Adrian
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Posts posted by Adrian
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I used them to refurb the dials in the mini pod, new bezels, fix the mile counter, internal clean etc together with the two small dials about £90 as I recall.
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I got one for the triumph and TBH waste of money (could be user error) but basically made the mixture way too lean. Could be because I needed 2 for simultaneous tuning of both carbs. I reset the jet/needle with the method Pete showed us and left it at that.
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On 03/11/2019 at 11:51, clive said:
Maybe I am being tight, but £400 for a clarke 130A machine sounds a lot. The Rtech are only £480ish, and streets ahead in terms of quality. A Euro torch is nice over a hobby type too.
Have a look around, if you want to keep costs sensible there are often good used migs available, but best to have somebody who has some experience along with you to see if all is well.
The 5mm tips are fine and easily available, been getting mine via ebay for years.
Well...Clive had better be right (no pressure) a new Rtech 180 is being delivered tomorrow. I bought the auto dimming mask as well and Rtech threw in gloves, plug, 5KG wire, tips and argon flow meter. I found out it is worth asking for shop spoiled machines as they will frequently 'do a deal' although as the 180 is so popular they hadn't got any but they still threw in the sweeteners. I really didn't want to spend this much but comments and research seem to indicate that going cheap just leads to poor welds and disappointed users, mainly associated with wire feeds. Once delivered I'm off to hobbyweld. If its anything like the first time I got a jet wash - every loose piece of metal will get welded!
Once I've got over this the next step will be compressor, etc.
Thanks again for all of the advice and help
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Great idea and a wealth of experience covered Pete. My mate, an engineer of 50 + years (still working at 74) is coming around at the weekend to have a butchers so hopefully will get some advice/help as well. I’ll use the tin tray idea to mock up the bracket for the rear seat fitting as well! I wish we wern’t all spread across the nation.
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Started cleaning the area up, looks like a P.O. (probably 30 odd years ago based on history) liberally used joint sealer rather than weld repairs and equally slapped it over and in the now cleaned gap.
looks like it’s more than just a seam!
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Great information all, much appreciated. I did look at the 151 but was put off as it said not suitable with 13a source. I think I’ll keep a look out for a gas setup on eBay! Are there any brands, types to avoid?
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Hi I’ve an olive on mine. Same exhaust setup. Metal pipe
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Hi all. Been doing some reading around and am looking at the Clarke mig130en so can be converted to gas. Any views? Comes to around £400 with mask etc. I’m looking at the hobby mig tips, I assume there are no special bits, etc. Haven’t ordered yet but welcome your views.
Cheers
adrian
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I replaced mine with the first type and has been working brilliantly. Maybe a bad batch?
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Thanks for the info. The lock cleaned up nicely and once everything was straightened and put back together the cap is now usable again.
Re the muck in the back, that was taken immediately on removing the tank so I know a bit more digging / wire brushing may reveal further problems. I think £4-500 is a bit out of my budget, but no doubt a great machine.
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Hi all
I decided to refurb the fuel tank whilst its mostly stripped out to remove the bumper. The tank has external surface rust - nothing significant so will repaint, internally pretty shiny with only minor blemishes BUT I think i'll use POR15 to line the tank for peace of mind in the future.
1) Whilst out I noticed a small gap in the bodywork (floor). The metal is sound both sides so I think it just needs a seam HOWEVER I've never welded and don't own one but am keen to have a go. So any
advice on a machine that will cover car restoration (I understand a gas Mig with a decent low 30Amp or lower minimum would be best for thin bodywork.
The small gap can be seen left of the carpet on the wheel arch.
2) Secondly I assume there must be a grommet to fill in the fuel pipe hole?
3) Fuel filler cap locking mechanism. Basically the key occasionally gets jammed and the actual hinged catch doesn't fully seat/catch so can pop open. I think I need a new lock barrel but they don't seem to be available. Any advice on how to refurb this?
I don't know if I have to extract the roll pin to strip it down or could manage without.
Many thanks
Adrian
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Hello all
I'm not intending to do this but I was wondering, as our cars are getting older and are passing through an increasing number of hands (some of which do thing right and others not) is there any way of testing/checking to see if a head has been converted to unleaded? We see these cars coming up on ebay etc and we only have the PO comment as to what fuel can be used - I was told the Mini was unleaded but I don't know. Obviously I assume a lack of compression could mean a head was not converted but I know that isn't the only reason it could happen.
Just wondering?
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On 19/10/2019 at 08:34, Nigel Clark said:
ACF Howell in Walsall did an excellent job rechroming the rear bumper of my GT6. Cost £290.
Nigel
Just took my rear bumper to ACF £275 +VAT not complete till January, but you know you are getting quality just by talking to them! They pointed out the rippling that I hadn't noticed from previous post re-chroming polishing.
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I think when it comes to rechroming a) best value isn’t necessarily best work as it may only be double plates and b) it’s not cheap. I had my front done at castle chrome in Dudley, they triple plated and did a great job. No receipt, cash so no VAT but still around £300.
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It was probably introduced by management (maybe someone looked at their executive speed boats) whilst the plant was on one of its many strikes!
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Not sure about the herald block but the GT6 is the bolt on the left under the core plug, not a tap at all although I think one would fit so maybe changed at some point. In either case I’d have thought it would be at a similar level.
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Whilst at my local garage they mentioned that one of their clients has a MK3 rolling chassis they were thinking of selling. I haven't seen it (I think my wife would have a fit if another car appeared, we have 6 so far and not enough room for them!). I was wondering if anyone was looking for a project I don't mind having an initial look, unless its a diamond then I might rethink!
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I’ve actually got the same locking nut system on the cv conversion I got from jigsaw. As stated earlier, trial and error to get adequate end float with various shims from Leacey classics but haven’t peened over yet. I was wondering if threadlock might be better to allow removal if necessary at a later date?
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So were the splines damaged as well? Hence them being jammed?
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Are those really the 'Flat' washers that are supposed to be...well....FLAT! They must have been torqued up soooo high at some point.
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It may well be the case that it is over shimmed which allows you to torque up but won’t tighten the taper bearings sufficiently. I didn’t need a puller when I did mine. I shimmed via trial and error until I was happy with the setup, adding 1 thou at a time, I was able to remove hub each time insitu without having to disconnect the brake hose. Uncle Pete will sort you out!
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Thanks as always for the advice. So I ditched the colour tune and reset the needles flush with the piston. What a difference as per the video, taken at full temperature and fast idle set to 850-900 ( difficult as the needle wanders). Even if it runs a little rich it seems so much smoother.
next to continue soundproofing the mini
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Tappets very recently done. Manifold all torqued up when put together last year but will check again. Timing set up with a strobe after rebuild. Synchronised carbs last week when I realised the throttle linkage had actually slipped (somehow). Not actually tried the vacuum balancing with the hose to the ear job. Might reset the needles to see if that improves it and ignore the colourtune setting. I’ll set some time tomorrow to have a go.
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Hi Pete, I sorted the over reving on the choke. When I reattached the cable the clamp twisted the end so the tip was catching the choke cam. I’ve attached a short video of how uneven it is running. I’ve colour tuned it an am getting a blueish burn. Not sure how to get it running evenly, as far as I can tell once warm the only adjustment is the fast idle, pictured.
Cleaning up brake fluid
in General
Posted
Pete you a right, fullers earth is a term used for a range of aluminium silicates (clay particles) that can absorb multiple times their own weight/mass in moisture, kayolinite, montmorillonite, bentonite, etc. Hence the use in cat litter I suppose.