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Posts posted by Colin Lindsay
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They don't call them worry gauges for nothing.... ignorance is bliss but once you have one, you can't stop watching it as you drive along... sort of a car-hypochondria! I found the voltmeter much less bother to fit than an ammeter, but as long as the ammeter is fitted with the correct and often heavy gauge of electric cable it should be ok, provided as Clive says it's sufficiently highly rated to cope with the extra power and show an accurate reading.
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Hello Wayne.
If you can go for the Goodridge stainless steel hoses - a tad more expensive than normal flexi hoses but MUCH better; plus of course you get a firmer pedal response.
Regards.
Richard.
...but they still require replacement at regular intervals; the interior rubber perishes just as any hose does. Some people think they're a permanent once-in-a-lifetime upgrade!
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Too many people try to slide them on from one end, this won't work. Hook them over the top edge in the position you require them then lie underneath and hook the underside in place while you, if possible, press or pull down on the top edge - or get someone else to push them down for you as you work underneath. Lubricate with wet freshly sprayed Waxoyl as you go. The greasier, the easier, as they say.
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It's stuck!! Make sure you're pressing the ball-bearing fully in, but otherwise lots of penetrating oil and a good firm pull with a bit of wiggling - holding both the cable and the knob - should do it. It's seized on after a few years, no doubt. Don't break it!!
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Thankfully my sets all came with metal and wire reusable filters but I know Speedograph filters come up on eBay from time to time. Just keep searching 125 and you'll find some. Hillman Imp clubs may have access to a source.
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SimonBBC sold Delco items on eBay, I know he sells electronic ignition for the 200.
I got my GT6 version rebuilt by H&H and it's superb, but cost around £160.
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If the fuel isn't leaking out of the bottom of the carbs then it's running back down the fuel line and having to be primed again before starting - this is why some older pumps have a priming handle so you can pump the fuel manually before cranking the starter. How old is your fuel pump? Perished valves may allow the fuel to drain back faster than normal; try another pump and see if it improves. I don't know if there's an in-line non-return valve available anywhere but cranking on full choke (short bursts of the starter) should get the fuel back to the carbs although as Aidan says after a few seconds.
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Those felt cups have been mis-sold for years - it's about time certain suppliers realised we want the proper items, not something made to fit by grinding shaving and greasing. We need to start returning them as unsuitable, not making-do ourselves. NOS ones are becoming hard to find but always fitted like a dream.
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Don't bake high temperature paint in the oven; it may cure nicely but smells for weeks afterwards.
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Each to his own as so many posters have said, but I got fed up with so many Club cars sporting the same Minilite replicas that it almost seemed like a requirement when buying a Triumph. I love the bling of chrome hubcaps and have them on all my cars now.
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I haven't dealt with them in an age but still have an old thank-you note they sent me when I wished them well on a premises move many years ago; I remember being impressed they had taken the time to write back.
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wear googles.
Just the thing for google eyes....
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A chin spoiler improves things significantly.
Apparently there's a chin spoiler called 'Dirty Bird." Ever searched for that term on the Internet and then tried to explain?
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The long trip across the boot edge? (Spitfire?)
Just pull... but firmly and gently at the same time, you don't want to crease it. Most of the trim was originally held on with clips that dig into the metal, but some have been replaced with mastic in recent years. (which means you're more likely to pull the entire bootlid off than the trim.)
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Yes, the bearings are available
I read somewhere that if you have one of the original units it's better to get them rebuilt as they last a lot longer Can someone confirm?
ThxYes; the bearings are readily available today from various companies; if you remove the old ones you'll see the part number around the edge and you can cross-reference it with modern parts easily enough. The seal can sometimes be hard to find but there was a seller selling them on eBay a while ago. The internals are all brass, including the impeller and there is a grease nipple so they should in theory last a lot longer than repro items.
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Outside on the bulkhead, to the right of the battery box as you're looking at the car from the front. I can't photograph mine as I used a J-type which doesn't use a relay, but I remember it from my MK3.
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Prices vary, and you'll always find something on sale cheaper than the one you've just bought - but only afterwards. I always preferred something around the middle of the price range: solid, dependable and suitable for improvement, unlike cheap basket cases which too often turn out to be beyond repair or high-priced supposedly 'finished' cars, which often aren't.
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And if your shoulders touch both B posts when in the driver's seat... you've pulled a bit too hard...
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Treat it as a service item and expect to get about two years out of it; they rust like billy-o. 'Sealed for life' therefore means about 24 months these days, so no need to regrease... the grease will last longer than the metal parts.
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Looking at the gearbox I can see GR as well as what looks like FC; overstamping is usually a sign that it's been overhauled - is it possible this has been an early Spitfire gearbox that was already refurbished; this may explain the better acceleration from the sportier box when compared to the standard gearbox you've now fitted.
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Obviously there were a lot of unwanted cars, and the owners decided to get rid of them this way. The small-ads are still full of similar cars that sell, or sometimes don't, so they decided it was less hassle than bartering with tyre kickers or time wasters. If these cars were released for sale, how many of them would actually sell? It's a nice dream, to save as many of our cars as we can, but in reality who is going to do it?
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I had both my Triumph rads recored to three row a few years back; the company used a modern design of core which they told me was more efficient. I hadn't had any cooling problems before that, but decided it could only help guard against overheating and with a good working thermostat there'd be no danger of overcooling. I don't know if Triumph used two row rads as that was the only thing available, or because it was cheap, but it was only core damage that prompted me to change. A good well-flushed original radiator would probably be efficient enough, but I just took the personal choice of going for the uprated core when I had the opportunity. I don't think the extra coolant capacity makes much difference but the increased area for air flow cooling can only help.
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You can fit single or double speakers under the dash; the original fitment was a single speaker in a one-piece unit incorporating the head unit but other period units come up on eBay from time to time. There is enough room and sufficient cutouts to fit flat-profile speakers in the door trims (flat profile behind so the magnet doesn't foul anything) plus you can also attach pod units to the saloon rear shelf. Make sure they're bolted down as you don't want them to fly loose in a sudden stop situation and clunk the back of your head...
friendly warning white gt6
in General
Posted
I always loved it when the boy racers would pull up alongside my GT6 and make it clear they wanted a race... they just got the polite version of 'get stuffed' as I pulled away sedately and let them get on with it. Too many years of Landrover driving have left me very happy at 55 - 60 mph. Or was it too many near misses as a young driver?