible
Pete
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Also being too big doesnt mean better
The capacity is matched to its needs if its overcapacity it will not get cycled
and cells will die early
ete
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Carolyn made a full script and pictures on when installing a T9 in Her spitfire
this was well visited in the lost forum, Im sure the article was used in
the Courier, but cant find it just now
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Yes two good straight bars or plank and tape measure
You need 150lbs on each seat before you checkmany geometry
so load it , with renta crowd or sacks of coal/sand
with the help place the planks against the tyre above the ground bulge and tape measure across the car, use a long plank as said to sight the alignment down the sill.
you will get a result in 5 minutes and its free
rear toe in static laden is around 0-3mm toe in
pete
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Good I can put the E45 away now
Ha
Pete
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I Agree,
whilst rear toe out will tend to lower the ride and excess toe in will raise the ride its unlikely to
cause sag on one side
certainly check the front anti roll if you cant jack , try removing one sides drop link. There shoild be no real
load side to side.if it springs out of line its bent .
Check with a tape the ride height of the front springs
let us all knownwhat you find from the clues suggested
lean is often nothing to do with where you see the effect
pete
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The only common area between oil pump and dizzy is the drive shafts and gears off the camshaft
problems here are unlikely
the starting could anything fuel drain back is common , and dont expect much oil pressure to show
whilst cranking, if any at all.
is the choke fully operating ?
Does yor pump have a hand prime lever ? you can raise fuel with ?
Do you get a spark at the plug leads?
its not uncommon to have to crank for a considerable time after weeks of layup
if you have the original side mounted oil filter these will drain back quickly it takes a lot of cranking to refill and start to build pressure, even the spin on filters can and do drain back
they are not rocket science , just a rubber flap valve .
there is no spec for cranking or idle oil pressures the triumph spec is 40/60psi at 2000 rpm
Just some thoughts
Pete
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Mabe its been
pinking Ha!!!
Well someone had to say it
might you have been playing P....k Floyd on the radio
pete
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Most in my area are for model related sections
Many dislike trawling through the content to find 'their' particular interest
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A How To so we can post useful sollutions and ideas to
thebsnags and problems we encounter ??
pete
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Hi Roger, Autograph ....last needed by the bank manager Ha!!!
How about a 10,000 shades of grey as a heading
Pete, still around just not so involved since the data was lost
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think there's no doubt old lever arms are and never were the bee's knees,
yes she was non rotaflex , had courier spring and 1" drop plate, having failed to get anywhere with a swing spring
stick to basic spec would have saved a load of £££
have been involved with many truck testing and films of the real what goes on is eye watering
the last in house bit of video my small dept made is now history , you tube RB44 made with a camera a rubber duck ,1/2 a brick and some good will
its an awful copy but there's some good suspension and tyre deflection shots but nowt on shockers Ha"
Pete
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Std shocks should be made to conform to a specification devised from miles of testing and dynamometer
rig tests, so if of reasonable quality should be fit and forget does what it says on the tin.
adjustables can be a nightmare of twiddling to get a bump and rebound to suit you and your car
gaz are the easiest to adjust via a accessible hand wheel .
spax is a screwdriver
the Vitesee had gaz front and spax rears , never pleased with the settings , forever too hard too soft
Balance front to rear was never right , and you cant see whats going on on the road to decide
whether to stiffen or soften , I would suggest for good to fast road use fit the best std you can find and use the residual cash to fuel the tank and drive her
pete
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A smear of sealant and a good hand tight is all thats needed on the adaptor
the sleeve nut with olive only needs enough to crimp the olive to the new pipe
overtightening will only crush the olive and make removal difficult and will probably leak
once the pipe nut is nipped it needs about 1/2 turn max to compress the olive and seal it
and a squirt of lube on the hose clip spiral makes easy tightening in dificult locations
pete
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After much searching to find a Pub that suits our needs ,has good car park with lighting ,a room to use without
upsetting Diner's and a good selection of beers on tap and enthusiastic publican and after many a good pub crawl have come up with THE CROWN PH 104 High Road Shillington Beds SG5 3LP we continue to meet on the Fourth Monday of each Month, (not the last ) around 8pm
The Rising Sun at Halls Green served us well but was at the very edge of the member scatter, we developed a map
with all the members post codes and it was clear a corridor from between south of Bedford and west of Hitchin was
the centre line of all and as the Crown does not do Meals on a Monday evening we have the whole restaurant area
available to use as we please, so we may now be able to hold talks and informative evenings as things evolve
the first meeting is 23rd February 8pm all are welcome you dont need a car or membership to join in
thanks Peter
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I posted on here somewhere that when removing the pipe the hose snapped off the down facing spout of the banjo elbow item 4
all very corroded and past their best .
if this happens there is a nice brass one available, but the banjo bolt can be a swine and more than often shears off
then its manifold off and much sweat and tears ...luckily mine unscrewed with the fingers after a couple of flats undoing.
the adaptor at the pump end you are talking about can be stiff and the sleeve nut may be stuck on the tube so when you undo ,the old pipe goes around
with it .. make sure the banjo spouts and the pump adaptor are clear as these do get obstructed with crud
pete
Vibration at 45+ mph
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
there has to be some telescope effect be it a slide or strapped coupling
propshaft vibration is rapid, its same speed as engine in top gear , so vibration is high frequecy,
most likely is one of the drive shaft UJ has failed or has some joint float, this is road wheel speed and can be worse on cornering
can make some awfull vibrations as the cross pin moves in the journals... get a pry bar you dont want any shift in the cross pin
do this with the wheels at road height , ie jack up on stands but support the wheels.
Pete