Colin Lindsay
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Posts posted by Colin Lindsay
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says its all down to hard work and a whisky every morning and evening....think i like the whisky idea best
Pete
If you drink 36500 whiskies at the rate of one a day you'll live to be 100 years old.
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You can buy any radiator from any scrappie which will fit with a bit of fettling.....
Got mine recored for £100 with a modern uprated core, as long as the top and bottom header / footer sections are reusable they can fit the core in-between to look like the original.
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Don't worry - I've found you a repair panel online....
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Doug,
The seal is in two parts, wit a metal pressing as retainer. Cut the seal in two parts and the retainer the other way, to get them off and on without removing the column.
And, Pete, Colin Steve, are you stuck in the Ice (or in this case, Tropical) Age? Foam rots, especially when heated and exposed to hydocarbons, used heat proofing originally shaped for a completely different car, and fixation of heat-proofing itself. How many times, how loudly can I say, IT'S LEAKS THAT CAUSE EXCESS HEAT!
Underbonnet heat shield panels from modern cars aren't foam; they're usually some form of composite - don't ask me which exactly - but many come as a flat panel attached to the underside of the bonnet by plastic studs. Easy to remove, trim and mould over the gearbox tunnel; not to an exact moulded shape but still close enough to replace the carpet and not notice that it's there. The carpet and some adhesive holds it in place. I put my hand on my gearbox tunnel and it's warm through the existing material, so that's not a leak, it's conduction? Warm air blowing through gaps under the tunnel cover will get hot air into the cabin as you say, but anything else that can be removed from the equation can only be a bonus, especially when stationary in traffic.
Why use anything other than adhesive silver foil? Because it's ******** expensive and anyone on a lower budget might be looking for a cheaper, and almost as good, option. I can only suggest a few alternatives...
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Think its pretty std that on non rotaflex that when jacked the shaft rubs the chassis seen this on many
Happens on many of our cars if they're jacked under the chassis, the axles rest on the chassis and any turning of the wheels to replace brakes etc marks the shaft lightly. As Pete says it won't happen on the road, or shouldn't unless you do a lot of airborne driving.
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Go to a local scrappie and get modern car sound or heatproofing; many just throw it away so it sells for pennies. Waterproof and heatproof and easily trimmed. The more modern the car it comes from, the better it should be... so look for a good recent accident damaged model to pinch it out of.
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The seller has responded with a link to an album of photos, which sadly don't really tell me much! I'd love to find out how this conversion was done, how it drives, and what the pitfalls were... but we'll have to wait for the new owner to tell us. If there is one.... some of the photos are less than appealing, especially those of the underside.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s76d2kv1q8uikzh/AABa98E05tx1rb5wylc7bH-da?dl=0
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No Tom, no reply. He seems happy to talk to prospective buyers but no answer to technical questions; maybe it's because I have no intention of buying but am merely interested in how it was done... although I didn't say that....
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I did message the seller asking for him to make contact so I could find out the finer details, but to date no reply.
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I've contacted the seller asking how it was done, and asking for more detailed photographs, but he hasn't made contact. Anyone know this car? I always thought there were structural and chassis problems caused by the auto box which required modifications to the main rails etc? I remember looking at a fire-damaged Dolomite 1300 back in the early 1990s and asking if the automatic gearbox could be used in Heralds, but being told there were too many problems to overcome simply.
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How long ago? I bought a stainless pair at the International in the early 1990s, and never saw any others until last year on eBay. Were yours made that long ago, Paul?
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The bottom of the surround sits on the front valence and is secured by small bolts into caged nuts; however any similar sized self-tapper will do and you can use modern car plastic trim clips which will push into the caged and work like a rawl-plug.
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I remember confusing someone a few years ago by asking how Beetle owners flushed their radiator when their engine used no water...
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Not sure why you suffered with noise/vibration, mine hasn't. Same with my Toledo...
Wooden steering wheel! It had always transmitted road noise straight through my fingers, however, the difference was amazing when the solid joint was fitted and became really uncomfortable, so even with a replacement padded wheel I still went back to the old joint. I have one or two NOS ones bought from Stoneleigh over the years to fit when the current ones fail.
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I used the solid joint once and went straight back to the original. Sometimes I find that retailers extol the virtues of replacement parts over the originals simply because it's what they sell. Too much road noise and vibration transferred up the column. Keep your eye on eBay or specialist suppliers like Mick Dolphin for an original replacement.
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Remove the spark plug and push a length of rope into the chamber while the piston is at the lowest point - feed it in until the chamber is full then turn the engine over. This may help push the head up and off while damaging nothing.
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Wing nuts are a good idea, never thought of that!!
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I have had similar problems with a dampish garage, and over the years have found that the most important thing is ventilation. Normal up and over garage doors tend to have gaps at the top and sides, but I would also recommend putting a ventilation panel in the side door, if you have one. This then means you can get a through draught.
Put a grille in the wall opposite the doors, the air will blow straight through taking the moisture with it. One of those sealable ones means you can open or close the vent as required.
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The wiper motor is permanently live, with the current broken by the park mechanism or the switch. Even if you wire it back to front - as I've done - this melted the loom and the motor was ok afterwards. I'd be surprised if merely reconnecting it while switched on has caused any serious damage; it may be just the mechanism sticking, especially the wiper cable mechanism which can sometimes stick at a point where it doesn't want to go backwards or forwards. Remove the motor from the wiper assembly and make sure the wipers themselves are moving smoothly under hand pressure. Once you get them moving freely again the motor might just start to work normally.
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I haven't read it in years but always felt that eventually they were going to run out of material... I never thought that meant the actual paper!
(and Lord I remember Izal bog paper... forerunner to Teflon I think.)
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You can still find radio pods / consoles on eBay, if a good period 1960 / 1970s one comes up they look the part. Mini ones are quite easy to find and have good supports attached for mounting to the underside of the dash:
You can also find stainless steel, brushed steel or black modern versions available on eBay:
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I'm just about to try cleaning a modern matrix that blows warm air to the screen but cold (freezing!!) air to the feet... I suspect the lower half of the matrix is full of crud. Flaps are working as you can feel the air to the feet stop when switched to screen. Flusher hasn't improved anything so it's the long thin wire approach next. If the Herald heater isn't working I'll agree it's a blockage of some sort, start with the valve, work along the pipes and finally try the matrix.
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Never mind the spring or the spring buttons, I need the clamps and bolts that hold them all together... are these readily available for Herald springs?
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You can buy shrouds for the front, to direct more air through the radiator core. One for the fan might be interesting, it would protect the fingers when running but no idea if it would be more efficient or not... you wouldn't want to block any air from the core as you'd cancel out any cooling gains made by channelling more air through the restricted space. If the air is being drawn through the core you want it to escape readily, so any shroud would need to allow a good flow of air once it's cleared the fan.
Cylinder head off, seeking advantageous executions.
in Engine
Posted
....and a new head after inexperienced use of a Dremel....
It's been done!