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Bfg

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Everything posted by Bfg

  1. Pretty TS2 but the fit or styling of the rear arch skirt seems horrid. Windscreen looks well raked back too. ? I must admit I've always been rather disappointed by Heritage certificates, and now the cost seems suddenly to have gone up so much (..so much for the efficiency of data processing in the 21st century.!), they don't seem to offer very good value. After-all what does it tell you ..that the VIN plate & body plates, in combination with log book, doesn't ..essential whether it left the factory with wire wheels, a heater, a radio, or a surrey top ? and then which dealer it went to. Even the V5 tells me that the car was first registered on 24th July 1962, that there have been seven registered keepers in the UK, so it wasn't exported. The car has overdrive and correctly the number ends in a -O and the body plate tells me what the original colour was. no ? And the DVLA - MOT check tells me something more about its history / annual mileage between 2006 and 2016.
  2. 98 YKX - Triumph TR4 RHD, red, first registered July 1962 .. Anyone know this car or anything of its registration number. Wondering if perhaps that was carried over from a sidescreen TR or other Triumph model ? I'm enquiring on behalf of John, a gentleman who recently bought the car (in the Manchester area), and who I've encouraged to join the club cheers, Pete
  3. Cannot honestly say 'deserve' but certainly it's the stuff of dreams, having the car to go with the redhead would be nice too !
  4. part 2. . ^ The trailer's lid with its down-turned flanges lifted off. Naturally the outside rim will be trimmed off, but the bridging paste isn't stiff enough to hold the shape ..so I'll need to fibreglass the inside first. ^ I cannot work in that heat (he says as it now piddles with rain) so yesterday evening I knocked up an 8ft x 10ft gazebo frame from 4"x2's (which I did have to buy ! ) ^ a decent work space ..shaded from the direct heat of the sun ..and/or a rain shower. Now back to work. . . ^ I want a generous radius on the outside corners ..and so I thought to fillet the inside before fibreglassing it, and then I'd cut the outside corner off. Blue tape seemed the easiest and cheapest way to achieve that inside radius. The glassfibre, chopped strand mat, I've delaminated to make it very thin, which will wet out with the resin so much easier, without having to work the air bubbles out. Just 2/3rds of the lid's sides were laminated at this stage, simply because those downturns needed holding squarer to shape. It's all guesswork at this point so I may have to cut and shove things later. The glass fibres were laminated into the corners, not layed out as the previous photo implies. This was allowed to mostly cure before the next layers were added.. ^ the wheel and two night storage heater bricks are just there to help hold the domed shape, so the fibreglassing I've done is limited to around those. But hopefully the side flanges will be at a sensible angle rather than too flared out. We'll see ! That's it for today, as said above it's now raining and the gazebo (with a cheap Wilkes 4 x 5m tarp) is presently keeping things dry. Tomorrow I'd like to at least get the corner radius and first layer of glassfibre along the remaining one and half sides, Bidding you a good evening, Pete
  5. Update .. ^ the main body tub's corner fibreglassing was eventually done, inbetween rain showers. All the small angle brackets were removed and so there's just 4 screws and body washers in each of the four side, and the grp is doing the rest ..and those screws will most likely be removed once everything has cured for a month. ^ corner detail revealing the construction. ^ the bathroom scales tell me the tub is about 43.5kg. The seat support is not in yet, nor are the inner wheel arches, but then the round wheel arch cut-outs also have not been cut yet either. My target for all-up-weight was 100kg, so with 30kg of wheels and suspension, plus the chassis I fear I'm likely to be over the top. That's just part of the price of using recycled material rather than choosing thinner. Time to move onto making a lid. of course I never do things the easy way do I !! ^ speaks for itself ..doesn't it ? ^ a leftover sheet of bendy plywood, pulled down over the surrey top roof and battens as I try to created a slightly domed top. ^ a couple of layers of fibreglass over the plywood (bonding to it) to try and hold that shape. Unfortunately I mucked this up when trying to fibreglass in direct and very hot sunlight, and also running out of resin ! Pete you are a clot sometimes ! ^ I made another length of corner radius using the same mould. Ideall that should have been 12 -15mm larger radius but needs what may. ^ I went back to the boat and found some more plywood (1/8" thk) which used to be the headlining in a forward cabin. That's been remodeled for greater headroom and so this plywood is again surplus to requirements. I cut it into four strips 110mm wide (because that was the size of wood) and using 8mm battens (from the skip) cut to length as spacers I glued those four strips up under the domed lid. ^ corners likewise glued into place with the bridging paste. ^ working in direct sun and such high temperatures wasn't working so I tried to jury rig something like a tailgate awning. That didn't work as it was too small. Heat stopped play but you can see the trailer lid's overlapping flanges taking shape. More to come. Pete
  6. ^ also utilizing the garden seat I'd made, I erected the cheapo 4 x 5m tarp with its silver side facing outwards to reflect the heat. It's translucent enough underneath to give a soft light, and the breeze comes in from the end. a garden gazebo that's not even screwed to the ground is hardly a permanent structure, so feel free to invite the council to waste their time.
