AidanT

Hi, Thanks for the info - Is it OK just to remove and replace items 30,31 and 32 leaving 29 in the housing or do I need to replace that as well - I have tried to move 29 with a spanner with no success - so I am soaking it in penetrating oil but if I can get away without removing it that would be good - My only other option will be to cut the old pips and get a socket on it with a breaker bar If I can just leave it and swap out the items 30 31 and 32 then its a lot easier

Hi All About to replace my very old mild steel return pipe with a hole in it with a stainless steel one - Any one with any advice on removing the old nut and olive? other than being careful! - Any advice do's and dont's etc gratefully received Thanks

Hi - I joined the TSSC club before I purchased my second Triumph - The reason I say this is you can look in detail on the club classifieds on the TSSC site which gives you a much better idea of what you can get for the money

The Shop Shoes seem a really good price thanks, also any thoughts on a replacement fitting kit and springs? I have seen a set for a Mk3 GT6, would they work? - Certainly looks the same from the picture? Thx

Hi All, After upgrading my studs to 7/16" on my Mk1 GT6, I noticed my REAR Brake shoes will need replacing at some point in 2015. I have been looking to find Riveted ones but to no avail. Looking on that well known shopping site I found various makes of bonded ones including Veco and Delphi. Can anyone recommend these makes? or advise on where to get some good quality rear shoes? Thanks in Advance

OK Not as bad as I thought!!

Thanks I will try it out!! Sorry if pictures appear here ME kust trying to work this out!!

Maybe its just me but is there some sort of step by step guide on How to do the above? Or do I need to ask my son how and even what some of the terminology means here. I admit I'm not a twit or a face(boring)book user bit even so.....

Try Wins International - but you will have to give them a call - Got a few original switches for mine from there

Thanks Clive managed to get one side done For anyone else doing this I needed a 23 mm drill hole to just squeeze my new studs in Just need to get hold of some blanking grommets to close up the hole. Drilled the hole from the back starting with an 8 mm pilot drill. Just had to tidy it up with a file. Thanks

Hi All, An addendum to this subject, I am trying to fit extended 7/16" studs to the rear of my GT6. There is not enough wriggle room to fit the new studs int to the hub and I have been advised that some people have cut a hole in the back plate to allow new studs to be fitted. Can anyone provide any further advice on how / where to cut the hole, I have a good sized steel drill nut don't know where best to cut the hole and from which side and if a pilot should be made first. The option to use a puller to release the hub and make space is one I'd like to avoid if at all possible Thanks Aidan

From the various comments I have seen the cheaper versions that you can find on ebay seem to work fine for the 4 cylinder cars and cause problems in the 6. The cheaper one I originally fitted was binned very quickly, now I have a good quality one added with a full dizzy rebuild and it works brilliantly! Aidan

your not the only one that finds it a true pain in the proverbial Maybe if enough of us complain something will be done about it

Hi - If you are going to change to electronic ignition, just to advise some people have had issues with "Accuspark". There are other options such as "Powerspark" (Yes they are a different company) at the cheaper end, and others such as Aldon (the club supplies) at the better quality end. In my experience you get what you pay for ! Aidan

Not sure if you can see it but its the inner circle before the spokes

For some reason I have failed! The Wheels I have have a thicker wheel wall section toward where they bolt to the hub, so they jamb against my calipers at the front! Don't know if this is standard for sprints but this is the end for this project I think. Anyone wanting some really nice sprint alloys along with the correct 7/16 wheel nuts please let me know! I will add a picture or two whan I'm not using Chrome. Whoever designed this forum may need to look at the ease of adding pictures using this browser! It ain't easy!

Hi I fitted one to my GT6 a year ago and there are two recommendations I can make 1 Put the gauge and piping together connecting to the Tee piece in the engine bay. Run the engine and test for leaks. Better to have a leak and fix it at the gauge end outside of the cockpit, oil and carpet are not a good mix. Once tested use undo at the Tee piece and use cling film to seal the pipe end to do the final fitting 2 Don’t forget the small red fibre washers at each end! 3 Have some cable ties handy. My pipe was far too long so I coiled the excess up in the engine bay and cable tied it out if the way Hope this helps a little Aidan

Hi again, Should have added - I have gone for the 7/16 upgrade! Aidan

Hi, I'm not sure this will help, but I have just purchased some new studs, (although extended ones) From Jigsaw Racing Services. They stated to me that they have the original stud pattern and have them manufactured to it and although I have yet to fit them, they do look like the broken one in your picture Aidan

Finally received the last piece in the kit to do this - Spacers! I did look at universal ones that are probably OK but decided to do the job properly, so I found a company that makes them with the correct PCD called Component Engineering. (You can find them on Eb-y ) They kindly made me a set of 10 mm spacers, they already produce and sell the 3 & 5 mm ones but will do requests for other sizes. So Now to put it all together! Aidan

I tried Accuspark on my GT6, and well lets say I won't be using them, again! I must admit that my dizzy wasn't in the best condition, it had a lot of side way movement in the shaft, but the accuspark unit ran well until the engine got to its normal running temperature and then miss-fired and lost power. I tried an Aldon unit that was recommended to me but had difficulty getting one that would fit my D200. You can get on for around the £100 mark, but I think its a case of getting what you pay for. In the end I had my dizzy rebuilt by H&H ignition Solutions who fitted their own ignition unit. The whole refurb cost £175, and the car is as sweet as a nut Link Below is for the Aldon ignitor - you just need to select the appropriate unit. the second is for H&H http://www.aldonauto.co.uk/shop/prodtype.asp?CAT_ID=39&strPageHistory=category http://www.h-h-ignitionsolutions.co.uk/ Hope this Helps some Aidan

After doing some more reading on this I tried just to realign the door by loosening the top hinge from the post, gently lifting the door with a piece of wood and a scissor jack. Then re-tightening the bolts. Its taken a few goes but the door now closes without problems. Maybe a temporary fix - but I will see how it goes and how long it lasts Aidan

Thanks, I have ordered the pins but if I need to go to th second step can you recommend a supplier? They all seem to be a similar price Thx

OK Thanks I will get some new pins to start. On a practical front can the pins be removed individually whilst the door is in place or is is better to remove the door and hings from the A post first? Also do the pins drift out in either direction or is it better to push them up and out? Thx Aidan