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ahebron

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Posts posted by ahebron

  1. Here is a bit more info from

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Humberstone

    Humberstone's first car design as a 19 year old was the 1965 Scorpion Sovereign. There were three models made. The 1600cc engined 616M and 616MS, and the 2 litre powered 620M. The car had a Triumph Vitesse drivetrain and a Williams & Pritchard body. Humberstone was approached by Tom Gratrix of Bond cars and later found out the Gratix had used designer Trevor Fiore to restyle the Scorpion by making it into a fastback. Bond then produced it as the Bond Equipe 2 litre without Humberstone's consent. This resulted in Humberstone successfully suing Bond.

    and more here

    https://www.rapport-forte.com/timeline/scorpion-sovereign-616m-616ms-620m/

    Yesterday I could access the facebook page and today I would have to sign in.

     

  2. On 24/09/2022 at 19:44, johny said:

    I just hope the replacement bearing was as good quality as the one thrown away🙁

    FAG

     

    15 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    dont forget it might be the rear wheel bearing 

    Pete 

    I will swap tyres front to rear first but yes that is an option

  3. I do like it, it has a touch of Gilbern.

    Pete could be correct if the following is true

    https://z-upload.facebook.com/classicandrecreationsportscars/posts/1936506969860078

    Scorpion Car Company
    Chris Humberstone's first car design was the 1965 Scorpion Sovereign available in three models:
    616M & 616MS with a 4-cyl Triumph 1596cc engine and the 620M 6-cyl-1998cc Vitesse engine with bodywork by Williams & Pritchard.

    Bond cars commissioned designer Trevor Fiore to restyle the Scorpion by making it into a fastback. Bond then produced it as the Bond Equipe 2 litre without Humberstone's consent, who successfully sued Bond.

    http://slatford.co.uk/Car Pictures Pages/Scorpion.htm

    • Like 1
  4. Yesterday I replaced the left front wheel bearing on my VW Amarok due to noise when cornering to the right, loading the left side of the car.
    Test drove it and noise still there😰
    I will swap rear to front tyres when it stops raining next week to see if that changes the noise.
    At least a wheel bearing kit was cheaper than a new tyre and my time is free.

  5. 9 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

    Good luck finding a T-shirt plate position that allows you a propshaft and exhaust. Also note the the FEA analysis didn’t rate a single T-shirt plate as a worthwhile addition.  A double (top and bottom of the main rails) T-shirt does better, but is utterly impractical.

    Nick

    I stand corrected.

    Nick are you referring to a similar H frame as the Spitfire /GT6

  6. Cant recommend a supplier as I am a wee bit away from you but I would go with the ratchet type that pull in and lift the wheel.

    I have three different sets of wheel dolly
    1st I made myself out of 1" galv pipe into box section tees making a square with castors on each corner, these were used on a car that the tyres didnt matter.
    2nd is a set of 4 ratchet type that are great as you do not need to raise the car to fit them, these live under my Vitesse 6 with the scissor hoist.
    3rd set are pressed steel curved that the wheel sits but you need to jack the car up to use them and the castors catch on stuff on the floor.

    So my recommendations are go for whatever dolly suits you but make sure the castors are free running and big enough to not jam on shrapnel that gets on your garage floor.

     

    • Thanks 1
  7. Never ever pressure wash an engine, it can lead to all sorts of issues especially with modern vehicles.
    As Pete says a good spray cleaner then wash with water.
    Modern engines tend to have places that water can pool and stay so I go over with a low pressure air line to blow the water out that doesnt go with running the engine.

  8. It doesn't matter what bulbs you have if you are not getting the correct voltage then you are wasting money.
    As Paul H stated he has fitted relays which with a decent sized feed cable from the battery/alternator will improve your lights output.
    1 relay, 2 relays or 4 relays it is your call how easy or complicated you want to make it
    Also make are the earth cables are up to the job,(I make it the same size as the battery/alternator feed) do not rely on using the bonnet as a return path as it can have many corroded points of contact with the rest of the car.
    Interestingly the side light/indicators on the Vitesse/Herald rely on the bonnet to earth the lamp. I welded a stud to the back of the lamps on my Vitesse and have run a cable to earth them.

    • Like 1
  9. Hi Robin
    I  might not be reading this correctly but you do not use seals with 'bubbles' on the small chassis Triumphs. 
    The seal should be more like a crooked finger.
    Many on here will tell you to get them from but IIRC it is COH Baines.
    The bubble seal will not allow the door to close correctly and could be the source of your problem.

    I am happy to be corrected if I am wrong.

    Adrian

  10. Today I made three lead hammers but only ended up with two finished ones.
    After a bit of research I came to the conclusion that a lead hammer is the best thing for fitting centre spinners on vintage car wire wheels. A bit more research and they cannot be bought  in NZ. Most likely something to do with them being lead.
    A mechanic friend donated his box of old wheel weights and as it for my parents car they picked up a stainless steel pot from an op shop and a spoon with holes in for cleaning the dross off the lead.

    My dad had a bit of a moment when the hose would not connect between the gas cooker and bottle but it turned out to be left hand thread.
    Started by filling the pot with all the dirty wheel weights and setting the camping stove to high and watch some of the weights start to melt, it turns out not all wheel weights are lead. The stick on mag wheel ones are a ferrous metal that like the magnet so easy to lift out of the pot. This halved my mass of weights

    My first mould was an tomato sauce refill tin of about 550ml capacity. I hole punched a 25mm hole in the side about midway up. The handle is a 300mm x 25mm length of galv pipe that roller doors spin on which I plugged about 50mm in and I cross drill 2 x 8mm holes so the lead would pour through to help the handle stay in place. This hammer looked impressive but at 6kg was deemed to heavy but a good first attempt. It was melted down
    A ginger spice tin and Colmans Mustard tin (rectangle) were the next 2 moulds and these had the same handle treatment with one using the 6kg hammer handle.
    These two came out at nearly 3kg each so everyone should be happy. I am coating the lead hammer with rustoloeum leak paint that provides a rubber type coating.
    i am happy with the results and while this method is sacrificial for the moulds but I cannot see myself making anymore of these.
    When working with the lead I had a full face 3m mask that I bought when I was grinding lead out of a car body prior to welding panels, I had cotton overalls and welding gloves when pouring. The garage door was open for a through draft and I had a fan on full. IMG_6620.thumb.jpg.36a6e7742ada7b848ae6c570da1920a1.jpgIMG_6622.thumb.jpg.e48beaccca619ac02b436638f5bb97bb.jpgIMG_6624.thumb.jpg.5b45df48156efd1d0e653a0f547563cf.jpgIMG_6613.thumb.jpg.2654ded567f2e6a426c909c7910d0d3e.jpgIMG_6614.thumb.jpg.8b205aa813c089889d95a25879791017.jpgIMG_6615.thumb.jpg.cf3f54b6eff4839b8a62272fba6d1bcc.jpgIMG_6619.thumb.jpg.4ed5cd15041e787ee912cae2a97d73f6.jpg

  11. On 24/08/2022 at 22:17, s99sdp said:

    Wow! It looks like I'll be under my car for quite a while.

     

     

    I did have the advantage of removing the body from the chassis so it made work relatively quick and easy.
    Though picking the wires that fly off from the the wire wheels out of everything that wasn't covered wasn't quick nor easy.

  12. Asking about underbody protection is like asking what oil or what tyres to use so tread carefully.
    But a bit of advise I have is if you clean the underside back to bare metal with a wire wheel or suchlike then go over it all by hand with a 60 grit scourer. The wheels will remove the paint etc but then will polish the metal, the 60 grit will give a surface that will hold the particular product you are applying a lot better than the wire wheeled one.

    • Like 1
  13. Funny that.
    Here in NZ we have BOC (formerly NZIG) and they had the market for many years.
    They charged bottle owners a small fortunefor refills then deemed allprivately owned bottles dangerous and unable to be refilled forcing owners to rent from them.
    Competition came in and amazingly the  competition said we were able to keep our bottles as long as they got tested every 10 years and they can fill them as well. I can get replacement oxy/acetylene, tig and mig 7 days a week from the local Bunnings.
    It took BOC many years of customers walking away to realise what was going on and now they do bottle swap deal but I am not  going back.
    I buy there welders and plasma cutter but not gas anymore.

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