  7. . . spend all that money and effort yesterday to keep the sun from scorching me bald patch, and what do I get this morning . . . ^ clouds
  8. I looked at ebay & garden-center gazebos and (without sides) they start from £55. Their nominal sizes didn't quite suit my patio space, but it was their ' small print ' that really put me off . . . Note: - We will not take responsibility for the frame or covers when they have been snapped due to wrong assembling or assembled in the wind and rain as the rain will just buckle the frame. - It takes at least 2 people to assemble a pop up gazebo. - You must use sand bags or sand buckets and tie them down properly. - Please make sure the gazebo will not be left outside under any bad weathers as rains or wind may buckle the roof to destroy it. Similar say that they should This item should not be left assembled overnight while others simply say not to be left unattended, ..none of which helps keep things dry when a rain squall comes in.
  9. Aargh... Gazebo ! "Bless you " OK., I think . . . I was really glad to move apartments.. to then have a patio ..to do various handyman and car jobs on. However, the weather proved somewhat frustrating for working outside ..with almost a month of rain squalls and then showers coming across all too frequently. This was not at all friendly when trying to fibreglass together plywood (make a trailer). These past few days have been glorious weather (who said "flipping hot" ) ..for sitting in the shade of a leafy tree, but again not so easy for physically working outside in the direct sunlight ..nor indeed for gauging the working time of fibreglass mixes. In short, and really not wanting to sound like a grumpy old git.. but something had to give. In this instant it was my bank account in buying some timber and a tarp. This was my quick n' dirty concept . . . ^ sun shade gazebo, to be built robustly enough to also serve as an all-weather car port. 4 x 2" frame of 10 ft long x 8ft wide. Oddly I found Wickes cheaper than Travis Perkins, but even so the C16 grade treated timer + 200 (!) 70mm screws, and a cheap tarp totaled £148.70 (the nice man gave me something like a £16 discount ..because the three 10ft lengths I needed were listed as 'limited stock' on their website, and wouldn't add to the basket ..even though my local store had 25 lengths in stock. Bottom line was that I couldn't have them delivered, I had to go to the store to buy them). Anyways up . . . ^ 17:33pm ; nine 2440mm lengths and three 3m timbers collected ..in the Chrysler shed. ^ 18:18pm ; This is the first frame, which I screwed together the wrong way around and had to do again. I cut the legs 11" shorter than bought length ..because I saw no advantage of having this structure any taller, whereas it being lower meant I could reach to put the screws in.! Note the cunning use of paving slabs as a set square. 18:44pm ; Three frames roughly in place, with 'workmates' holding them upright. The first 10ft length is presently just resting on top. Working alone, I then needed to figure out how to hold it in place, while I put fastenings in. I clamped the offcuts (from where I'd shortened the legs) to each frame, 4" down from the top. These acted as a ledge to rest and accurately position the 10ft length on. I then clamped them there, as I set the frame's legs with a spirit level, before screwing the assembly together. . . . ^ 20:07pm ; Finished.. Leg's close enough to true, the two side 10ft length are screwed in place, and the ridge pole raised 140mm higher than the sides and fastened via a few of those off-cuts. I'll drape the tarp over it tomorrow. That'll just be tied on for the time being ..just in case I want to take it off (gale force winds or perhaps to watch the sunset). The assembly is a little less ridged than I'd hoped but then I noted some of the screws didn't pull all the timbers tightly together. Some will need to be loosened, clamped tight, and then then re-screwed tighter. For winter use with a heavy duty tarp, I'll very likely add some bracing / diagonal battens to withstand higher winds. That's all folks. For much the same price as a cheapo pop-up gazebo off ebay, and 2-1/2 hours work (doing it on my own).. I now have something I'm confident will better withstand the elements, be a useful shelter as I finish off this trailer, and then serve as a car port for my Triumph. I expect the cheap tarp from Wilkes will only just last the summer months. Thereafter I'll use a heavier / better quality one for the winter weather (more wet, less UV). The treated-timber frame should last a good number of years. Pete.
  10. That's brilliant Andy, I love the class ..although to be honest it would surprise me to see the owner of a 1959 Mercedes-Benz 190SL actually camping in such confines. More photos on the Bonham's Auction website < here >. I'd really have to contort to get into one of those.! Unreliable weather (light showers five times a day, or even just keep threatening to ..for a month can be as disruptive as heavy rain for just a week). I've done a little more and now excessive heat stops play. I don't trust the quality (value) of cheap gazebo's, so I've ordered a heavy duty tarp and tomorrow will order some 4"x2" to make a 10ft x 8ft canopy / gazebo. It'll cost me £200 but I cannot waste any more months ..waiting for reliably mild but dry weather. Later I'll add sides and length to convert my gazebo into a car port. Now its evening and mild enough to work outside.., neighbours are trying to relax ..quietly sitting out or pottering around watering their flowers on a Sunday evening, so I feel obliged not to go outside to start cutting n' grindin fibreglass. Pete. ^ I tried jury rigging up a sun shade but the plastic sheet I had wasn't big enough to shade anything but the trailer itself. I would still have been in the full heat of the day.
  11. Thanks Paul, I particularly sought a compact camping-trailer ..so that it would tuck into the slipstream of a sports car and for its wheels not to project out of either side (which I don't like down small country lanes). Being a grumpy old git ..I'm on my own, and the older style types I spotted, or were recommended all seemed to be made for multiple persons. After a while I decided to make my own from recycled plywood. You can see the design I proposed < here > and then also how far I've got with its build (unfortunately very much delayed by the weather). Still I chug along with it, and have now bought (yes bought ! ) the steel shs for its chassis rails, but haven't yet fabricated that because I'm taking advantage of the dry weather to make a lid for the box. Pete.
  12. Thanks, I'll be OK, I just need a break.. Like Mathew, I've been here before and then sold the car ..just to get rid of the next round of hassles, only to then replace those with a different but oddly familiar scenario.. This time I'm planning of just putting things quietly aside for a little while, and not to throw the toys out of the pram. Previously (each time) I've been screwed by professionals in the trade, but this time I feel M&T have done a good job. Any professional service is expensive to someone without an income (it's now just 14 months before I get a state pension) but I feel this company's pricing is very fair and were particularly accommodating with the supply of used parts, at a keen price, to help keep the total down. This morning my old chassis sold, and that of course helps offset the overall cost. A chap, Russell from the Cambridge area, bought it for his '67 TR4A project, and I think plans on restoring it (or possibly having M&T restore it), so that he may then clean up, refurbish and transfer mechanicals over ..just one assembly at a time (rather than dismantling everything all at once). I guess he'll then follow suit and sell his old chassis on to the next chap - to recoup some of his costs. The classic car world is pretty good in recycling isn't it.! Pete.
  13. Bfg

    Hydrogen

    The EV conversation was also on the TR Reg forum, when Richard Pope with a TR6 project car asked if anyone had seriously considered EV conversion, especially from a DIY / kit basis? His own circumstance being that he's facing £7000+ in engine & mechanical, cooling system, electrics, carburettors, etc., restoration costs, so was wondering about putting that money instead converting the car to EV. Most of the replies questioned the environment worth of scrapping ICE vehicles and replacing them with electric, and also the timing (in an industry that is likely to change fast and when present technology both carries a new / novelty tax and is probably out of date within five years). Others were about loosing the characteristics of driving a real classic versus an EV, and then others still were regarding the limited range, charging, and the real cost to the end user (with battery life, charging points, etc). On the positive side there were a couple of links shared . . . One which caught my eye was this very beautiful < Bentley S3 Continental > EV conversion by Silverstone based British resto-mod company Lunaz. Another was a Canadian conversion of a TR6 following the accident right-off of his earlier conversion to a Triumph Spitfire. < here >. It was good to read an article from someone who had actually done it. The TR6 conversion has a link to the Triumph Spitfire conversion, and that shares a little about his own use of that car for commuting to work, and the costs (c.2016 - 17). For what it's worth, my appraisal was . . . " Brilliant many thanks for sharing this. I'm impressed by the gentleman's progressive thinking (c.2016) and his actually making the car to a budget, over-coming hurdles, and then use of the car. I was again disappointed that the article focus was on the conversion and almost nothing about the consequent experience with the EV-TR6, but the link contained within that article ..to his E-fire (Triumph Spitfire conversion to Electric) filled in a few more gaps, from this gentleman's real-world usage. . . . A car for going places ? of particular note to anyone wanting to use their car ..even on this little island. "So far, the “Triumph E-Fire” as we call it, has been a surprisingly reliable and enjoyable ride. It has a comfortable highway range of about 100 km on a charge. It recharges from my 61 km commute in about 6.5 hours from a normal 120V wall socket- or in half that time from a 240 V electric charging station. " So, a range of 62 miles for a spitfire size & weight of car, which for many of us would mean a round trip, not either way. And 3-1/4 hours recharge time using 240v. Where facilities allow recharging, perhaps for an hour while stopped for lunch might add another 15 - 20 miles to the range. Quite possibly battery technology has moved on, over the past six years, to offer a greater range. Here in the UK / Europe we might also use higher (3-phase ?) voltages for fast recharging ? Costs ? " The conversion parts were costly- about $16,000 CDN all told- but about $8,000 of that was just for the batteries." The article is published in October 2017 so the prices are probably from 2016. He clearly did almost all of the work himself, so with minimal cost in professional garage services or fabrication, and he already had a Toyota gearbox & driveshaft to couple the electric motor to. I wonder what a " series string of 32 Sinopoly 3.2 V 180 amp-hour lithium iron phosphate batteries, capable of storing about 18.5 kWh of electricity at a nominal 105 volts DC " or their equivalent would cost in the UK today.? Are batteries cheaper now or are their prices being upped by greater demand ? Lifespan of batteries ? "The batteries should last about 3,000 charge-discharge cycles if kept below 70% depth of discharge and not over-charged" Although his daily commute used just 60% of the full charge, but if the car were used in the evenings & at weekends, for popping to the shop, running his son around, etc, we might assume an average of a full-charge each day. So the calculation is simply 3000 divided by 365 days = 8.2 years battery life. That of course assumes the batteries don't drop in performance over that period of time ..and there's no mistake in over-discharging or over charging the batteries which might lessen that duration. At $8000CDN a pop + inflation (or else lower cost later generation batteries ? ) might we presume the cost would be around $ 1000CDN (or whatever today's UK cost is) per annum. Lead acid batteries have a little value when cashed-in for recycling, but I don't know if that is the same with modern EV batteries. Offset against this though would be no ICE repairs to worn out parts, no decoking, new piston rings or re-cutting valves, no gaskets, &/or servicing costs like points, oil and various filters, antifreeze, etc. Vehicle weight is very similar so tyre wear would be much the same, but with regenerative braking the cost of brake shoes. I don't know how long the electric motor or controllers would last but I suspect we might assume a 20+ year vehicle lifespan, if the vehicle is usually garaged. Interesting.., thanks again for the link and to the author Paul Martin. " Pete.
  14. Unfortunately I'm passed that ..probably just burnt out, and generally sick n' tired of car bits, tools & consumables cluttering and always underfoot in this small apartment. No, I'm sorry to say that I'm not even looking forward to collecting it. That'll just add to the clutter, and I'm anxious that there will be issues (teething problems if you like) from the car having been disassembled and then put back together by someone else, but not having been thoroughly tested before I take it out on a very busy M6. My own modus-operandi, when professionally recommissioning / rebuilding the post-war Sunbeam motorcycles, was to ride a customers rebuilt bike for 200 miles (minimum) ..just to ensure it was reliable, oil tight, systematically torqued down, and of course set-up correctly and roadworthy. Nevertheless in the circumstance, I think for the time being, it's best just to get the car back here and put a cover over it until my mindset puckers up. I didn't go, nor did I want to go, to our last TR Reg group's monthly meeting ..I guess because I didn't want to talk about the car. I now also wont go to the IWE. I've not been to a single classic car, bike, steam, flying, or any other country show or event, nor am I expecting to for a while, although coming across to Duxford is still just about a possibility. The last one I went to (2019) was a modest but friendly gathering and that suited me. I guess part of my present melancholy is founded in trying to build (outside) a camping trailer (in pursuit of the 'dream' of touring with the TR) ..in the time the car was away, and instead I've been exasperated by the weather. At times, I've been very close to just burning it - to get all of that shyte out of what ought to be a home ..not a workshop / garage / shed. I'm clearly in need of a break, but I have too much to do, and my age keeps reminding me not to dilly dally if i want to do anything else. 'The dream' has taken on a unattractive slant because of the endless expenses (..and also escalated value of the car). It's not what I wanted, which was simply a fun driver (..that I accepted would be an oily rag / rolling recommission). Instead I've ended up with a glamorous woman-in-red that's out of my league. Desirable but ever demanding can only end one way. Sorry if this is not what you wanted to read, but it is part and parcel of the trials and tribulations, warts and insecurities et al. If I can just back off for a while.. then in time the bills will fade into history, clutter will find their way from my sitting room and hallway back onto the car. The car's surrey-top roof, the car's wiring and gearbox cover, and interior will be miraculously happen ..and then perhaps I can try again with Katie. In the meantime every aspect of my life is being pulled into in this relentless spiral. P.
  15. Thanks again Pete, this morning I phoned the TR Register's insurance agent, and told them of the chassis change, plus the usual strengthening mods and that I've had additional stiffening added, including along the rear rails for when I fit a towing bracket. I explained that this work was done by M&T Classics, along with all the suspension parts being dismantled and regreased, new bolts, poly-bushes throughout, etc. Also that the gearbox has been rebuilt, the clutch replaced, along with all the rubber parts like heater & coolant hoses. Again that I'm changing from wire wheels to standard 4J x15 steel wheels, which now have new tyres, and that I'll be fitting new carpets. Citing your view that the car seemed A1+ in most areas, and the value proposed by the TSSC, I've raised the insurance value of my TR to that amount ..for an additional £21 inc a nominal £5 admin fee. They'll require another set of photos which I suggested I'll send them at the end of next week. The gentleman (insurance broker) didn't seem to flinch when I mentioned that value, indeed he pointed out that a TR4 was presently advertised on C&C for that value and that very recently a dealer was asking £5 - 6k more for a 4A. It all seem like Monopoly figures to me. On the other tack, yesterday I had the new tyres fitted and balanced (stick on weights on their insides only) . . . Little by little I'm making progress.. Pete
  16. Sunday 11th ; a little bit of tarting up . . . ^ As bought, and as you can see my replacement wheels look pretty tidy, however you might also get an indication of the (minor) cosmetic damage ..not least from being put down on concrete and leaned against a brick wall (by the seller) ! Typically their condition was a little chipped around the edges and where balancing weight clips had ripped off the clear lacquer and the odd area of surface rust . . . ^ This and another wheel had black specks (more apparent in life than in this photo) and a couple of places needing a little cleaning up inside and around the tyre rim. Overlaid paint where necessary was single pack ; Zinc + a couple coats of metallic paint + clear lacquer. Hopefully this should keep rust at bay at least for the lifespan of their new tyres. The worse condition wheel was what was presumably latterly used as the spare . . . ^ this had no lacquer on it, the rim edges were each well and truly chipped and with surface rust, and the inside (after cleaning) was again craving a little tlc. I've only done a quick job of washing with detergent, wire brushing the chips and rusty areas and giving a good wipe over with thinners, before rattle can painting . . . ^ without even rubbing it down in preparation it's only a tarting up job, but I think respectable and a close enough match to the others to use on the car as is. Actually this wheel is in really good shape, and better than another, so I think I will use it. That's all for today. I'll let the paint harden for a day or two and then have the new tyres fitted and balanced. Just a little progress ..but in the right direction. Bidding you a pleasant Sunday evening, Pete.
  17. Thanks Pete, I'm well under insured then .. but what about the car ?
  18. I'd like to have my car MOT inspected because, although almost always the MOT picks on something I really don't think is that important (like a number plate bulb not working !) - they've very-occasionally spotted things I'd missed. For example, at one time on my BMW 750cc triple / touring motorcycle ; I'd fitted a pair of new Continental tyres. For the next MOT, the tyres were just 8 months old and with low mileage, the pressures were good and the tread was deep, but I hadn't seen cracking within the depth of the thread on the back tyre, which extended almost 2/3rd the way around its perimeter ..the tyre was faulty from manufacture. I wouldn't have relished the experience of having that tyre tear apart as I rode along a busy motorway, like the M25 or M6. I think that most of us would agree that simply getting the car or bike up on a ramp to check around for occurrences of rust, oil seeps, to grease joints, to check the condition of the inside walls of the tyres, and also brake parts and fuel lines is useful. As is the viewpoint of having someone who doesn't see under your car very often have a look, especially when that someone is mechanically minded and experienced. Very likely I'm talking to the already converted.. So why haven't I done it myself ? I rebuilt my 1950's motorcycle last year and fitted a new tyre and checked everything over, but then rode it for a 1000 miles of running-in, without having it checked over by anyone else. I bought Katie back in March and I knew there were jobs to be done. Almost immediately though I realised that the car would be unreliable unless even more jobs were tackled. Still I was confident in being able to deal with those things ..although I must admit to being caught out by the cost of having to replace the clutch so soon. Otherwise.. aside perhaps from two old tyres, I had assessed the car as being roadworthy and so ought to have passed an MOT test (..this was before I spotted the chassis cracks). Bob, the car's prior owner was very lucky indeed. Had I, and any other potential buyer, insisted on having a new MOT on it before buying, it would have saved this very costly mistake ..or else the purchase cost would have been two-thirds of the price I paid. My having already waited years to buy / afford a TR4 + being still being on a limited budget + covid restrictions were mitigating circumstance, but I won't be doing that again ..unless of course the car is specifically being bought as a project and priced accordingly. Naturally, there is little or no point in my urging anyone else to insist on a recent MOT before buying their next classic car ..because I know only too well that we enthusiasts are incurable optimists, always wary of missing-out on a nice / interesting / inexpensive car to someone else, &/or perhaps just a bit too full of our own assessment.! I wonder if a poll were done - how many classic car and motorcycle owners would say "yes, it makes good sense to have a current MOT on their vehicle" ..and at the same time they don't ? With classic vehicles I've always liked to know of their history. And of course, a file of receipts, or even just pages of notes, has some value to any prospective owner.. So if common sense, of having the vehicle checked for peace of mind / safety reasons, isn't enough to make me actually get around the inconvenience & cost of doing it (getting an MOT) - perhaps my contributing to the car's long-term recorded-history file might.? ..that seems somehow more motivating.! Pete.
  19. Very valid point. yes, 'modified' does suggest changing the car's geometry &/or major components, which might makes insurance assessors nervous, whereas all the original-TR4A chassis members are intact and unaltered. I've simply added gussets or bracing to those places, acknowledged to have weakness, are commonly dented, and where it's possibly marginal (a little too lightweight) for towing a trailer. This car's engine and drive-train, suspension, steering and brakes are all to original specs, save the poly-bushes ..and its engine, carburation and exhaust have not to my knowledge been 'tuned' in any way. Thank you I will more carefully watch my words. How to determine an appropriate insurance value is another question altogether. Perhaps I'll need to send a report to, or have the car inspected by, an authority from the TR Register club (through whom I arranged the car's insurance) or else someone from the TSSC ? Pete.
