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Colin

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Everything posted by Colin

  1. Ah; well . . . When the Gov began to alert us that 4* leaded was to disappear, I took advantage of swapping to a John Kipping (ledge!) unleaded head. That was decades ago! So clearly the hardened valves and seats have done their work, too!!😉
  2. Thanks Johny! Needed that corroboration! I am amazed - given it's the original engine on 143k miles. I've always regularly changed the oil, though! 😉
  3. I think I have answered my own question . . . I think it's 'bar' . . . ? Am I correct? And, that those numbers stack up to be quite reasonable??
  4. Hi Chaps; My Swiss chum came over with his compression tester. Took out the plugs and turned my 1147 Saloon on each cylinder. He's now gone so I can't ask, but whereas your figures state psi (?) My cylinders were measured as follows; Cyl 4: 10 Cyl 3: 10 Cyl 2: 9.5 Cyl 1: 10 Does anyone know what units these would be?? Best, Colin
  5. Hi All. Really, really idle question. Why does the Herald rear suspension angle inward, when I've observed the Spit set up angle completely the opposite way. 'Specially puzzling as I've always thought the two chassis sets are interchangeable?? ('Assume' makes an ass (out of) u (&) me!!). Is it therefore a differing suspension set up off the same basic chassis or . . . . ??? Still willing to be educated at age 65. Size 12 shoes. Cheers, C.
  6. Cheers Ed. The spring shown in the photo looks pretty heavy duty. Ball point springs are pretty weedy generally, aren't they?? Useful info, though. How could you tell it was duff? Was it deformed, truncated or just clearly very weak? Best, C.
  7. And, of course; I must get the job done so as to make the car impenetrable to thieves !!🤣🤣 C.
  8. Thanks, Ed et al, Really good to look at:- I've never taken one apart! So, looking at the pices, I'm not really sure which bit of those parts has given out?? Any guidance please?? A close-up, maybe, now I know about the full component list?? Many, many thanks everyone! Best, C
  9. Thanks gully. Good advice! I do stand accused of being too gentle - I hate slamming car doors & bolts for example! Cheers! C.
  10. Pete, I posted today about leccy ign - can you take a look - see if my message makes sense. It's on your profile (I think!!🤣). Cheers, C.
  11. Thanks guys - it is a roll pin . . . I'll keep hammering from time to time (not a priority job on her atm)!! Best, C
  12. Thanks Pete, Pretty much as I expected. Would be nice to keep the pin intact - will never find another one like it!! Have you ever had one apart?? Am I right about a worn tooth lock inside (or similar)?? Cheers, C
  13. Dear Chaps; My driver door quarter-light latch no longer click-locks. I can see the press-fit securing pin that is holding the lever on the unit (inside the lever where I reckon the problem is - probably a dog-leg tooth worn at the edges or summat, needing filing sharp again . . . ? But do you think I can punch it out to investigate?? Not a hope. I've tried punching it out in both directions but to date . . . zippo. Does anyone have a fool-proof method for me please? Cheers, Colin.
  14. Hi Pete,

    I recall you posting something about how an owner (I have a 1200 Herald saloon) can check when the newly fitted electronic ign. spark takes place, with a 12V bulb, to set static timing.

    I can't find that post - hand have read loads of other in the forum.

    Could you please repeat??

    With my bro', we recently fitted the Club electronic ignition. We didn't change ig timing at all and she runs OK. 

    I read some elec ign units require timing adjustment for our cars, but I can't see any tech details for this.

    Unlike static points timing which I used to do with a Gunson volts/points meter and/or 12V bulb, keeping it nice and easy, it seems I have to use a tachostrobe and dynamic readings with an electronic?? I think you have a tip for using more crude items (12V bulb - but clipped across which terminals, as the LT connector has gone . . . ?)

    Further confusion :-

    1) some fella on this forum with a GT6 was writing about retarding his ign. setting, from 10 to 13 degs BTDC or similar. Surely, that's not retarding; that's advancing??? Just a question about whether advancing or retarding really.

    2) My Gunson Tachostrobe (which I fear and have never used) leaflets in the pack (from back in the day) say that with unleaded fuel the ign timing may need retarding. But of course since then, we've had changes in Ethanol content of fuel . . . so which way does the 'standard' Herald timing need to go???

    She runs well enough (for 145k miles), but my gut says she's not as smooth as could be at idle or when going up the rev range.

    Thoughts, please?? 

    Cheers, Colin.

     

     

     

     

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. Colin

      Colin

      Single Solex B30 PSE carb..

    3. Colin

      Colin

      Have been using Shell Super (not sure of the RON). Alleged to be a 'good' fuel.

      C.

    4. Colin

      Colin

      Shell V-Power is 99 RON apparently.

      C.

  15. Folks:- with poly-bush, body-mount kit in hand and with photos you have kindly supplied showing some of the washers and captive nuts used, can anyone kindly supply an 'exploded' diagram type drawing of which goes where, please? My guess is the captive nut (with steel washer?) will be inside each of the tubular mount brackets, receiving a long bolt from underneath the side rail. Question is; are there other washers deployed in between the top of the side rail and tubular mounts?? Sorry to be so continually ignorant about this matter. Best, Colin.
  16. Appreciated! One of the two, supplied by the Brimmer Brothers, did NOT have bracing pieces and I had to pester them to get those. I haven't actually checked to see if North West Kent garage welded them in, yet but will be bearing that in mind - thanks for said reminder!😉 Just for info, Chic Doig is undertaking fabrication of a repair panel for the 'B' post, sill-round-to seat-heel-kick corrosion that's currently there. Is welded to the 'B' post support underneath, apparantly. Best C
  17. Absolutely! To be fair, there's very little original in a car of 1970 vintage! Dashboard. Engine. That's about it!! 🤣 Yes, a 7 blader is probably the way to go. Why quieter?? 🤔 Best, C.
  18. Mainly due to the high Summer temps, I guess. Original 4-blade steel fan in place currently. And being in the S.E. there is always a huge chance, wherever I drive, of getting stuck in a jam for long periods. If she's running at tickover, crawling along in 40+C I feel she'd need all the help she could get - that 4-blader isn't going to cut it.🙂
  19. 🤣 Trouble is, Pete, it won't be me doing it!! I never learned to weld, sadly. I do all the other works. Club leccy ign went on recently, Club hazards got fitted a while ago. Havr some LED reversing lights to put in next. Holding an electric fan . . . am un two minds about this though. But don't know why. 😀
  20. Chaps, have ordered the fitting kit as you know - just realised that (I think) there aren't any of those captive nut on flange pieces as shown in previous photos. I wonder what else I'll be short of . . . ? As you can see, I've not had thisjob undertaken before and the outside of the car is intact, so without removing the sills, I can't really see what fittings are involved.😀
  21. I'm a big fan of using items that have dual purpose, too!! I certainly don't always pay through the nose for stuff (except lately!!) 😄
  22. Chaps:- Just as an update . . . James Paddock have two body mounting kits available (for the Herald), one using Poly material. Please see picture. The one Pete alluded to is for Spits apparantly. You'll now tell me that they're both the same . . . LOL?!! 😁 Best, Herne Bay Col
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