Ian Foster

Original GT6 switches were made by Clear Hooters and the headlamp switch in particular has a reputation for being of a fragile nature. The original UKC8647 Clear Hooters switch was subject to a dealer recall in 1978, which involved replacing it with a Lucas item. Some mods are required to fit the Lucas switch and having seen one, I was very disappointed by its look and feel. I have managed to procure an original switch which I will carry as a spare and continue to treat my current switch with great care. I would assume that the original hazard switch is also made by Clear Hooters and any currently available items would be Lucas and therefore potentially have a different fitment. Ian

Yep...that's the one!

dangerous...don't go there and certainly don't add them all up, it'll only bring pain and resentment! Mine is currently on its third. The original non o/d box (started jumping out of third), a complete overdrive box harvested from a scrapyard Vitesse and 'rebuilt' by me and currently a 3 rail box with 1850 internals and a J type o/d built my Mike Papworth. Hopefully that's the last one. I do like the overdrive box and I think it very much part of the character of the car. Ian

Hi Gav Colour match is really pretty good. I use it to touch in chips on the car which was painted by STS in 2 pack. Clutch project is finished and feels pretty good, light, smooth and with a nice easy bite point. I even taught myself how to make s/s braided lines for the remote bleed. I have only driven the car a few miles as the tunnel is still out and the next job is to get the interior re-installed. My favorite job...not! Ian

Hi Gav I have an aerosol white 19 supplied by the club shop. The club shop labelling describes it as 'celly', but there is nothing on the actual can. The can of Halfords grey primer I have, describes it as acrylic and that it is 'compatible with virtually all types of automotive finishes including cellulose'. I have used the white 19 topcoat over the Halfords primer without any issues. Ian

Nigel Is that more static (idle) advance or a steeper advance curve. I'm running a Pertronix 2 with a Flamethrower coil, currently set to 12 deg by strobe, which works ok without any pinking. Other threads are also suggesting modern fuels can take slightly more advance. Ian

For us sailors the phrase 'there is no red port left' is often used. Ian

Paul I've just replaced the rev counter on my GT6. The original one has done 220k miles and as the engine and part of the dash was out, I thought why not. New cable and grommets supplied by CC. The inner on both the old and new cables can only be withdrawn from one end. I have fitted the new so that the inner would come out at the instrument end, which I believe supports the top of the inner properly and stops it dropping down. If yours is fitted this way, it should in theory pull out from the top unless significantly distressed as Doug suggests. I made up a tapered lead from nylon and heated and lubricated the grommet to get it over the ferrule. It's a bit tight! Ian

I have a couple of timber ramps I use to get the trolley jack under the front of my Honda S2000. An extra 2" was just enough to get the wheels of the engine hoist under the wishbones. Luckily I have just completed that stage. It's quite a task with a white chassis! Hope the removal goes well. It'll help if you have an assistant guiding the gearbox end and checking for snags. Ian

Tim It's interesting to see the variations in waterways front and rear. My early Mk2 block and original head both have the long lozenge shaped slots. The head I am currently using started life as a 219015 TR6 head and was substituted, as mine was cracked between the seats on #6 cylinder which is apparently a common problem. It was gas flowed and skimmed, but when I removed it after a few years use, I noticed that it had just a round hole at the rear. I went for a further skim and had the water passage at the rear opened out to match the the block (as original). It is possible that later blocks changed to just a round hole as per the TR6 head. Perhaps someone with a Mk3 could confirm. Ian

Hi Tim Not really an option if the h/g is blowing coolant. Mk2 manifolds do come up on ebay (there are both an exhaust and a inlet manifold with carbs at present), and you might consider collecting parts for a Mk2 head swop as a future project. A mk2 head is probably the trickiest bit to find, but I'm sure they are out there. A mk1 is still a good engine. Hope you get things sorted. Ian

