Adrian
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Posts posted by Adrian
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Hi all
I don't suppose anyone has a spare throttle spindle sleeve lying around for a Mk 3 GT6? I'm wanting to get my linkage set up a little more standard basically a 7mm ID and 5/16 OD. I have ordered some brass tubing but if I can get an original part, all the better.
Thanks
Adrian
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My 1980 mini is absolutely packed full of character but absolutely no mod cons. I probably fill 3/4 of the width of the car, can't get abouve 45 mph (but working on that) but have the biggest smile on my face and frequently big smiles from onlookers. Never going to win a rally but a winner for me! In reality a well kept modern can tick your boxes but realistically it will rarely live up to expectations, especially at 19 years old and marketed as the wrong model. Buyer beware! At 19 years you are entering the realms of modern classic and all that comes with it, the more complex the more to go wrong (especially beyond basic mechanics).
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Based on the gt6 and vitesse workshop manual the small slot in the face of the brass insert is an original feature to allow the removal of the seal. Maybe like mars bars as time has gone on everything is getting smaller!
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Just a quick check. The replacement spindle seals do not fill the cavity of brass holder. It does carry the spindle firmly when inserted. Is that ok?
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Hi Doug
I decided to go to Burlens direct, maybe the Rimmers kits are actually more complete hence the higher price. Disappointed in Burlens as they are supposed to be No 1. The kit I got was their CDRK8.
Just by way of update, I drifted out the old jet this morning using an appropriately sized socket and used a long socket on the rear of the new jet to drift in the replacement. Got it to 102 thou of the 100 though spec, not sure if I should try to get to the 100 thou, could be a lot of back and forth!
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Doug I saw the sprag, the video on the 175 rebuild showed him removing it to get to the o ring. Very good video. As I haven't got them in the kit either I might see what condition they are in to re-use.
So a drift to knock out and the old one to knock the new one in with?
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Considering its a complete rebuild kit then it should be included, they charge enough.
Onto the Jet, how tight are they? My vice doens't open far enough to do the 'socket' pressing, do they need some heat to expand the alloy (I'd have thought any heat would preferentially expand the brass!). Would it be best to take it to the garage?
Cheers
Adrian
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Following on with another question. There is an o ring at the base of the dash pot to prevent too much loss of oil . The rebuild kit doesn’t have a replacement so how do I know if I need a new one, how long should a top up of oil last, I don’t think I’d get more than 50 odd miles
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My contribution is.....cheapest piece of metal you can buy from screwfix. I've got DIY tools that I specifically used for DIY construction and lasted for a very long time. Found out very quickly that an expensive tool still has (I think) a duty load that if continuously used will burn out. Whilst stripping the underside of the car I burnt out a drill using a wire brush and the same with an angle grinder. Short periods, high quallity tools last. Long periods, view them as disposable so buy cheap. If you have access to a power supply....why cordless?
One of my dewalt batteries for my drill has given up the ghost after 20 yrs.... things just aren't built to last!!
But to clarify Chris and Mathew, if you are going to use for hard and long periods, cheap, but standard duty loads go for quality...BUT...I have to say the Titan range at screwfix has been a real workhorse for me and so far has not let me down for a basic tool!
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I heard Turnips are swedes and swedes are turnips from a Geordie!
I got my webbing from Skiddaw Upholstry and re-used the original clips
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Sorry for the rambling on but to put it simply get rid of the extension and shorter spindle and use the standard spindle supplied in the kit and with a needle change will be back to GT6 spec?
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That’s it above the temp compensator slot.
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Getting confused here as there seems to be a real mix and match going on. Carb tabs are CD150SE, spindle is closer to CD150SEV (based on the Burlens rebuild kit) BUT Burlens don't list a 124mm double ended spindle. The needle is B5DG which is for a 2000 running 150CD-3's. An earlier picture of the carbs are below and as can be seen the throttle linkage appears to be standard so I am asking myself if I've got a CD150SE rebuild kit and the carb body is standard between the models concerned then.......can I use the supplied spindles and make it standard OR are they actually CD-3's? Or has a PO just used an extender on the end of a shorter spindle?
Might be the photo but choke connector pipe is there, check the second photo. As far as I can see the extender and what appears to be a stop tab on the left of the right hand carb doesnt actually do anything?
