ahebron
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Posts posted by ahebron
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Not uncommon for vehicle wranglers on film sets to put period looking plates on cars that they dont belong on.
Or DVLA has it wrong
Or the car is a ring in. -
Damnit I have Strange Fruit in my head again after seeing this thread title.
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Rhynas BMW F650GS motorbike stood unridden for nearly 2 years.
When I tried to start it it wouldnt.
The fuel filler neck looked it had started to corrode so I removed it and found it was a brown fuel residue that took a day in the US cleaner to loosen it enough to remove the residue.
The fuel pump was covered inside and out with the same looking stuff and after I cleaned out the tank and fitted a new pumpit ran fine. In the past I fitted an extra fuel filter so that is ok. I put the gummed up pump in the US cleaner for a day and it cleaned itself up nicely, must test it one day -
I think I have mentioned before on here to never rely on the body/chassis as a return path for electrics on vehicles.
I always try run a neutral cable to everything that needs it and bond the body or chassis.
I welded studs on the back of the front indicator sidelights on the Vitesse when I found it uses the bonnet as its return.
Far to many variables in our cars lives will have gone on.
I even saw this on a friends 2014 Nissan pickup, the rear power outlet he fitted in the tray stopped working but gave a 12 volt reading on a meter, turns out the neutral was just to the tray and it is rubber mounted with a nice steel bolt clamping the chassis to the body. As he lives on a boat in a marina and the pickup parks on the hard it had a regular salt treatment which had corroded the mounting bolts enough so they would not allow an electrical load to pass through them.My Vitesse 6 battery neutral goes to the bulkhead lh nut side then to a starter motor bolt on the gearbox
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I went to a haberdashery (?) shop and bought plastic green 'emeralds' these are faceted and have a flat back with a silver backing.
Scrape the backing off and superglue it to threaded bit that I had cleaned up and goes into the dash.
Works a treat and looks bling-ish -
23 hours ago, Top Banana said:
When I got my GT6 it wouldnt do more than 35mph completely gutless and I felt heartbroken, how can a 2 litre 95Bhp on a car only weighing 840 odd Kg be so slow. There is a solution and you will find it. I doubted the carbs and the electronic ignition as you are. I worked on the carbs when there was probably no issues with them in reality (but boy you learn a lot). Finally with mine it was the timing it was badly off, but stupidly it started well and idled okay which gave me a false sense of security thinking it cant be the timing.
I cant believe it your electronic ignition - its not intelligent enough and as others have said check the timing with a strobe or before doing that keep advancing the timing if you have a micrometer advance/retard adjuster on the dizzy. That was the solution to mine in the end, not enough advance even after I timmed it with a strobe - the car would flat spot and not rev or go any faster. Now it bloody a responsive and different beast and it going to sound stupid but the engine tone has changed and I have an understanding of what "Good Sounds Like". The slightest movement of the throttle and the car is responsive.
All the things I did in desperation and panic were:
1. Changed fuel pump
2. Checked the Tappets
3. Checked the compression (burnt valve scenario or worn engine)
4. Rebalanced the carbs and checked the throtlle range and adjusted the choke
5. Made the carbs richer
6. Doubted the my Electronic Ingnition - even when and purchased a set of points.
7. Thought it was fuel quality and not having octane boost
8. Prayed to the god of cars and watched YouTube on how to use a Strobe (Bought an expensive one with as many options as the Wife washing machine)
The thing i learnt is dont change too many things at once, go for a test run after a change then reflect.
John
Had a similar experince fitting Amal Conventric carbs to a vintage car, the oe SUs seemed to have gone porous not surprising at nearly 90 years old.
We jumped in all guns blazing and flooded the carbs even with the pump dialled back to 2 psi.
Then it was fit an SU float bowl between the carbs but that didnt work it kept running out of fuel. Forgot the Amals had there own floats.
Next it was remove the Amal floats and set the float height of the SU bowl at the same as the Amals, still didnt work under load.
Played with the jetting of the Amal but again under load no luck.
In the end it was to treat it like a motorbike and gravity feed the carbs and revert everything back to standard.
This was done by building a header tank that used a SU float to set it level and gravity feed the carbs from the bottom of the tank.
Tank is supported on the radiator brace rod and the bulkhead support so easily removable to revert the car back to normal SUs
Car runs a treat -
Hi Graham welcome to the forum.
Many of us use the more common Herald body parts (dont tell the Herald guys).
