Adrian
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Posts posted by Adrian
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Hi Jeremy
Just checking but I assume you have unplugged the light green and pink wire to photograph it? If not they might not work because of a loose connection?
Cheers
Adrian
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15 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
the base triumph spec is 40 to 60psi at 2000rpm doesnt say hot or cold but safe to assume this is at running temperature
front end noise check its not fan belt they can get very creaky
basic oils can tire with long hot runs a higher quality with good ZZds work well and dont drop off when worked hard
dont think the 60 will be of any improvement most Millers classic is used by many
ive used valvoline VR1 in the Vitesse but club piston eze in the 2000 all very stable
I don't have a problem but for those of us who don't have a gauge, under what pressure conditions does the oil warning light come on or is it only when oil levels drop?
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Levels were good and all rust removed during rebuild I’m pretty sure I need 1 or 2 more thou but wondering how important it is.
one thing I forgot was the clutch was solid and took quite a bit of pedal pressure to separate the clutch plate from the flywheel, is that common when not used?
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Because of last year 2 years possibly longer about 1/3 left.
Another question is diff whine, checked when restoring and all seemed ok, when is it too loud? Also very slight leak in gear box (couple of drops every couple of weeks to a month from the drain plug) on the to do but want to drive it a bit this year first, are there any indicators it needs to be done sooner, like not getting into gear or grinding?
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Hi all, just been out for a 15 mile run. I know I’ve got old fuel and so the running isn’t going to be great but wanted to burn a bit out of the tank before topping up so hopefully the first bit is due to the fuel. What I found was when hot it really didn’t want to accelerate and kangarood and had to put in major revs to keep it moving. Is it just the old fuel or some evaporation, worst after coming to a stop and then starting again.
secondly, wheel shims. Straight line and gentle corners fine but drivers side when turning right only I’ve got a slight rub that disappears once straight, is that a major problem. Can I leave or will wear cause the hub friction to build up heat?
other than that possibly a bit rich with a bit of backfiring but no point till fresh fuel is added.
Adrian
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Not to mention that over tightening of the bolts can lead to distortion of the sealing face. Might be more a sump thing but check face of cover for trueness with a straight edge, if you end up removing.
Thats interesting Nigel I had some wellseal but thought it looked a bit too runny so used my remaining golden hermatite. It would be useful if somewhere on the site we could list good consumables for certain applications!
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Hi Jeremy
I'm assuming MK3 GT6 given your reference to TR6 (GT6) specialist. My car was in a lot worst state than that (I think the rust prevention system (leak) was turned up too high!!), the before picture interestingly shows my bolt heads in the two inner holes and not the outer two. You can see the inner two bolts anchor into the sealing bar (the shiny bar in the third photo (engine bottom to right). I changed the chain and the sprockets, you can see the sprocket teeth are pointed and asymetrical showing wear in the second picture. I'm no mechanic and the GT6 was the first car I've taken apart other than the odd brake piston, but provided you're careful and mark everything, you might surprise yourself, I certainly patted myself on the back when I did it, and when you get lost there's always someone here who can help. I was very nervous that things might turn and throw everyting off but it needs more than a feather touch to move them.
I used a bent nail to retain the tensioner when the cover went back on.
I'd suggest you grab the workshop manual as well.
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+1 for sulzerman. Obviously gravity plays a part in where you might see a leak, especially along seams but it was the sealing bar for me and it is a common problem if original alloy. I did mine with the engine out so can’t comment on ease of doing in situ! Good luck!
Adrian
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Wow, I think this has to be one of the most obscure thread drift I have seen so far. Sill holes to waxes to groundwater contamination, recycling bottles to socks on hands! Are these the 5 ages of triumph ownership? Is all we have to look forward to is sock on our hands I our dotage?
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Hmmm. Got an old bottle on the shelf from when I had my first car. Vauxhall cavalier! Soooo as badwolf said shelf life, would 30 yrs old still be OK? If not, why on earth do I keep stuff like this, before I know it I'll be collecting bent nails in a jar to re-use like my Dad did....and never used!
