Ian Foster

+1 for this. People expect a third brake light these days and every little helps in avoiding rear end rearrangement. Ian

I always refer to them at car shows as the 'rich man's GT6'. Creates some puzzled looks from those who don't recall the original label given to the GT6. Ian

I managed to download a Vitesse parts book and found reference to it here. I assume it is the single bolt, dowel part No. 132872. Searching with this part number on Canley's website, gives a substitution of Pt No. HB912 which a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. As standard, a 1 1/2" bolt will only have about 1/2" that is unthreaded and the engine back plate plus the bellhousing is more like 0.75", so a cut down 1 3/4" bolt might be more precise. Ian

Phil Really pleased that you have achieved a successful outcome. I think we have all learned about the importance of the lower 3/8" aligning bolt. Mine has a 5/16" bolt in that position, so it will be something to address when I do the clutch swop this winter. Good luck on the RBRR. If the weather gods are kind, you may even to get to drive the fabulous Scottish sections with the roof down. Ian

Took me a while to find it, but this compares various profiles. As Iain suggests the simple doughnut seems to score well.

Phil It was good to meet you. I hope the clutch cover and plate do the job for you. Ref bearing carriers, Canleys list part No. 143707 for the GT6/Vitesse. As original these would have been bronze. Rimmers also list 143707 for the GT6/Vitesse, but show it as a steel item. Hopefully this is what you have. The T2000/2500 carriers both in original and later (slipper pad) flavours have different part numbers. My old T2000 steel carrier, fitted in error back in the late 1970s measures 49.5mm o/a with the bearing fitted. Might be worth checking against yours. Good luck for the RBRR, I'll be thinking about you.

Phil 156 thou is 3.96mm. That's a lot, no wonder the bearing/carrier/fork is wobbling about so much. I'm surprised that didn't pulse through the pedal. Did you measure the runout of the flywheel after you refitted it. Tolerance for that is 0.003" Let me know if you need that cover and plate. Ian

OK, I assume that you have successfully determined the position of the 3/8" stud. If so and you get round to fitting the clutch today, we will be interested to know whether there is any run-out on the clutch fingers (and the flywheel as well as that could be relevant). Keep us updated and let me know if you want a second pair of eyes/opinion. Ian

OK, so I have just found a page in the WSM that I was not previously familiar with. Scan attached. Page 1.113 - Engine reconditioning. Fig 13 shows and lists all of the studs, dowels and plugs fitted to the engine block. At the rear of the block, at the top are:- Diag part No. 20 - 3No. 5/16" UNF studs Part No. 139836 Diag Part No. 21 - I No. 3/8" x 1" dowel Part No. DP0616 Fig 12 on page 1.112, shows the studs and the dowel in position, as do other photos throughout the WSM. At the bottom:- Diag part No. 18 - 1 No. 3/8" x 3/4" dowel Part No. DP0612 This agrees with your post above. I assume from the fact that the top dowel is longer it is the one that protrudes to locate the bellhousing, whereas the lower one is just into the backplate. I think your photo shows this. Ian Scan_0122.pdf

Please explain, we are all on tenterhooks here!

Phil Not quite clear from your previous posts, but have you found the hole for the 3/8" bolt at the bottom and do you have the dowel at the top? Ian

Let's hope so.

Phil Have you been able to check the clutch diaphragm for runout. The oscillating bearing/carrier was your original problem, which could be related to a lack of dowel alignment of the bellhousing or the clutch itself. Clutch cover, plate and GT6 standing by, in case delivery to Lyme required. RBRR looming! Ian

Phil I'll keep an eye on the Forum tomorrow and if needs be we can get the clutch down to you PDQ. As the RBRR is fast approaching, this needs to be fixed. Ian

Something else to check (and worry about).

I likewise had never spotted this before. The WSM text doesn't seem to make any reference to a dowel, although page 2.108 has a photo of the engine backplate from the clutch side and there is clearly a stud at the top. (as attached) You've got me wondering now. I'm pulling the gearbox for a clutch change from an overly strong modern Borg and Beck to a Sachs unit, so will pay due attention on reassembly. Phil, I don't suppose you put a dial gauge on the diaphragm fingers to check for run-out. That's the only thing I can think of that would wobble the release bearing! BTW I do have a serviceable Classics Clutches (B&B type) and a new 10 spline plate available FOC if you are need. (I'm in Wareham, Dorset). Ian PS I have just found a photo of the back of my engine with the top dowel in place. Mildly relieved! Scan_0120.pdf