By this I mean complete sections.My Mk2 Convertible is in similar if not worse condition but Heralds a getting thin on the ground in NZ.
Adrian
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It is a clever alternative.
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Looking at that link Badwolf posted a Cattle Unit is also called an Animal Unit or AU
AU is used as the internet code for Australia.
It is also a model of Ford Falcon built in Melbourne Australia.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Falcon_(AU)#:~:text=The Ford Falcon (AU) is,the luxury-oriented model range.
Down the road in Port Melbourne was where the Australians assembled Triumphs at the Fishermans Bend plant
https://pocketozmelbourne.com.au/lost-fishermans-ami.htmlAU is also the symbol for gold which has very little to do with any of my Triumphs
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My Vitesse 6 gearbox leaks happily on the level no need for this fangled jacking.
Diff did the same till I replaced the incorrectly fitted nose seal.
I am worried as the engine doesnt leak oil and sounds far too quiet.😟😉 -
15 hours ago, PeteH said:
I will add. Any Male who needs to go more that once or twice a night, and who had not had his Prostate checked, would be advised to make effort to have it done ASAP.
.........
Pete
Except when you snore like a Triumph bike with straight pipes get up to pee, drink a large glass of water because your throat is dry and sore, get up to pee drink a large glass of water because your throat is dry and sore, get up........................
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In have a 13/60 bulkhead (NZ assembled) on my Vit 6 and there was a hole for the cable.
IIRC it is the same or close to NMs photo -
On 05/07/2022 at 10:14, johny said:
The only time Ive seen arrows on headlamps is to show dip side as in RHD or LHD...
Photos of arrows at the top of Lucas branded headlights, this is the H4 lens
And yes it also has the dip side pointing arrow.
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And here was me thinking they where to allow more air to access the rear carb after the front one sucks all the air that comes in the font tubes.
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Shame we dont have a jealous or envious emoji
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This is a link to my latest Triumph based 3D print.
I have attached the file here for others to copy if they wish, no guarantee it will work for you.
If you want to print one for a 7 inch headlight then just scale it up in you slicer software -
My solution
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Headlight recess alignment tool.
The new Lucas headlight lens locating legs do not line up with the recesses in the mounting rings on my Vitesse 6.
I decided I need to know where vertical was on the mounting rings as the lens has an arrow pointing up which I assume is vertical.
As it is two circles one bigger than the other I thought about cutting it out of mdf or ply but do not have a holesaw the right size and can never cut good circles with a jigsaw. I decided to 3D print it and designed it on Fusion 360 and after several false starts printed this with PLA. The PETG has absorbed moisture so wasnt laying down well. I added a horizontal surface for a level/bevelbox and 4 notches 90 degrees apart starting at the top
A bit of filing down the inner circle diameter and it is a snug in 3 out of 4 headlight rings, the 4th seems to be a slightly wider lip.
Take a reference level from the top of the bonnet across the peaks, set the bevel box to zero and this will give me my reference top and bottom marks on the ring.
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I am checking the headlights for level (horizontal vertical not intensity)
The lenses have a wee arrow that points to the top, if I pass a line vertically down the glass should this be a vertical reference that I could use with a spirit level or such like?Thanks
Adrian -
Thanks for the replies.
Dont have the option of car specific for these headlights in NZ.
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Damn sorry about the double post.
Mods feel free to delete this one
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Anyone else experience issues with fitting semi sealed Lucas H4 and H1 headlights to their Vitesse?
I am having issues with the headlight mounting tabs lining up with the cutouts in the mounting rings.
Nothing a Dremel wont fix but interested if others have had this problem. -
Anyone else experience issues with fitting semi sealed Lucas H4 and H1 headlights to their Vitesse?
I am having issues with the headlight mounting tabs lining up with the cutouts in the mounting rings.
Nothing a Dremel wont fix but interested if others have had this problem. -
36 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
many triumph wsm do not have a pub date
all before the days of simple traceability and audits on who did what and when
Pete
That is one of the problems these days with online product catalogues produced by maunfacturers.
They change items and there is no history to them where printed catalogues you could keep the past issue and have an ability tomback reference.
I have noticed this mainly with oil companies who seem to change oil specs every 6 months.
Rant over and hope it made sense
Standard starter v hi torque type
in Electrical System
Posted
I fitted the Isuzu starter motor to my Vitesse 6 and the first time i spun the motor with it I thought I had lost compression on all cylinders.
I had to do a compression test to check and nothing wrong with the compressions.
It is that good and was very well priced.
https://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm