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Colin

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  • Location
    Herne Bay, Kent
  • Cars Owned
    Royal Blue Triumph Herald 1148cc 1970 Saloon

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  1. Message to Colin Lindsay; Colin, can you please issue me Pail Copeland's correct e-address (you have my private e-mail address if need be)? I have an urgent need to purchase however many are needed to allow the guy finishing off my 1200's bodywork.The adjustment rods are at full stretch and he has no further play. In the Club magazine, PC's e-address I think, was published incorrectly. I tried a variation, but no go . . . Thanks in advance. Best, Colin Winn
  2. Thanks, Both! Canley's looked the original part number up - no longer available. Then, they must in the past have needed to discover what was originally used and identified 1/4" UNF. So have some arriving soon hopefully. Grateful for the advice regarding what is frequently used and how to identify size designation! Best, CW
  3. Hi Folks, I have a missing rear roof to deck nut that should fit on the bolts that fit through attached to the roof (as I understand it from the guy doing the work). Does anyone know what the missing nut designation is? He says it's 11mm (I think this may be across flats?!). He says the bolts are fine threaded - So I'm guessing the originals are UNF . . . but what designation? Half Inch?? And from where might I acquire said nuts? All ideas welcomed - thanks. Best, Colin W
  4. Hi. I posted somewhere else - an accident my ex-wife had in my absence in our Herald 1200 saloon following rear end clunking for some considerable time:- I too, had multiply changed all the UJ's (definition of madness doing the same thing over and over). I'm now pretty sure it was one rear half shaft (yoke end) pin-through-pressed spline joint broke somehow. Everything became loose at rear end and she and my daughter were lucky not to have crashed. The clunk had puzzled me for donkey's - and I still think to this day that I would have had NO WAY of figuring out that the pin was broken/coming loose and would allow the splined shaft to come away from the yoke. I sincerely hope it won't happen to anyone else. Stay safe.
  5. HI folks, The chap renovating my 1970 Herald 1200 has unfortunately dropped the rear number plate light unit glass. Rather not buy a whole unit with all the gubbins inside - just the glass. Can anyone confirm the markings on the glass please? For instance, SAE R68 embossing and - LUCAS L766 ENGLAND If that's what's on a 1200, then I may have found one on the 'net . . . Thanks for any available help!
  6. Thanks for the advice from the history of such a thread. I found it just easier to buy a complete half shaft assembly and fix up. Obviously hoping the pros have used all the relevant components icluding solid not rolled, pins. The one that 'went', was fitted from new . . . Best, C.
  7. Thanks, JagNut Mike! That's very helpful! 😉 Best, Colin (Winn).
  8. Hi Chaps, Word of caution and I hope this might assist:- because of a.n. other car failure, my Herald became or every day car. I too, had a clunking from what I thought was the diff - or possibly a U/J on the way out and had only limited time to investigate (because how much time can you afford to have your everyday car off the road when rural- and with kids). Trying to do the 'quickest' thing, I changed the half-shaft U/J's, as there didn't seem to be excessive play in the diff (Lucas Services had replaced years before). But the clunk still continued. When I was away from home, my wife and daughter nearly had a bad accident as the rear drive began - we now know - to come apart. At the diff end of your half-shafts is a yoke into which the U/J is inserted. You will note that the half-shaft, at the yoke end, is splined and pressure fitted into the yoke, with a cross-through-pin pressed through as security just in front of the yoke. Well, I don't know what the chances are of that joint failing, but fail it did - and I have never heard of such an incident from anyone else ever. And while all the other rear suspension elements held together, that half-shaft caused all sorts of steering problems. Fortunately, there was no harm done except a very shaken couple of family members who were loathe to drive the car again. I bought a complete, assembled half-shaft set from Brimmer Bros and fitted (old half-shaft came in handy to lever the leaf spring). Problem solved. SO:- Please, please, check the half shaft security pins for veracity. BTW; not sure if those fully assembled half-shaft sets are still available, but they save a hell of a lot of grief when you consider all the other dismantling which would have to take place! Best, Colin
  9. Decades ago, when I was even greener than I am today, Lucas Services, who used to do our MOT's, advised the Herald needed a new Diff (along with two new rear hub bearings which they then couldn't get out even with multiple tons fo puller force). Of course it wasn't needed, but because of my stupidity I agreed and they too, put in a Diff with no drain plug, about which I was later most aggrieved . . . why wouldn't you . . . ??!
  10. Hello Mike & fellow enthusiasts; Mike . . . congrats in removing the water pump nut. I too, should like to be furnished with water temp and oil pressure info inside the cockpit (1970 1200 Herald saloon). However, I'm the type who doesn't have the expertise (or relevant equipment) to re-thread anything should it all go horribly wrong on a removal attempt! I've discovered that when trying to remove old and previously unmolested nuts, working them as if to tighten to begin with (obvs after loads of WD40 has soaked in for days), can work wonders and although counter-intuitive, often works well. My question to you is this:- what type of sender did you acquire to fit into that aperture (5/8s as Pete Lewis said??) and from where is it available please? From this point on, what variety of sender was it (again, Pete Lewis describes 2 types) and was the relevant gauge easy to find, and connect to? I suppose my 3rd question would be; what kind of temperature ranges should a reasonably healthy engine display at the gauge . . . Nine months have dragged by and I am hoping to get my Herald back from my metal worker before too long (bonnet and front wheel arches rebuild, front sidelight areas repaired, wheel arch repairs, tread plates renewed, rear wing 'shoulder' repairs etc etc), which means that I shall mostly be back to ensuring her mechanics are as sound as can be given she's on 147k miles, original engine (still going strong). At which point I can hopefully follow Colin & Pete's instructions for flushing the cooling system out, as he spotted congealed gunge in the thermostat housing and, the heater has rarely put out any significant heating - which made Winter in rural France when I was there precarious to say the least! Looking forward to hearing from you. Best, Colin
  11. Thanks for all the help and advice chaps. Grateful. It's a job waiting to be done when back from bodyshop. 😊
  12. Colin

    No hot air

    Hi chaps. I ran my Herald, rad cap off. All heater pipes came up hot before the rad water started to boil ! Just shut her down before everything got covered in boiling anti freeze! I guess, if the rad water boils visibly like that, that the stat is working (or hot water could not make its way to the rad, right?). So I'm guessing I'm safe from seizing the engine if rad cooling is available to me. Leaves me this conundrum:- windscreen vents put out virtually no warm air when the cabin vent is shut. Later, after a short run, I checked driver's side of the cabin vent and was horrified the air was not warm. Tried the passenger side which proved to be warm!! So how come that disparity for starters and, the fact that either way round, othing warm is coming through the window vents!!??!!
  13. Colin

    No hot air

    Hi Pete. I'm amazed you followed my post. Just re-read it. What do you/does anyone think about running her up to temp with the rad cap of - just to the point where the stat opens (if it will) and begin to see the water circulating? Surely at that point it'll be clear that the stat os - or isn't opening. This thing about taking heater box pipes off anx trying to ram water in seems wierd to me and a goid way of introducing even more air into the system . . . 🤔😊
  14. Colin

    No hot air

    Hi Pete. I'm amazed you followed my post. Just re-read it. What do you/does anyone think about running her up to temp with the rad cap of - just to the point where the stat opens (if it will) and begin to see the water circulating? Surely at that point it'll be clear that the stat os - or isn't opening. This thing about taking heater box pipes off anx trying to ram water in seems wierd to me and a goid way of introducing even more air into the system . . . 🤔😊
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