  20. Friday update from Mark., showing the replacement outer sill now welded in place, which will hopefully align the door to sill and door to wing gaps very much better. . . Next he says " Will get filler work done, re-prime and seal joints" Mark is now away for 10 days holiday, so his team will be getting on with this, and getting the door and panels, including the bonnet, back on and adjusted as correct as they might (..without getting into reshaping the doors or wings). Then it's things like the rear lights, gearbox tunnel cover, and a dozen or two of minor details, plus of course wax injecting inside the structure, to ready the car for collection on or soon after the 20th. For budgetry reasons, I'll paint the sill and the door shuts when I get the car back here. Again it's looking good, but now it'll be much better held together, which of course relates both to safety, the general feel of driving the car ...and to lessening the number of rattles ! Two more new Continental tyres arrived here yesterday so I now have a full set of five.! Those are to fitted and balanced onto the pressed steel wheels I bought. And I'll take these up with me when I go to collect Katie and will swap them over before we drive back. I once bought a pair of motorcycle tyres (at the same time), but this is the first time I've ever bought a full set, or owned a car with new tyres all around. I guess I really ought to contact the insurance company to advise them of the chassis mods too ..and possibly to discus a change in insured value. Bidding you a good weekend ..and some nice weather ? Pete.
  21. Good morning all, earlier in the week, Katie was reassembled enough to have been restarted again. I did have a call from Mark to clarify elements of this car's non-standard wiring. This came down to a stray earth wire not having been noted when the car was stripped, and the hi-torque starter motor having its own solenoid, so the original one on the bulkhead is redundant but for its role as a connection (all wires going onto one just terminal). Later in the day he had the car driving around the yard, albeit without panels or door on the near side. That was to check the functional operation of everything mechanical, fluid and electrical. The very uneven (14mm top - 3mm bottom) near-side door gap was where I'd started my investigation, which led me to note the cracked chassis. With the body tub now correctly fitted to a solid chassis, Mark and his team are tackling that side's sill.. it having rust, being in slightly the wrong place, it being detached from the foot-well side panel, the A-post and B-posts, and its rear corner gusset plate being cracked. . . We made the decision to cut this side's outer sill off ..to see what, if anything else, needed repair or replacing. ^ 20 years ago, was polyurethane foam (cavity wall insulation) thought to help keep water out, and so rust at bay ? ..or was it in there as an attempt to stiffen the structure, or to lessen noise transmission ? ^ The front end cap had rusted through and then of course any road-water spray goes inside the sill. The car's footwell / floors have a down-turned flange which serves as the lower half of the inner sill, and being thin sheet steel that's been welded - is a place to rust quickly. From under the car it didn't look at all too bad, but I knew they would need cleaning up and probably patching sometime soon. There was of course under-seal to conceal the worse. I do hate that stuff. Mark sent me these photos yesterday evening together with the note ; " Removed old sill, door jam stiffener and end caps, cleaned up edges and inner sill treated and etch primed. As thought it will require bottom 1 inch on inner sill and rear pillar bottom repairing but other edges all pretty good." Having seen what was what he could then give me a fixed cost for this work. We spoke this morning to confirm what was needed. . . ^ I don't have the budget to replace everything and so the bottom 1" or so of the down-turned flange will be replaced with new steel, as will other localised areas. The rest mostly cleaned up OK, and so M&T are treating them for rust and applying etch primer. ^ a replacement outer sill, end caps and rear corner gusset will be fitted. These are better quality replacement parts rather than NOS original Stanparts ..which are beyond my budget. Mark sounded surprisingly confident that they'll be able to get the sill and door gaps as even as the other side, which he says are just a little big but within 1mm or so of being even. I'll be very happy with that ..as it avoids their reshaping panels, including the doors &/or wings, which of course would soon run up the costs and necessitate repainting too. Mark is on holiday next week, for one week, but this and other finishing up tasks will done by their team while he is away. All being well we're looking at the car being done and ready for collection or about the 20th of this month. Pete.