Matt Yes, isolators are there to limit heat transfer from the (heated) manifold. I have taken a couple more photos of my set up and have attached some CAD drawings I did at the time I was working on it. Basically the manifold flange needs to be built up with aluminium (approx 18mm thick) to match the profile of the HS6. The rear of the manifold is already almost the right profile, but the front one is the same lozenge shape as the standard 150 Strom. The existing holes need to be filled in and new holes drilled and tapped to suit the HS6 bolt pattern. Ideally the studs should have UNC threads in the aluminium and UNF for the nuts onto the carb flanges. I used a local fabricator that I knew through my former career as a Structural Engineer, but any good shop should be able to do it. Next onto the manifold is the heat shield, which is made in two parts. The first part is made from 3m thick aluminium and is sandwiched between the isolator and the carburetor and has a small outstanding angled flange below the carb, onto which the main shield fixes. I did it this way so I could more easily get behind the heat shield if required eg-starter motor and jet adjustment), rather than having to take the carbs off. The removable lower part is made from carbon fibre faced with reflective aluminium foil, just because I had some spare carbon and epoxy left over from a boat project. They could just as well be made in folded aluminium. Then comes the black plastic isolator. Mine are 13mm thick and IIRC were sourced from Burlen Carburetor Services. (you will also need 6No. gaskets, 3 per carb). I have used the K&N filters for many years, but am planning to fabricate a bespoke air box to allow a cold feed. I am hoping to use my existing filter elements within the new airbox. One further mod has been to add stub stacks to aid the flow into the carbs. I had some turned up using Delrin, but I believe other options are available commercially. Fitting them immediately increased the idle speed, which suggested to me that flow had been improved. Hope this helps. Shout if you need anything else or are struggling to find a fabricator (you never know my contact might be prepared to do another one). Ian Manifold-spacer-heatshield.pdf Stub stacks.pdf

Matt thanks for the pictures. There does look to be quite a gap between the adapter and the face of the manifold and this is almost certainly your idle problem. When I bought my Mk2 GT6 in 1977 it came with Stromberg 175 CD2 carbs, fitted onto steel adapters (probably SAH given the age). The PO had obviously just bought the bits and slapped them on, as the manifold hadn't even been opened out to suit (which I did PDQ). I have persevered with the 175 carbs, but despite the stiffness of the steel adapters, I still didn't feel that the mounting was secure, so I had the flanges of the manifold built up and re-drilled to suit the four bolt mounting for the Strom 175 (which is the same as the SU HS6 BTW). This allows room for a decent thickness isolator (readily available from Burlen etc.), a heat shield and K&N filters. The adapters found a new home a while ago. Despite this relatively unpopular (but not unknown) set up, using 2E needles the car actually runs very well and has good acceleration and economy (38mpg average on both the 2016 and 2018 RBRRs). One benefit of the 175s is that they have lipped seals in the carb body that makes them less susceptible to leakage around the throttle shafts. For what it's worth, Gareth Thomas (always controversial) thought that with a good head and a 'corrected' manifold the 2L cars should have had 175 carbs from the factory. If your inlet manifold has already been modified (I assume enlarged to suit the HS6s and modified internally to remove the imbalance on cylinders 2&5), then I suspect you are not going to want to start again with a 'standard' set up. I think the HS6s can be made to work, but would strongly suggest that you have the manifold altered further to sort out the mounting if you do. I can provided further details if it would help. K&N filters can be cleaned and re-oiled. Ian

The contact depth between the bearing and carrier is about 11mm, so I don't think it would be possible to assemble it wonky. Phil If you are pulling the box, check the condition of the slider that the carrier rides on, as these can become worn. What clutch did you fit? Ian

If you are having difficultly you could try this:- https://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewforum.php?f=9

Matt Can you post a couple of pictures of your carb set up please. That might help us troubleshooting. BTW have you had any dialogue with the PO regarding the current problems? Ian

If you have the skill to plaster a wall, you can certainly time a Triumph camshaft. Good luck.

Ha ha Mines even posher than Doug's. I haven't got' a raised block fitted with with interleaved plates', but I do have a shiny chrome filtered filler cap, a Smiths valve and a catch can!! Ian

Matt Firstly welcome to the GT6 club. They are great cars and I'm sure you will grow to love yours once the teething problems are sorted. I've had my Mk2 since September 1977 and there's always something to do. It sounds as though you have multiple issues. My initial thoughts for what it's worth:- High idle sounds sounds like an air leak. If the larger carbs have been fitted using adapter plates, these are a possible source of leaks. My car has Stromberg 175CD2s and I have ditched the adapters and modified the manifold to give 4 stud fixings. Correct float levels and clean fuel supply is critical (SUs and Strombergs) Huco fuel pump is excellent. Use only E5 fuel and set the timing to 12 deg dynamic using the strobe (as WSM) as a base setting. Reluctance to start (or intermittent starting) could well be the starter solenoid. Mine played up and has now been by-passed, which I can do as I have a high-torque starter which doesn't need the solenoid. I also have a Pertronix Ignitor 2 unit with a Flame Thrower coil. I think they have a good reputation for reliability. Let us know how you get on with your checks. Ian

Pete I think the Marina ones would be for a type 14 caliper. I can't find anything that lists a spring edge shim for a type 16P caliper.