[Winter Heat Required]

That's kind of you to say. Always been a 'needs must' scenario! I'm sure plenty of owners are or have been in.that situation! 😉😊

[Winter Heat Required]

Hi Chris A.

I will admit to having done a single-handed clutch and starter flywheel ring gear change from inside the car; the cylinder head to a Kipping supplied hardened valve seat unit to accommodate unleaded when it changed all those years ago; several lots of prop and half shaft U/J joints; Trunnion changes; front upgraded springs and probably the hardest was a completely assembled half shaft assembly - the worst bit being trying to lever the leaf spring to accommodate the eye bolt plus all other joint alignments whilst doing all this single-handedly! Eventually achieved - but 2 pairs of hands would have been much much easier!!

Pretty much everything but any matrix/ heater box work (low priority!!). 😊

Have a great weekend All. 

C.

[Winter Heat Required]

OK Pete - thanks.

What is your considered opinion as to whether crystals will potentially shift any heater matrix blockages (crusted old anti-freeze, further sludge deposits) not shifted by the rad flush I initially used? 

Probably a hypothetical question I guess . . . ? 😊

[Winter Heat Required]

Hi Wagger 😊

'Twas me who has been questioning all aspects of the (lack of heat) emanating from the heater in my 1147 1970 Herald saloon. 

Did I use the crystals? No. I just used a proprietary product. I DID drain everything (block drain too), ALL pipes off; at the rad., and heater. 'Stat housing opened up. Pretty much as full a flush as I could achieve with everything in situ..

I was concerned about using soda crystals as I've not used them ever before. But I know white vinegar boils up a treat and loosens limescale etc..

I back-flushed everything I could with the hose - sure enough, the heater matrix shoved some nasty brown stuff out. 

Now - for me - using the crystals, the thing would be how much expansion space would need to be left - Pete says refill the rad half full once the crystal solution is in:- I can't see into the rad sufficiently to know where half way is (I know, I could have figured it out at one point during the ondoing pipe/reconnecting pipe processes). He runs the car 2-3 times over the next few days leaving the solution in. What if a half rad-fill is insufficient to cool the car at temperature - I'd be concerned about it overheating. Anyway - I might try it at some future point. My next conundrum IS (because I've left off doing anything), a really hard to operate heater cable. I am yet to disconnect, lube and refit. It sticks halfway in pulling it out (to the dash vent demisting setting I really want). Now, if left in cabin heat setting, the carpet becomes warm - so there IS some heat being generated in the matrix. Having fettled the box to dash vent pipes, with blower on, I got 50 years of dust out of one vent - but not the other!

I too only recently changed the cardboard g'box tunnel for a Club plastic one - hugely heat reflective proofed on the exhaust underside and covered in thinnish sound proof adhesive panels cabin side. New carpet. All that seem to leave little air passage to the cabin even if I wanted it to the cabin.

So when (in this thread), our friend wuth a soft-top says he's plenty warm enough in Winter, top down I am firmly of the opinion my matrix is NOT doing as it should. It has still to be gunged up!

You can tellI have never in 35 years done more dismantling to this system than described above (was a daily car for years - so no time for off the road experimentation).

My thing now is, even if I can get the cable working, I may buy an old D-G heater box, dismantle and find a matrix builder to renew its old one. Then swop old for refurbed.

As far as I know, I didn't suffer any air locks in the reconnection process. How can you tell? I renewed the top heater hose and couldn't shift it once on sufficiently to minimally disconnect and wait for new anti freeze to show itself such that I knew no air was in the system!

I'm such a rank amateur!! 

Best,

C.

[Winter Heat Required]

Iain T - YES! I know what you mean!

Rubber washers might help (I've often found the cork gasket leaks) but I think the breather cap is a big fume output issue!

[Winter Heat Required]

Chaps:- my comments were mere conjecture. I have a new bonnet to deck seal and a new and well sealed gearbox cover (Club issue).

BUT . . . I have just noticed from actually bothering to read one of my workshop manuals, my previously posted pics of the heater and direction of flow to cabin or Screen vents were completely the opposite of what happens!!

Just thought I'd better mention it . .  

In reality;

1) Control knob in - heat goes to cabin

2) Control knob middled - heat to screen vents and cabin

3) Control knob out - heat to screen vents for demisting.

But then you already knew this (as did I actually!!).

Great weekend everyone.

[Winter Heat Required]

Good thoughts! 😊

[Winter Heat Required]

Begs even more questions:- one would have thought the engine bay would've been capable of supplying air enough for the heater. Is the bonnet grille then a device to introduce a modicum of fresh air rather than the fumes which typically emanate from a 70's engine??! 🤔😊

[Winter Heat Required]

Ah! Thanks Both.

I DO like a photo of dismantled items. Most things become clear accordingly!

"To let water out . . ." Because of condensation build up, presumably??

Cheers, Both

[Winter Heat Required]

Excellent suggestions - thanks both. I can see from the exploded parts view of the heater there is supposed to be a plenum - can't say I've ever seen it in 35 years of ownership!

There are wires through that too, are there? Hmmm. Time for some more dismantling says I.

Thanks to All once more 🙂

Best,

C.

[Winter Heat Required]

Hi Gents:- 

I'll describe that I took the dash vent finishers off for the renovator to have a clear run at re-rubbering the front screen, minimising his required effort. Probably a mistake as when I recently repossessed it, the wires I'd looped so that I could re-align the steel vents and place the screws in easily had been 'lost'. Much angst, scraped knuckles and delicacy were involved to manoeuvre, in particular, the one behind the glove box!

That said, and having now gone through the flush exercise (not with soda crystals - sorry Pete L), I reported back that the carpet at the lower heater directional flap point seemed to get toasty enough!

In amongst the helpful comments about upgrading blower and DG valve checks, I mentioned that I was having control cable issues - so I'll now elaborate on that and visually show what I have. 

Firstly - most recently, if I pushed the control in (as I understand it this directs blow to the vent tubes feeding the dash vents for de-misting purposes), the last motion saw the outer sheath moving. So, I've tightened that up and it happens no longer. I also described that I once snapped the inner wire fixing screw off - and have used electrical 'choc' blocks to affix its pivot point (works well enough).

However (and as far as I can recall this has always been the case - hence dash varnish crazing) - and I show the three main positions available to the control in the pic), to pull the vent flap completely as far back as it can be (which would mean maximum cabin heat, right?), the action is EXTREMELY stiff - and is pretty much the same in the opposite direction when closing. Hence you can see the cracking of the old dash varnish/lacquer - the motion required flexes the dash at that point.

I should explain that I have as far as possible oiled/WD40'd down the cable, the vent flap pivot points both sides and it still remains as stubborn.

Can anyone think of an explanation/suffer from this phenomenon themselves/think of a solution??

I took a short run yesterday and plenty of really old dust from where I've been agitating things blew out of the passenger side dash vent mainly - not so much driver's side. Also, passenger side seemed to blow warmer than the driver's side - and as far as Chris A's (I think it was) comment saying his heater keeps him warm even in his soft top - well, I couldn't be more jealous . . . !! 🙂

Looking forward to everyone's input as usual . . .

Best,

C.

PS Apologies first under-dash photo a bit blurred.

 

[Gearbox Fulcrum Pin Herald 1200]

Colin:- Many thanks for that picture. Reminds me absolutely - thanks.

 

Danmi:- Noted!!

Best,

C.

[Gearbox Fulcrum Pin Herald 1200]

Thanks Gents,

Again, something I last did in France . . . change of clutch and starter flywheel ring. Probably used the same crinkle interference fit washer which to be fair would not have been as brill as when new . . . but it was our main car with another off the road!

Colin L. Really . . . those bushes are flange to flange when in place, over the interference fit washer?? I don’t recall that I have to say. But I deffo bow down  . . . . 😀

Best All.

C.

[Winter Heat Required]

Thanks for the In-Out shake it all about info! 

Too many permutations really! 

I'll see what I can do putting the felt back on the heater flap, make sure the flap/vent cable is operating properly and I may even silver insulation tape round the heater-to cabin-foam; try and minimise transient heat loss. 😉

[Winter Heat Required]

53 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

the rotating paddle flaap thingy  has three basic positons which direct the air flow 

shut   feet   screen    if halfway between either it will do its best to split the flow 

its only 2 nuts and the cable clamp to remove the thing  and it is a very crude device 

which relies on sticky tape felt and degraded sponge foam 

repair is simple .

if you can fit the hoeses direct to the heater matrix stubs you can bypass the valve ok 

the tube under the manifold and its  adaptor into the back of the pump can block up 

really needs removal and given a clean out   the adaptor into the pump can block completely 

Pete

Pete:- Would have thought flap shut would eliminate hot air passage into cabin and concentrated flow to dash vents? Pulling knob partially out I can understand woukd split flow between dash vents/cabin - or fully - out would surely concentrate flow into cabin . . . ??🤔

Shan't be able to get to it until next week now, sadly . . . 

Best All.

C.

[Winter Heat Required]

13 hours ago, Chris A said:

When you flushed the heater, in both directions, I assume you got water passing through which means the matrix is at least partly clear. Did you do it with the valve in place? If so it ought to mean the valve works. You could try using a hose on the valve detached from the heater.

Hi. Yes, I flushed with the valve in open position and flushed from all directions. Plenty of flow through and out of the box. Very brown and yuck to begin with but carried on till clear. The under manifold pipe - would that not be subject to exposure from the prop. rad. flush? 

 

[Winter Heat Required]

Agree with everything said - there was an awful lot of window        cloth-wiping and freezing with every window full open just in order to be able to see where to drive in its last full every day outings! 

How can I tell if the valve needs replacing? I did hose flush it through as much as I could . . . 

Best,

C.

