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Colin

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  • Location
    Herne Bay, Kent
  • Cars Owned
    Royal Blue Triumph Herald 1148cc 1970 Saloon

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  1. Thanks for all the help and advice chaps. Grateful. It's a job waiting to be done when back from bodyshop. 😊
  2. Colin

    No hot air

    Hi chaps. I ran my Herald, rad cap off. All heater pipes came up hot before the rad water started to boil ! Just shut her down before everything got covered in boiling anti freeze! I guess, if the rad water boils visibly like that, that the stat is working (or hot water could not make its way to the rad, right?). So I'm guessing I'm safe from seizing the engine if rad cooling is available to me. Leaves me this conundrum:- windscreen vents put out virtually no warm air when the cabin vent is shut. Later, after a short run, I checked driver's side of the cabin vent and was horrified the air was not warm. Tried the passenger side which proved to be warm!! So how come that disparity for starters and, the fact that either way round, othing warm is coming through the window vents!!??!!
  3. Colin

    No hot air

    Hi Pete. I'm amazed you followed my post. Just re-read it. What do you/does anyone think about running her up to temp with the rad cap of - just to the point where the stat opens (if it will) and begin to see the water circulating? Surely at that point it'll be clear that the stat os - or isn't opening. This thing about taking heater box pipes off anx trying to ram water in seems wierd to me and a goid way of introducing even more air into the system . . . 🤔😊
  4. Colin

    No hot air

    Hi Pete. I'm amazed you followed my post. Just re-read it. What do you/does anyone think about running her up to temp with the rad cap of - just to the point where the stat opens (if it will) and begin to see the water circulating? Surely at that point it'll be clear that the stat os - or isn't opening. This thing about taking heater box pipes off anx trying to ram water in seems wierd to me and a goid way of introducing even more air into the system . . . 🤔😊
  5. Colin

    No hot air

    Have just developed the same prob with a couple of first tentative runs after much get-back-on-the-road runs:- have recently had heat from the vents whikst working on her and checking but on last test run I had no warmth from the vents (to remove the steaming up of window my body geat was causing). This won't risk the enginr seizing will it? But what's causing it? I have ordered a new 'stat and will replace unless I can find summat to test old one in :- but if it's an air block, what's causing it - and how to rid . . . ?🤔🤔
  6. Colin

    No hot air

    Have just developed the same prob with a couple of first tentative runs after much get-back-on-the-road runs:- have recently had heat from the vents whikst working on her and checking but on last test run I had no warmth from the vents (to remove the steaming up of window my body geat was causing). This won't risk the enginr seizing will it? But what's causing it? I have ordered a new 'stat and will replace unless I can find summat to test old one in :- but if it's an air block, what's causing it - and how to rid . . . ?🤔🤔
  7. Hi Paul, There were numerous ideas about using an intermediary tube that fitted in the narrow gaitor neck and passed over the rack knuckle. I had nothing handy and making one from a coke bottle didn't work for me (nor any other plartic bottle necks, sadly). I ended up doing it what I thought was the 'hard way', but found it wasn't that bad in the end! Not too much of a struggle actually. Used some decent jubilee clips. Robert's your Uncle. Glad your job was successful, too. 😊
  8. Hi folks. Hazards dor my 1200 saloon:- Apologies this is done from my phone:- I'm trying to get to grips with the Club hazards kit instructions. I'm no electrician though. Seems to me, given that both starter solenoid and indicator flasher unit are all passenger-sided, I'm going to need a reel of cable at the very least to extend the relatively short cabling supplied on the unit . . . which I obviously intend to affix on the driver's side. The first instruction is regarding connecting the switch to a starter solenoid live feed. I can see what I think must be the live feed at the solenoid; the positive battery cable and what must be live to the alternator comes from it and I DO have a spare spade tag at the same point on the solenoid. But it IS the opposite side of the car from where the switch is to be situated. Second instruction concerns identifying connections to the flasher unit (replaced in the past). Couldn't see any spare tags on that unit though. Has anybody done this job and might be able to walk me through the connections please?? Pics are always good . . . Cheers, Colin.
  9. Thanks, Chums! I'd prolly go with Robert Plant's 'velvet glove' technique!! 🤣🤣
  10. Colin; Pete . . . many thanks. Yrs, I have been wondering about the rear side glass rubbers (renewal of). And, don't forget, I only want to lift the lid enough to get to the rust developing on the rear shoulders. After that, I'll leave to someone with 4 hands and more expertise! Best, C.
  11. Chaps . . . Herald 1200 saloon. An earlier post of mine generated advice that I should not single handedly (and not having done the job before) attempt changing the screen rubbers. This previous advice re screen rubbers I took to heart meaning also that the rear side screen rubbers are probably just as tricky. Fair enough. But I want to get to the rear body wing ‘shoulders’ which start under the rear side screens and extend alongside the boot rear deck seam (photos). I have Lindsay Porter and Peter William’s "Guide to Purchase and DIY Restoration", which describes the consummate ease of removing the Herald roof, but shows a Coupe rather than saloon. I wondered what or how the rear side screen rubbers are fixed to the lower bodywork (car side) at this point and, if I tried to ease the roof to allow access to the rear wing shoulders I want to attend to, whether they would adhere to the body or lift with the roof removal, however slight that may be (remember, solo working here). Moreover . . . ARE they not refittable by one person? And then there are implications for rear deck rubber and roof header rubber seal issues. Exacerbated by this is my grinding wait for someone who will do some body welding work coming back to me to say he is ready to do my Herald . . . so should I even bother in the interim, or wait until he can attend to matters, because if I partially remove or completely remove, I may not get it back together sufficiently to drive it to his works thereafter! All advice welcome. Best, C.
  12. Thanks Pete! I would imagine it'd be a question of getting a Solex part number!! Cheers though - I'll deffo be check8ng him out 😉😉
  13. Hey Mad4 . . . ! That's really useful info., thanks ever so. Best, C.
  14. Cheers Gary. I now have several sources of info and good quality parts purchases by the looks of it!! Best to All. C
  15. Pimp my Vit :- Thanks! Those outer two screws in the lower left set deffo look the part. Not sure about the other two! 😊
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