Hi Gav Not quite a 'Rolls Royce' job, but much better than cracked and de-bonded lacquer. I was able to tidy up the gauges at the same time. The drivers side element with the speedo/rev counter is not too bad and will have to do for now. Not sure I can face taking that out! Ian

Just to bookend this topic. I have completed the refinishing of the dash panel and managed to find a small company (Phoxy Design) that were willing and able to produce a waterslide transfer. I gave them a section of the original lacquer with the lettering on it and they produced an A6 sheet with 12No. words on it which I trimmed to fit. Quite pleased with the results. If anyone is in a similar position, I have 'spares' available. Thanks to all for your suggestions. Ian

That's only if you are removing the complete top cover. You can remove just the remote with the 4No. bolts. I would also suggest you remove the starter motor to give more clearance to the top flange of the exhaust. Also remove the rocker cover (particularly if it is nice) to avoid denting/scratching it. I also swopped my usual long spin on oil filter for a stubby one. Not necessary if you have a standard filter. Easiest as a two person job and take your time. Ian

Aiden Having just pulled out my engine an o/d gearbox as a unit, I would suggest that it might be difficult to disengage the engine from the box whilst lifting the engine high enough for the sump to clear the chassis crossmember. Two possible options remove the gearbox first through the car (not ever my favoured option), then the engine can be lifted straight up (refitting the reverse procedure) turn the car round in whatever space you have, to allow removal of the engine and gearbox from the front. There may be things like the gearbox front oil seal that you might like to change whilst engine and box are separated. Ian

IIRC the rear slave cylinders of the servo equipped Mk3s are different to retain the correct balance. My Mk2 GT6 has a Girling Powerstop servo acting on all four wheels and I suspect was a dealer fitted extra. There is a section in the WSM covering fitment. Brake balance is fine. Ian

I've not had any particular issue setting up the mixture, but wonder whether it drifts as under bonnet temps rise (difficult to replicate with the bonnet open) and could be improved by de-activating the compensators. Pete and Doug say yes!. I've had mine apart and set them to start opening at 115F and fully open at 140F as per the Buckeye procedure, so I think they are operating as Triumph intended. They have both of the sealing washers which come in the overhaul kit. Decisions! Ian

Apologies for hijacking Dave's post, but I am currently tying to decide whether to disable the temp compensators on my 175CD2s fitted to my GT6. They are currently functional and set up according to the advice on the Buckeye Triumph website using a hot box to balance them. Opinions are often expressed that they should be adjusted shut (the small nut screwed tighter). Is that advice still current? Ian

And Austin Healy 3000s

1/4" 28 (TPI=threads per inch), 5/16" 24, 3/8" 24, 7/16" 20 and 1/2" 20 would be UNF. The coarser TPIs would equate to UNC. Not sure what the 1/8" NPT is. So you have a mixed set. Very useful. Ian

What he said!!!!!

No its just a close tolerance hole in both the bellhousing and engine back plate. By comparison the holes for the starter motor are standard clearance, so slightly bigger. Ian

You could also try Geoff at Gower and Lee, my go-to for Stromberg bits. The aluminium needle valve washer is standard in all the kits I have used. Ideally replace each time the valve is replaced, but probably not critical. I use a smear of red rubber grease to lubricate o rings and fuel lines for reassembly. (ends of fuel lines should be checked for burs) Ian

Actually no! I did have various other clutch issues though, which I am hoping to address with a meticulously executed round of fixes. Ian

As an addendum to Phil's original thread, I can confirm the apparently 'secret' or little known information that the Vitesse/GT6 rear engine plate and bellhousing should have a 3/8" dowel bolt at the 5 o'clock position. Two engine plates and a bellhousing inspected at Chez Jones....and yes they have it. My engine a gearbox separated today....and yes they have it as well. Mine had a 5/16" bolt at that location so I'll be replacing it with a 3/8" dowel bolt when I reassemble. I'll also be replacing the pilot bearing as I could have worn unevenly if the bellhousing was slightly off. Every day is a school day! Ian