AidanT

If you are looking to purchase a refurbished unit to either fit yourself or get fully fitted then I can recommend Mike Papworth. Great guy and very helpful with aftercare . His details are in the Courier Aidan

On to tescos soda crystals now. Interesting stuff !!! Any way leaving to soak till the weekend. Let's see if that does it By the end of this I should be able to use the engine to make tea!!!

Glad its solved. I also had issues with cheap electronic ignition system off fleabay so can also concur they are a waste of time and money. Aidan

Hi - Given a good long run with Radiator flush in the system yesterday. I will warm up the engine once more tonight and flush out - I will check and see if that has made any difference to the block drain - If not then on to Soda crystals!! Aidan

Sometimes electric motors can have dead points. Not sure on the reason but if you still have it on the bench try tuning it manually 90 degrees at put power to it again. Could be the reason for the intermittent issue.

I have put tad flush in for now but will escalate to soda and then drain cleaner if necessary. I guess that's the way to go. Any thoughts on how long to leave each in? Aidan

I bent an old small screwdriver at a rightangle and put that in the bolt hole itall felt pretty solid all the way around at all depths

Hi Following on from http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/625-gt6-mk1-coolant-capacity/ I have now possibly found the reason for not being able to get coolant from, my block. On taking the thermostat housing off I have found loads of white deposit like that you find in kettles in hard water areas I scraped the majority of it out in lumps (yes it was that bad) I think this is the ressaon I cannot clear the blockage from my block drain Can anyone provide solutions on how to remove hard water scale? All my hoses are new and the radiator is refurbished so I guess I can use something pretty strong to dissolve Thx Aidan

Sorry just reread the above. Will try those or similar. How deep do I have to go in before I get to the water gap? Aidan

Hi. Well back to this now. After being rolling road tuned the car is running hotter. Can you advise what width the wire needs to be to clear the block? I am still struggling to get anything appropriate to clear the blockage. Thx

Have a look at this thread. May help. http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/673-jaeger-fuel-gauge-reading-back-to-front/?fromsearch=1

All Looking again at the position of the top bracket - have decided that in fact it has little or no impact on the alignment of the alternator - Its all on the bottom bracket, the yop one in my opinion just stabilises the alternator. Interestingly and I don#;t know if others have found similar but the belt length needed is the 1150 - the same as the Mk3 belt Well all done and running ignition light working correctly battery charging nicely and fuel gauge has increased! Wonder if it will now read full when the tank is?? That's it for this thread unless anyone else wants co contribute Aidan

If you want to get your original rebuilt I can recommend H&H they did Delco-Remy as it was in quite poor condition - Not had any issues since - Does take them a couple of weeks to turn it around though http://www.h-h-ignitionsolutions.co.uk/ Aidan

Thanks Paul Anyone any ideas on measuring this rather than doing it by eye - Can I assume that the water pump pulley and the crank pulley are aligned already? as I can measure where the pump pulley is compared to the face of the block and should be able to do the same with the alternator ?? Thx Aidan

Yes and leave the nuts on flat with the stud. Aidan

Would you say that the face of your alternator was in line with the block where your bracket is bolted to?

Hi. Can you advise did it have a kink in it and if so did it fit to the front or back of the alternator connection? I'm not sure mine is aligned. Aidan

Hi Paul - thanks but the issue is the top bracket where you adjust to tension the fan belt, the kit came with a bottom bracket that fits perfectly Pete -Thanks - removed the fan belt and slid the alternator away from the block - It fits without hitting the bonnet when I move it 65 mm further down the slide with a small gap between the top of the bracket where the fitting to the alternator is I have measured the length of the replacement belt I need with a bit of thin rope 1140 mm so have asked Paddockes to supply me with one as that's where I got the kit from And everybody said it was easy to fit ! HA Don't think so "WHAT FUN" as Patricia Hodge says to Miranda Aidan

I have fitted the original bracket that seems to work however the alternator is now too high I could really do with some help if anyone out there has an alternator converted ~Mk1 Aidan

Hi All I have been supplied with the wrong sliding bracket for my alternator conversion it Should as per http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mki/ii-mki-alternator-attachment/ This bracket is not available (From Canleys or Paddocks anyway) Has anyone else had the same problem ? Can I use the original one from the Dynamo? Do I need to re-shape it in any way or will it work straight off? If anyone has a picture of what they did it would be really helpfull Thanks Aidan

Hi again Another quick Q for those GT6 guys who have done the Alternator conversion - IS this the correct top bracket? seems to foul my thermostat housing pls the alternator seems to be really close to the block! Cheers

Hi again OK Box off Internals removed - Decided to work on the original Box rather than purchase new so no going back now!! Anyway, Richard if you are on-line at some point or any one else really - Just a little confused although this may come under the statement of "In principle" but I just want to triple check The pictures on and two are what I have at the moment The first you can see the front if the box - the second the back where I have labeled the terminals with the lettering My confusion is if you look at the picture from Richards instruction The wiring joint to me looks to be going from B to F ???? Hence my confusion I thought it was F to WL and B to D ? Is it me? Am I going bananas ??? Thx Pete - apart from the good ideas above for keeping it - My main reason is so all the cable terminals can be left as is Aidan

Thanks Richard - That doesn't look too complex at all. Just three questions The front of the box does not seem to be held to the back plate with something that can be undone - Is it best to "Drill" these out or do they come undone from the back? In regard to the internal "Bobbins", whats the best way to remove them? Just cut them out or do the three nuts shown on picture 5 hold them in and they just need undoing to remove the bobbins? Also is it best to keep the plate earthed on terminal E? Thx Aidan

On looking again how do you get in to it ?

Hi All I'm about to convert over to an alternator I am quite happy with the wiring that needs to be done but wondered if anyone has used the old control box as a suitable connection box so in other words taking out the old internals and rewiring the terminals from inside the box. I am hoping this would then keep everything tidy and insulated. - Has anyone tried this? and if you have - Could you post a picture of the inside of the box? I will be adding another cable to take care of the addional amperage from the alternator Thx