So whilst they are the wrong needles and a possible adapted spindle have I got it right? That way the carb tags would be correct then.
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It's the throttle linkage to the other carb.
I have noticed the carb closest to the front of the car seems to have the choke on it but not on the rear one. No other gismo other than the temperature compensators. Just for completeness the float bowl just has a tiny bit of sediment in it. I think based on history file the car has done about 10,000 miles in the last 31 years. Looking at the video's of people rebuilding carbs this seems pristine (based on burnt on crud).
I'm curious to know why there doesn't seem to be any documentation for the SEV, its only mentioned in the back of the Haynes stromberg manual.
The two pictures are for the front carb, not yet dismantled.
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My carb tags are 3432L and R which are 150CD-SE. However thats not the spindle, the spindle fitted is for a 150CD-SEV which I think refers to a vent somewhere. Burlens said the only difference to the kit is the one spindle, so either a PO modified the ancillaries to the later kit or the tags must be wrong? Anyone know of an identifing feature of an SEV or indeed what the actual difference is?
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Rang Burlen and it turns out that the Carbs date from a change in spindles. Now at a dilema, got a justified reason to send back, got slight wear on the spindle but not massive by Pete's account. You'd expect this carb to have worn the same amount as the unchecked one (as only supposed to dismantle one at a time!). Or just go ahead and rebuild everything?
Doug the kits a full rebuild with jets and needles as well.
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Why is nothing straight forward! Tried the spindle pretty much the same level as play as the old one BUT one of my spindles has a thread on both ends, the kit doesn’t?
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So do you think the bushes are ok? Got a new spindle anyway.
What would you do in terms of TLC?
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Definitely 100 thou, 0.1” or 2.4mm
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Just trying a direct download from my iPhone rather than through the pc. That’s the problem. By the way the face isn’t exactly scratch free but assume the gasket should take care of that?
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yep only started looking at one carb. Pretty clean inside. Not taken the jet out or stripped the needle yet. Can't quite tell but doesn't look completely round to me although doesn't look oval either?
Hopefully the video works although I have my doubts (I used to be able to upload but now they don't seem to want to play) - NO tried it and it won't play ggrrr annoying. The spindle shows some movement in the bush (the spindle rubber seal offers no resistance when slotting in so is probably a source of air leakage so i think that definately needs replacing). I can feel a very slight slimming of the spindle but no pronounced ridge. The temperature compensator seal was hard and pretty useless.
So actually at least for this one not much to clean. I checked with Burlen and the jet is pressed in from the bottom and set 100 thou below the bridge.
So first things first is a good clean and then see whats what.
Adrian
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Hi Pete
Yes I have read the Buckeye thread and also this recent youtube addition from Midwest Motoring
which I thought was very helpful in a) understanding how things work and b) the methodology/effort needed for dissasembly, etc, again for a 175.
They have done 3 videos on dissassembly and assembly in June 2020. I might make a start this afternoon.
Adrian
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Hi all
Just taken the carbs off and as an initial check gave a waggle to the Throttle spindles. Basically can feel a very slight movement so perhaps the spindle and or the o rings are worn. As Burlens also said the jet/needles were probably worn I have a set of these and these need to be pressed out. I've seen the videos on the needle lock, etc. but so far have not seen one for pressing out and pressing in the fixed jet. I'm guessing its a similar process to replacing bushes (strong vice and appropriate socket?). Going to try to get is sorted this week if I can, all sorts of little fiddly washers and seals but am resisting opening the bag just in case anything gets missplaced in the mean time!
Also whilst taking off I noticed the bottom of the throttle linkage bracket (that bolts onto the block) was quite loose. The very bottom link is a rivetted joint, is this a potential problem, can a quick controlled hammer tighten it up or does it need re-rivetting, or indeed leaving alone?
Adrian
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Can I ask a daft question. As I am about to embark upon a 150 rebuild i was wanting to know why all the discussion about springs, damper oil and needles. As a standard carb, wouldn't a standard rebuild with normal components rectify any running issues or is it because of ported manifolds, exhausts, cams, etc altering original design principles?
Adrian
Throttle spindle sleeves
in Parts Wanted
Posted
In fear of replying to my own post. Bought a 5/16 od brass pipe, slotted it and fits perfectly although have to wait for re-assembly to be sure!