Adrian Saunders
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Posts posted by Adrian Saunders
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On 01/06/2019 at 09:47, Pete Lewis said:
Donsnt the head end inner normally have a crimp on ferrule to control its position , so it only fits one way ?? IE
you can only withdraw the inner from the head end ??? Or is that a dream
Do make sure you have a 7/16" simple washer between angle drive and speedo pinion to make sure there is not pre load on the angledrive primary drive.
Pete
Just a standard thickness, plain washer?
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On 10/11/2019 at 13:45, Colin Lindsay said:
Good that you've identified the problem, but sad they're supplied this way. Are we allowed to enquire publicly here where they came from, or what brand they are?
Hi Colin. Somewhat delayed reply. House broken into a few weeks ago so the GT6 has been low priority. I still think they were damaged on install by previous owner. The tubes have been reamed and are a splendid fit now. Probably install this weekend.
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On 07/11/2019 at 11:10, Colin Lindsay said:
Where did you get the bolts from? Try the old ones and see how they fit. I bought bolts from a local Fastner company which were identical to my old ones in looks, but metric, and so didn't fit the imperial mountings. Absolutely the same when held side by side, but just the slightest difference in thickness. I went online and bought the correct Imperial ones and they fitted first time.
Hi Colin. My fasteners are imperial, it’s the spacer tubes, they’re burred at the one end. The set screws that were in went through ok due to the slightly reduced o/d of the threads. Proper bolt shank at 7/16” minus a few thou’s only, interference fit.
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16 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
Setscrews instead bolts with a shank is not best but the bolts clamp the tube the bushes rotate on the tube the bolts should !! Not move or rotate in the brackets or tube the tube must be clamped up solid and tight.
Youre's seem to be a tad inferior up to you to say where they came from they should be returned as unsuitable for purpose
Pete
Hi Pete, I’m swapping out the loaded fasteners so the set screws are out. Correct (grip) length bolts are in.
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3 hours ago, Adrian Saunders said:
Evening all. I’ve swapped every one of the higher loaded bolts in the suspension for correct length ones. No more threads resisting shear liars thank you. But, the bolts refuse to go through the steel tube inside the front/lower bushes, they go through the chassis brackets though. Has anyone else experienced this? Surely I don’t need to take out the tubes and ream them.
Are these yellow bushes Superflex and not Polybush?
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33 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
sounds like a supply problem , does the bolt fit if the tube is removed ??ie is there a burr on the anti crush tube
Pete
Hi Pete. The bolts won’t go through any of the four tubes when removed so I’m taking them to work tomorrow to be checked/reamed to size. There is also a burr on them. It didn’t take much to remove them. Are they usually like this? Are the yellow ones the softest?
PS: Previous owner had used set screws for all front wishbones to mounts! I’m glad I checked. -
Evening all. I’ve swapped every one of the higher loaded bolts in the suspension for correct length ones. No more threads resisting shear liars thank you. But, the bolts refuse to go through the steel tube inside the front/lower bushes, they go through the chassis brackets though. Has anyone else experienced this? Surely I don’t need to take out the tubes and ream them.
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I guess I won’t be using any.
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Has anyone used a fuel preservative, successfully, over at least a six month period?
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On 09/10/2019 at 19:41, Gully said:
Mine are fixed in the lower holes.
Gully
Hi all, everyone else have the bolts at the lower holes too?
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12 minutes ago, Gully said:
Mine are fixed in the lower holes.
Gully
Thank you Gully. I have one up and one down.
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GT6 mk3 rotoflex. Which hole in the (body) bracket should the radius arm be bolted through? Top or bottom?
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I know that the geometry isn’t perfect but, the upright needs to toe-out to get the bolt in and the bracket is already not parallel to the radius arm end
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I’m seeing about 3/4” twist in the bar. Does that sound about right?
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Can anyone confirm the fitted lengths of their radius arms, GT6 and Vitesse. This should help somewhat. Photos would be good too. Thanks.
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6 hours ago, ludwig113 said:
as pete says, the mounts are off set and the radius arms are straight.
paul
6 hours ago, ludwig113 said:as pete says, the mounts are off set and the radius arms are straight.
paul
Pete actually says the opposite to that.
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Ok. In the supplement of the ‘shop manual, same comm numbers referred to but the straight arm is shown. Is the main section of the manual the wrong way around? Vitesse rods are offset, GT6 are straight?
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I have straight radius arms on my Rotoflex mk3 GT6 but the manual shows them as offset. Which should it be? I can’t believe I’ve only just noticed this!
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Good morning Dick, I collected the ARB yesterday, thank you very much. I forgot to get the correct mounts and Canley’s are closed this week. Waiting for delivery from James Paddock now!
Whilst talking to Lesley and her husband Roger yesterday, we realised that my two boys sat in Lesley’s Stag at Solihull “Fun in the Park” a couple of years ago. Picture attached. We plan to visit the event this year. It’s only small but there are some great cars there. Hopefully my GT6 one day!
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Graham, I think it will be comfortable. My left leg will be angled about the same as when driving my everyday (Citroen C4) car and that was fine from B37 to Beer, two weeks ago. Measurements from foot rest to: seat back is 40” and to CL of Front floor x member is 16”.
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Hi guys, another problem with my ‘72 GT6, the driveshafts are touching the chassis on max droop. Damper mount conversion is fitted, are the dampers too long?
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Almost there. This is 0.8 mm thick Al which is quite rigid when bent, riveted and fastened to the tunnel. I have made one out of 1.5 mm thick too as a trial. Graham, it’s attached the way you suggested, better than my original scheme. The threaded inserts are quite secure too, M5 thread. I can supply these as a flat pattern or bent and riveted if anyone else wants to try one.
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On 21/06/2019 at 17:31, bond68 said:
Is there a special tool to tighten the locking ring that secures the fuel tank sender unit?
Ray
I use a pipe wrench and an adjustable (imperial of course) to tighten/loosen as sympathetically as possible.
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4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
Whats the angle
Only Pete or Doug can tell you that.
GT6 mk 3 overdrive Speedo cable
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Thanks Pete.
Max protrusion of square section is 3/4” on new cable and 15/16” on one that I’m replacing. The difference is greater than a washer? Pictures attached, on seat is new, on tunnel is old.