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Thanks for the comments as always uncle Pete came up trumps. Fortunately only a slight varnish on the needles, quick spray and wipe with carb cleaner and tentatively holds its own now. I’m guessing it’s the old fuel that is causing the lower than expected running. Video is it running at temperature, note the struggle when revs drop.
so can adding fresh fuel clear the varnish from the system (I have a sealed Jerry can, would the fuel be fresh in that?). The tank is just below half full.cheers Adrian
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Hi all, due to one thing and another the car hasn’t moved for a couple of years. Fired it up last weekend and eventually woke upon the choke. Thing is it just doesn’t want to keep going. Got it to start warming up but dies when the choke is off. Was running fine before. Should I put a gallon of fresh in the tank or could it be something else.
cheers
Adrian
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Hi all
Just a quick question, I've rebuilt the MC with a kit from MevSpares and noticed the spring was about 15-20mm longer which I assume may be because the original has compressed over time. Putting it back together and the 15-20mm means the assembly actually has to be pushed in against the spring resistance to be able to get the circlip back on. Is this normal?
Also the kit came with a pouch of grease. Is this for the pushrod ball joint? or dont bother?
Thanks
Adrian
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Gone for metallic red.....yes.....I realise the absolute worst colour for UV damage. I did look at the folding garages after the earlier comments. Anything from £300 machinemart to £800 and above for other suppliers, some with vents so theoretically prevents condensation. But the issue with these is are they really stable enough the withstand the winds we get because failure would result in significantly worse damage than from a cover! I know they talk about ground anchors but .....
Cheers
Adrian
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Hello Hugh,
nice to know there’s another one in the area! I’ve taken mine to Turners (TT Autos) in the past, not classic specialists but are very familiar with classics (the last time I took the mini in it was mot’d by a former rover mechanic). With regard to body shop turners strongly recommended MRH Autos on eastern avenue as one of the best. I don’t think they had any affiliation and am afraid I haven’t used them.
hope that helps
Adrian
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I’m planning on changing my modern and was wondering about using a cover to protect the paintwork as I am working from home most of the time and so it’s not used everyday.
the internet is full of covers claiming to be the ultimate breathable weather proof cover but.........
just wondered if you had any experience, obviously a carcoon is a bit too much faff
cheers
Adrian
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Hi all
Given that the DVLA has flatly refused to provide any history thanks to Data Protection I thought I might take the long shot here
Registration LGC 709K, Triumph White
Bought by me In November 2015 from Steve Brown (Milton Keynes) i think he was StevieB on the forum. He bought the car from Dave Thompson in 2003 who in turn bought the car from Sports Car Supplies in Newcastle on Tyne in 1989/90 who according to the bill of sale restored / repaired the car.
So i have history to 1990. Is it known to anyone?
Cheers
Adrian
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Hello Mike
I think you are asking a tough question here, unless we bought the aston martin at the right time many years ago we will probably always spend more money on our cars that what we may get for them if we sell as ultimately its the tinkering and driving we enjoy. There are many guides for buying classics and always number 1 is rust. Get the best bodywork and paint job you can get. When I bought my car it looked like the car had been driven throught an underseal bath (slapped on very thick). My wanrning is, moisture can work its way behind underseal and rot out even faster, so if undersealed check for soundness. Its easier to change a mechanical part rather than bodywork.
I'd suggest you look on ebay and car and classics to judge asking prices and range of condition. Its a tough one to know what one is worth when YOU have a personal desire, but I'd say you may be able to hagle 5-15% off an asking price (I'm no expert on this aspect!). The club website has an insurance valuation condition list
concours Project
Herald 1200/1250 saloon 1961-70 1147/4 9000 6000 4500 1500
fhc & dhc 1961-67 1147/4 14500 9500 6000 2000
Obviously insurance values are generally higher than actual but not sure by how much (I think there was another thread with information on that)
So it really depends on condition
Good Luck
Adrian
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Nice tool! never thought of that....where's the hacksaw! Fortunately I used an R clip !
Climbing on my head again - hope the physio on my shoulder allows me to lift my arm to test the pushrod
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I used an eazibleed but have since pumped the pedal. If I’m correct to move the fluid reservoir and check for the push rod play I’ve got to tackle that darn Clevis pin!
Classics from Coventry BBC4 9 pm tonight (17/5/21)
in General
Posted
Will set the box to record!!