  22. yes indeed, I was looking on ebay yesterday at gazebos. I thought of getting a small one just for while doing this work, but then decided that would be a waste of money when I really need one big enough to cover the car (when I get that back) and am refitting all its bits and then getting on with some rewiring. I couldn't see anything cost effective that might outlast a year of UV and weather bashing. And also realised that I like sitting out on a patio in the sunshine when a friend visits ..whereas I wouldn't want to sit in what would in effect be a temporary workshop. Have to admit.. I know me ! ..it'll just end up full of 'more stuff'. An awning rolling out from / recoil back into a fitting on the wall of the house would seem to work, but again the cost for anything of half decent quality / longevity would be more than my (temporary) needs might justify. . I decided to do without for the time being.. but I'll keep my mind open to the prospect just in case something crops up. P.
  23. Having fibreglassed the front end of this trailer's box, and now standing up-ended on that - I removed both the (previously just screwed-down) rear panel and the inside seat support ..so that I might have access to laminate inside there. ^ This in turn provided the facility to more easily reach down (rather than contort around inside) to laminate the underside length of the seat to side panels. That went well ..inbetween rain showers on Monday. But again rain stopped play earlier than I might have liked. Yesterday I was determined to get one with this supposedly quick job, even though that meant I had to stop every 45 minutes to put rain covers over it . . . ^ Rear panel seen refitted ..now onto the bridging-paste adhesive. And the grp corner panels trimmed for final fit. Again a clamped-in-place cross-brace was used to prevent the side's top corners from flaring out, and the weight of a 10ltr paint container positioned to keep the top-corner of the end-panel bowed-in while I bonded that grp corner in place.. By 3:30pm this was done on both left and right hand rear corners inbetween each (four or five) wave of heavy rain shower and the next wave of black cloud was looming overhead. ^ Inside filleting with the fibreglass bridging paste, in preparation for when I glassfibre laminate over it. There's a lot of physical contortion to working inside these corners, But for all the exercise ..I don't feel any the fitter for it ! - - - "I fought the law ..and the law won" .. but the laws of nature did conspire against me ! with weather fronts blowing in very quickly & without pity swirling all around, and gravity being a fickle helper who at one moment helped hold panels to their curved shape ..and/or the plastic rain covers in place .. to then suddenly swap sides to work with the weather who had cunningly made various shiny surfaces wet n' slippery. Together they highlighted what a right plonker I can be sometimes ! ..especially in those last minutes as the next wave of rain starts and I'm desperately trying to keep the end-grain of plywood dry . . . ^ (Previously) unopened brilliant white wall and ceiling paint 10L. Barely used masonary paint 5L. Neither lid came off, both cracked open. And just to spite me the black clouds flew by without unloading a single drip, and the sun came out to dry the paint quickly. I know.. it couldn't have happened to a nicer chap ! And no, since moving to an apartment.. I don't have empty pots which I might have used filled with water, instead of full-of paint ones ! I scooped the paint up as quickly as I could into two waste bins and then rushed off to get the garden hose out. Some of the paint had already started to dry into the concrete slabs, so it wouldn't just brush away with the broom. Just then the heavens now decided to open. It bucketed it down. I donned rain coat, and with garden hose in one hand and cordless drill with wire brush in the other was standing their in the rain trying to clean this mess up. Three hours of back breaking effort and the patio looks clean again. There was splatter on the walls but I spotted most and its all but gone now. 15L of premium paint..that was a costly learning experience. This morning. . nicely scrubbed (wire brushed !) patio. It's not raining ..and now the sun has the audacity to show it's face ! ..but I'm too knackered and feeling somewhat fkd off and with definite inclinations towards having a bonfire - so I'm taking the day off to bang my head against a wall. Hope your day was better than mine. Hey, it's just part and parcel of any job or ' hobby ' conducted out in the fresh air (fibreglass dust and fumes aside). And I'll be back bright and bushy tailed tomorrow .. you'll see. Bidding you a good'n Pete.
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