iana

Thanks Dave, I'm intending to replace the HT leads - are the standard TSSC ones any good or are there better ones out there? I was going to order the ignition service kit as I want a dizzy cap / spare points / condenser / rotor arm.

Is there a simple way of verifying the position of number 1 lead and the rotor position? If not I’ll just accept it’s Ok. If no 1 and lead 1 are not in sequence would it run?

Thanks, I’ll run a couple of earth wires and hopefully that will fix the problem. I’m installing relays onto the lights in the near future so that will hopefully tidy things up a bit more

Because in the workshop manual it seems to show no1, 1 position back to how the cap is connected. It runs - I was checking the timing so had the manual in front of me so I checked against the book for piece of mind.

Whilst working through checking things, I cross referenced the ht leads to the cylinder and the workshop manual, it looks like the leads are 1 position out but in the correct firing order - is this an issue?

Spent the day cleaning 20 years on grime from the engine bay and I must have disturbed the wiring again. The earth wires on the lights are decidedly iffy - there’s a scotch lock connector that I think may have been a previous owner repair, can I just disconnect the earth wires (black) and install a pair of earth cables taken back to a suitable point - can anyone suggest a suitable earth point to connect to. Also on checking the earth strap on the steering rack to the chassis that had nearly worn through so I replaced it with a new earth wire - apart from the horn what else is earthed via this point (everything else seemed to work)

I’m just in the process of checking what dizzy on my vitesse mk1 as I want a need cap and some spare points etc. Its got Lucas on the side and 22D on the base. Glad I checked as I thought it was a Delco from parts booklets etc.

Thanks, so either will do, I will try the bp6es as they’re in stock. Things have definitely changed in the 10 plus years I’ve been away from classic cars, and not necessarily for the better.

can someone confirm the spark plugs I need for the vitesse 2l NGK BP5ES or BP6ES?

Thanks both, I’m happier now the heater is working (the car was toasty warm on the run yeaterday), the water seems to be flowing properly round the system, so it’s now just a case of renewing the thermostat and replacing the antifreeze so I know what’s in the system.

Managed to carefully remove the thermostat housing bolts, they were tight to say the least. Anyway they’re out and I’ve cleaned them up but wondering if it’s better to replace them - are they anything special or will a general bolt be ok? Also what’s the implication of running a summer stat all year round? We rarely get frosts or low temperatures where we live, the car is garages and if it was a bad winter the car wouldn’t be used. I’m thinking the summer stat would be better in the traffic etc (or will it cause the engine to overcool?)

Pete thanks, Ive googled the su carbed saloon and that looks like how I remember the setup on my GT6. I'm going to swap the smith valve hoses tomorrow and move the fuel hose to infront on the filters (i was surprised how warm the fuel hose was) Is there a preferred make of spark plug? (Not sure I understand the benefits of iridium plugs so Ill revert to standard plugs) Im also going to order a spare coil is a Lucas 12V sports a good option. I wouldnt have picked K&Ns but they came on the car. I need to see if theres an air box that will fit and then it can revert to a standard setup and take advantage of cooler air to the carbs.

STS recommended and fitted AAQ when they worked on the car, Im assumimg these are still there but will check whats in the car now in the week. Rightly or wrongly I'd discounted the carbs as its intermittent rather than a constant issue. Its usually at 50-60mph going up an incline and always when the car is hot so Id assumed something breaking down. The car has electronic ignition, intermotor coil, iridium spark plugs.

Anglefire, thanks, Ill source a couple of 'P' clips and re-route similar to your layout. Pete - I had clocked the pipe under the breather and have 2 new pipes waiting to be fitted (ran out of time before todays run) What effect would a restricted breather have? On a GT6 Mk3 I owned in the past a previous owner had fitted SU carbs and it ran really well (albeit HS6's), and now you commented on the carbs being piped together Im struggling to remember how they were connected but I vaguely remember a setup more like that in Angelfire's photo - Ill have to have a trawl through my old photographs to see if I have any of under the bonnet. I think I have the original invoice for the carbs as recommended by STS to the PO, I think this also detailed there recommended needles, so I will see if I can remember how to check whats in place.

Have you supported the fuel pipe where it goes over the filters?

Been following Paul H's thread about engine not happy cruising. Just returned from a trip out 70 mile each way with a stop on the way up and the car miss fired once on an incline but other than that fine, cruised up at 60mph. Coming back the car miss fired 3 times, twice on an inclined, the other time on the flat. The miss fire is random but only occurs when the car is fully warmed up after say a 20 min drive. The car starts fine, tickover at idle maybe a little fast at 1000rpm. Any pointers where to start looking? Im thinking spark plugs, coil or possibly fuel getting too hot over the carbs. The car has twin Su's and the fuel feed to the carbs is as the photo - Im wondering if this is causng a fuel vaporisation issue (can someone describe the syptoms) as when I got home an put the car away I lifted the bonnet to check all ok,and the carb to carb fuel feed was very warm but not hot.

Paul - thanks - I'd never heard of rivnut until your post - that would be an ideal solution.

I did consider unbolting the valance but the chrome over riders were well wedged in and I decided against it. The trim is back bolted on now with a good coating of wax behind, but I think it ideally needs a captive nut welded on (a task for another year)

I suspect you’re right about a PO bodge, I’m uncovering a few strange fixes at the moment.

I’ve taken the centre section off to spray protection wax behind, now I can’t fathom out how to refit it, it was fixed with a machine screw and nut, I can’t see a way of accessing the rear to fix the nut, on rimmers catologue I think it references pop rivets. Can anyone throw any light on how it’s fixed or a knack to accessing the rear of the valance.

I had a similar issue with my old GT6, the car was previously owned by a chap who used a fuel additive, somehow the foil covered disk had fallen into the tank. The car would tootle along fine for miles, the problem identified its self whenever I accelerated hard, the car would cut out and wouldn’t restart. I spent ages and a considerable amount of money replacing suspect parts and it still occurred. I eventually found the problem when in frustration after it had stopped yet again I removed the fuel pipe from under the tank - no fuel! Left the car for a while and then drove it home and proceeded to drain the tank to inspect the inside. Couldn’t see anything and as the last last dregs were removed the silver disc slipped across the fuel pipe - removed the offending item and the car was fine thereafter.

Pete, thanks for the explanation of how the reserve tap works, Ive had a go at tightening the nut as suggested, it was very loose, I will check later to see if the smell has gone and again tomorrow (it was certainly less noticable after I'd tightened the nut)

Pete Thanks for your help. Ive tried a temporary bodge for this weekend as we want to use the car. I have spent a couple of hours trying to find a detail showing how it all goes together for a proper fix - am I right in thinking its a captive threaded hole in the top of the tank, with a length of of curved pipe held in place with a brass nut? 47 is listed as nut and 48 is listed as seal. The brass nut did move when I moved the lever to the correct position so it could be loose.I cant find any refernece to this in either the workshop manual or the haynes manual.

Thanks Pete, that now makes sense why it worked at a 45 degree angle, I’ll learn my lesson about over filling the tank, I filled it to the brim this time, I’ll stop next time when it clicks off and see if that makes a difference. I’m having to re-learn all the quirks of old cars again!

Is there anything I could put round the valve to stop the seep? Someone suggested a soap bar. Daft question as I’ve never had a car with a reserve tank, can someone explain what happens inside the tank when the lever is rotated (puzzled as it was at 45 degree when I started looking)