AidanT

Try Wins International - but you will have to give them a call - Got a few original switches for mine from there

Thanks Clive managed to get one side done For anyone else doing this I needed a 23 mm drill hole to just squeeze my new studs in Just need to get hold of some blanking grommets to close up the hole. Drilled the hole from the back starting with an 8 mm pilot drill. Just had to tidy it up with a file. Thanks

Hi All, An addendum to this subject, I am trying to fit extended 7/16" studs to the rear of my GT6. There is not enough wriggle room to fit the new studs int to the hub and I have been advised that some people have cut a hole in the back plate to allow new studs to be fitted. Can anyone provide any further advice on how / where to cut the hole, I have a good sized steel drill nut don't know where best to cut the hole and from which side and if a pilot should be made first. The option to use a puller to release the hub and make space is one I'd like to avoid if at all possible Thanks Aidan

From the various comments I have seen the cheaper versions that you can find on ebay seem to work fine for the 4 cylinder cars and cause problems in the 6. The cheaper one I originally fitted was binned very quickly, now I have a good quality one added with a full dizzy rebuild and it works brilliantly! Aidan

your not the only one that finds it a true pain in the proverbial Maybe if enough of us complain something will be done about it

Hi - If you are going to change to electronic ignition, just to advise some people have had issues with "Accuspark". There are other options such as "Powerspark" (Yes they are a different company) at the cheaper end, and others such as Aldon (the club supplies) at the better quality end. In my experience you get what you pay for ! Aidan

Not sure if you can see it but its the inner circle before the spokes

For some reason I have failed! The Wheels I have have a thicker wheel wall section toward where they bolt to the hub, so they jamb against my calipers at the front! Don't know if this is standard for sprints but this is the end for this project I think. Anyone wanting some really nice sprint alloys along with the correct 7/16 wheel nuts please let me know! I will add a picture or two whan I'm not using Chrome. Whoever designed this forum may need to look at the ease of adding pictures using this browser! It ain't easy!

Hi I fitted one to my GT6 a year ago and there are two recommendations I can make 1 Put the gauge and piping together connecting to the Tee piece in the engine bay. Run the engine and test for leaks. Better to have a leak and fix it at the gauge end outside of the cockpit, oil and carpet are not a good mix. Once tested use undo at the Tee piece and use cling film to seal the pipe end to do the final fitting 2 Don’t forget the small red fibre washers at each end! 3 Have some cable ties handy. My pipe was far too long so I coiled the excess up in the engine bay and cable tied it out if the way Hope this helps a little Aidan

Hi again, Should have added - I have gone for the 7/16 upgrade! Aidan

Hi, I'm not sure this will help, but I have just purchased some new studs, (although extended ones) From Jigsaw Racing Services. They stated to me that they have the original stud pattern and have them manufactured to it and although I have yet to fit them, they do look like the broken one in your picture Aidan

Finally received the last piece in the kit to do this - Spacers! I did look at universal ones that are probably OK but decided to do the job properly, so I found a company that makes them with the correct PCD called Component Engineering. (You can find them on Eb-y ) They kindly made me a set of 10 mm spacers, they already produce and sell the 3 & 5 mm ones but will do requests for other sizes. So Now to put it all together! Aidan

I tried Accuspark on my GT6, and well lets say I won't be using them, again! I must admit that my dizzy wasn't in the best condition, it had a lot of side way movement in the shaft, but the accuspark unit ran well until the engine got to its normal running temperature and then miss-fired and lost power. I tried an Aldon unit that was recommended to me but had difficulty getting one that would fit my D200. You can get on for around the £100 mark, but I think its a case of getting what you pay for. In the end I had my dizzy rebuilt by H&H ignition Solutions who fitted their own ignition unit. The whole refurb cost £175, and the car is as sweet as a nut Link Below is for the Aldon ignitor - you just need to select the appropriate unit. the second is for H&H http://www.aldonauto.co.uk/shop/prodtype.asp?CAT_ID=39&strPageHistory=category http://www.h-h-ignitionsolutions.co.uk/ Hope this Helps some Aidan

After doing some more reading on this I tried just to realign the door by loosening the top hinge from the post, gently lifting the door with a piece of wood and a scissor jack. Then re-tightening the bolts. Its taken a few goes but the door now closes without problems. Maybe a temporary fix - but I will see how it goes and how long it lasts Aidan

Thanks, I have ordered the pins but if I need to go to th second step can you recommend a supplier? They all seem to be a similar price Thx

OK Thanks I will get some new pins to start. On a practical front can the pins be removed individually whilst the door is in place or is is better to remove the door and hings from the A post first? Also do the pins drift out in either direction or is it better to push them up and out? Thx Aidan

My drivers side door fits reasonably well with even gaps around when closed. When opening however, there is a definite door drop. The door has to be shut hard / slammed to get the catch to fully engage. This seems to slowly be getting worse The questions is do I need to replace the pins? or the whole hinge? or is it a matter of try and see!? Thx

Now purchased the Studs. Although advised that you can grind off after market studs to fit the triumph Chamfer, I have decided to go for the ones from Jigsaw. a bit more expensive but hopefully worth it. Rimmer no longer sell the extended 7/16 wheel studs Aidan

Hi again I am not sure if 0.046" is important, but just to let you know I purchased some nuts from Rimmers in the end. I have measured the sleeves with a micrometer screw gauge which gave a measurement if 0.671" diameter. 5/8" mentioned above is 0.625". I'm not sure if that makes a difference but I thought it best that I mentioned it Regards Aidan

Hi Pete From other comments and my own thought I think the 45 mm studs should be right although again I am having difficulty finding tapered or domed headed ones My calculations are to add the 10 mm length to cover the spacer depth and although the alloy is obviously thicker than the standard wheel, the nuts have a half inch sleeve which will compensate for that Aidan

After a long search, it would seem that these nuts are too specialist to get anywhere but a triumph specialist. I have purchased from Rimmers in the end as they seem to be the cheapest. I have gone for the Steel alternatives as advised

Hi Thanks I have added a question on to the forum Found this on Ebay They look and are described right What do you think? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-FORD-and-other-Cars-7-16-UNF-16-WHEEL-NUTS-5-8-SLEEVE-ALLOYS-/380994713600?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123

Hi, ANyone know where to buy 7/16" Steel wheel nuts with a 13mm Sleeve for the above? Rimmers is very expensive and I have tried quite a few other suppliers but with no luck - They all have a 5/8" sleeve and would have to double up on washers which I don't think is a great idea! Thx