johny
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Posts posted by johny
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dont understand Paul - theres a hole in the vertical link? and how does oil get out as it should be sitting trapped in the threaded section of the bronze trunnion?
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7 minutes ago, NonMember said:
On the face of it, without any deep thought or consideration of mechanical engineering, perhaps. But the bottom trunnion holds the weight of the car in tension. Ball joints are actually not a very good design for that. You'll note the Dolomite, which does have ball joints top and bottom, also has the spring on the top wishbone, so the joint that takes the weight is in compression. Much more surface area available that way.
That sounds reasonable given that the bronze threaded trunnion was actually patented by Triumph so they must have put some serious thought into it!
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ahhh I have a theory! On some cars disc brakes on the rear would be too powerful (the hub limits how small a disc can be fitted) so to avoid having to have a hydraulic compensator they use drums which are obviously less effective but matches the demands of the vehicle design....
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yes but they used a ball joint at the top so logic would dictate that you could use the same item at the bottom! I cant believe that a bronze casting with bushes plus machined screw thread on the upright (which needs filling with gear oil every 3000 miles) was cheaper than a ball joint and taper.....
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I never understood why Triumph went for the bottom trunnion design as surely it wouldnt have been more expensive to have an additional ball joint at the bottom. It would have solved all the problems of wear, play and routine maintenance and is what was used by other manufacturers in later designs.....
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If its one of the chinese examples it might need a bit of fettling as it was probably made using only a photo of an engine bay....
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Best go electric, he says opening the can of worms?
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18 minutes ago, JohnD said:
I very, very, very much doubt it.
I don't know when Triumph introduced the plastic fan, but China around 1960 was just beginning the Cultural Revolution. The Great Leap Forward had concentrated on heavy industry, producing pig iron in villages and ruining agriculture, leading to the Great Famine that killed as many as 40 Million people. This failure meant that a new revolutionary movement was necessary, hence the CR, the Litttle Red Book, Red Guards etc etc. Even if it was capable, China had far too many problems to think about making goods for Imperialist running dogs!
Japan is possible, but we did not have a global industrial transport system in those days. Raw materials and complete products would be exported/imported, but parts would be sourced from local or national suppliers, not from halfway around the world!
History and a knowledge of history, are so important. "Those who do not know history's mistakes are doomed to repeat them."
John
Reading the post is also very important. "Those who dont read correctly the posts are doomed to make mistakes"?
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I suppose cost also came into the decision back in the day - the plastic jobbies must have been so much cheaper although I bet they werent originally made in China?
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yes even with SS I think the bolt will seize in the tube but at least the bushes shouldnt be damaged by rusting of the tube which finishes em off in double quick time....
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think the seals are only intended to protect the tube and the bolt takes its chances (presumibly its galvanised or something). So with a stainless tube no need for seals and the bolt wont be any worse off...
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cant see it as I assume they changed the fan for better cooling and if that was achieved then more air must have moved. Moving more air means more load on the engine so absorbing more power not less. The weight reduction would only affect the acceleration of the engine and hence the car not the HP and then the difference would be minimal....
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no lacquer just anodised which is only a surface coating and once penetrated is not repairable. About the best you can do is try reduce the gouges as much as possible maybe with a fine file while minimising how much surface you remove from the surrounding areas.
Ive always thought that the bumper's finish lasts amazingly well but the downside is their fragility☹️
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yes on our cars the braking difference is small as we're pretty limited in possible tyre OD increase and also most people dont want to have the hassle of speedo correction but it must have an effect on those American custom motors with wheels up to 28" diameter?
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2 hours ago, poppyman said:
Personally i think it does not matter how wide or how big in diameter a wheel is, you only require the same brake pressure. You are after all only trying to stop the same weight. Yes i understand the the driveshaft to wheel theory, but that is going into the pulley and leveridge theory. Also stopping all depends on the amount of rubber on the ground and the surface.
Tony.
I dont know about the width factor but another way to think about the effect of overall diameter on braking is rotational speed. If you have a bigger OD then at a given speed the wheel will be turning at a slower speed and of course also the brake disc. Well the energy dissipated (heat) depends on brake design, disc speed and clamping pressure so if the first is unchanged but disc speed is reduced more clamping pressure will be required to achieve the same rate of energy dissipation (braking).
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No Iain its not width theyre talking about but overall tyre diameter. If you held your drive shaft in your hands and tried to stop it rotating while someone else turned the wheel (obviously with it free) you would find it harder the bigger the overall tyre diameter even though your assistant applies the same force in each case because they will have more leverage.
Its the same for your brakes as the pads will have to clamp harder for a given rate of deceleration the bigger the overall tyre diameter. However the most sensible thing is to stick as close as possible to the original overall diameter so you can avoid this and other possible issues....
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looking on the tyre comparison sites you could get 175 60 15 of which theres quite a range and they would be almost exactly the same size as my 165 80 13 (slightly bigger diameter than original) so as long as the wheel offset is the same there should be no clearance problem....
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had a Honda Civic ally jobbie in my Vitesse for a couple of years now no problems and at 50 quid delivered it was a lot cheaper than anything else I could find
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If you search a bit I've seen the same item at 90 delivered.....
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Theyd have to be very good for that price (I take it thats not fitted) and I personally would want to pay around 30 pounds each as I think top end tyres are wasted on my Vitesse taking into account how I drive, the milage I do, the conditions I drive in (dry n quiet) and the 50 year old design of my suspension....
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really recommend the 165/80 size as for me they give a great balance of steering weight, noise and footprint. Also drop the revs by a useful amount (I dont have overdrive) but these days theres limited choice as the main users used to be vans and caravans but things have moved on.....
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With the title on this thread its going to be a long painful search to find in the future.....
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Ive got minilites of the same size on my Vitesse and the studs which I believe are the same as yours have been fine with no modification. Of course I have used the correct wheel nuts for the wheels and these protrude well into the holes so that theres plenty of thread to screw onto the original studs.....
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might I suggest a smear of electrical contact grease on the copper disc. Bit difficult to source such a small quantity (might try an electrical repair shop) but will help maintain a good connection and stop squeak
Suspension rebuild kits
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
your right Doug, of course the nipple is in the vertical link and the oil is pumped out of the hole in the bottom of the threaded section where it then pools inside the trunnion.
I believe Paul has mixed up the names of the vertical link and trunnion....