[Winter Heat Required]

Wow Chris. That sounds awesome. I don't think the tubes are split. I electric tied the top of one to thd steel vent the other day . .  

So I'm going try to sort the seals and cable control out. 

In theory in a saloon the heater should really be able to do its job. 

For me, after this, I can only think the matrix is probably bunged up. 

I may try the soda crystal method next. 

Possibly buy a scrappy matrix; stŕip it; see how it works etc, then see if anyone will rebuild its core etc..

Best to All.

C.

[Winter Heat Required]

Thanks Pete, Doug.

Before going away for new metal, I did lose a piece of felt from the lower flap. I have held on to it and can probably re-glue. What I'm really struggling with (repeating that this is one of the few elements I've never taken out of the car), is at what stage air is directed to the screen vents (I need a rudimentary sketch!). 

Pete, are you saying that when that flap is shut, all the air goes to (or blown by the fan) the screen vents? 

Is that correct?

So actually, if I'm missing one or both the 'closing' seals on that lower flap, the heater air will leak into the cabin and there will be less to go to the screen vents??

Have I got that right?? 

Could be a simple fix - and I'll certainly be putting back (if not improving) those felt seals.

It may make some difference hopefully.

Doug:- if I was electrically minded, I too, would be having a go at beefing up the fan performance! 

Confirmation of my understanding (or not), welcomed! 

Thanks Both.

C.

[Winter Heat Required]

So:- just to round things off a little, yesterday I drained the system and flushed with the proprietary flush compound I held. Ran her up to temperature and thereafter for the 10 mins required.

Drained the rad; took out the block water drain plug, opened and removed the thermostat housing taking the 'stat out; took all the heater matrix hoses off.

Flushed each and every element forward, backward every which way possible with a hose using clean tap water. The heater matrix did indeed spew some immensely brown muck content - although tbh, I expected much more, perhaps even solid gunge to have been expelled.

Put it all back together again; new thermostat (I had been holding); one new heater pipe required (I held); refilled the system with 30% anti-freeze mix and ran her up.

Some heat at the dash vents, but not overwhelmingly so. Noticed the front of the gearbox cover was quite toasty and clearly some heat was entering the cabin (although why I want a toasty front carpet as opposed to warm feet is beyond me).

SO I ASSUME (and we all know what assumptions make of you and me!), that the heater is giving out heat, maybe that I just can't direct it as required (fan runs OK but seems really feeble - especially at dash vents).

I know I have in the past had issues with the vents cabling (broke the cable tightening screw once and have had to use 'chocolate' block electrical connectors to even get the cable to move. Perhaps it's that whereby I can't get the direction to the dash vents I need? That'll be with the dash knob pulled completely out, won't it?

Did I see somewhere else a description of whereabouts any heat from the matrix is being directed by the pulling out of the knob by stages - with on'e head under the dash one can see pushing in the pulled out knob closes the cabin flap, but where the knob needs to be for maximum dash vent operation is pretty invisible (unless one has had these things out of the car and observed them in the past - which I haven't.

So that's where I'm at chaps.

Best,

Colin W

 

 

[Gearbox Fulcrum Pin Herald 1200]

Hi Chaps,

It's currently in situ, but I noted whilst doing something else - and quickly whacked back in, the clutch fork fulcrum pin wanting to make it's way up and out of its proper flush position!

Does this mean the tolerance ring is a bit worn/naff and no longer fit for purpose? And if so, can I/would I be able to whizz it out and replace both items whilst it IS still in situ?

I have a nasty feeling this would really be a split the gearbox from the engine job . . . 

Would rather not keep banging it back in position with all the regular observation that'd go with it every few miles . . . 

Best,

Colin (W)

[Winter Heat Required]

Thanks Colin. Didn't know such rad caps existed!

[Winter Heat Required]

Clive:- Re your earlier . . .

"The other "tender spot" is the pipe under the manifolds. It has a small hole for the side T , easily blocked up. In fact, if in doubt about the pipe it may be worth replacing. (stainless pipes are not bad value)"

It has a small hole for the side T ?? Does it? I hadn't spotted that. What does it 'T' into, then?

Best,

C.

[Winter Heat Required]

Thanks Pete! Yes, getting the wife involved could prove quite lively!!

[Winter Heat Required]

Chaps - thanks for that info re Dg valves - very useful!

PETE:- in your missive about the way you run the car up to temperature (the soda crystal flush method), you said also leave the 'stat housing open.

Re my recent rad off, reverse flush experience, once back on and refilled (leaving rad cap off to assess water/antifreeze levels), the whole engine bay got properly soaked in pretty damn hot fluid at the point the 'stat must have opened - the rad burping and belching out of its cap opening.

Will this not be exacerbated by my also opening the 'stat housing?

I can see it's advantage  - getting the cleaner through that orifice as well - but I'm concerned about the collateral soaking in hot soda crystal water!!

What's your experience/tip for minimising this??

Cheers,

Colin (the other one).