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Colin

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Posts posted by Colin

  3. Magnetic sump plug

    in Engine

    Posted

    Yowsa Wowsa! So Kevin; you're saying when doing an oil change with one of these babies on, that you take the sleeve and filter off at the same time. Then fit a new oil filter and thereafter attach the sleeve in position once more, yes?

    So the old filter and any grindings come away when disposing of the old filter rather than them perhaps falling back into the engine.

    OK. Duly noted! Thanks 😃

    Paul - I reckon a gearbox magnetic plug is probably even more important! Look what it did for you! 

    Best, 

    Colin

  5. Magnetic sump plug

    in Engine

    Posted

    Which is best?? Ideally I'd like to drill a sump plug and tight-fit a bar magnet - but then I realised there's also these slim-jim new types that are very strong . . . . except they might loose themselves from the plug a little too easily . . . 

     

    Best, C.

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  7. Magnetic sump plug

    in Engine

    Posted

    PTFE tape, Johny?? Gonna see if I can find a suitable diameter magnet strong enough to do the job and insert into the sump plug . . . Eric - any ideas? "buy a magnet, drill a hole, dob of superglue, drop the magnet in - job done!" 🙂

    Best,

    C.

  9. Magnetic sump plug

    in Engine

    Posted

    That's a neat solutiion, Eric. Not too far off Pete's remarks! 

    DanMi - I was just looking at those. Eric's inexpensive solution is tempting! Did you find you needed a washer of some description?

    Best,

    C.

  10. Magnetic sump plug

    in Engine

    Posted

    All good comments - Gary, I did think after I said it that nitrile might work. TBH, the car leaks a bit anyway. At 143k miles, I expect it. I leak at 66 years old! 🤣

  11. Magnetic sump plug

    in Engine

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Paul H said:

    I have (had) them on my Vitesse on gearbox and sump but they always leaked. Purchased from Canleys 

    Paul 

    Which is not much of a help, it leaking when cold & not expanded under heated conditions! Choice:- trap swarf but lose oil when cold standing . . . and Gary, surely a rubber 'O' ring would burn off or harden, crack, then break away after not too long (back to oil loss when cold . . .🙂)??

  12. Magnetic sump plug

    in Engine

    Posted

    Hi Colin.

    Apologies for not having spotted that thread. 

    Gearbox plug would be good, too. Who hasn't accidentally crunched a gear or two? 

    However, I'm not sure I'm clear about which thread is correct (and . . . is the g'box the same?)!

    Our original plugs are interference fit, aren't they? So should I be looking at the 3/8 x 18 NPTF, as mentioned?

    Nobody seemed terribly definitive about a replacement . . . (or am I just being dim again?!?)

    Thanks and Best, C.

  13. Magnetic sump plug

    in Engine

    Posted

    Hi Chaps,

    I quite fancy a magnetic sump plug for my 1200 saloon.

    Merlin Autosports have loads, but I'd need to know what the plug thread is.

    Does anyone have a spec., please?? 

    Best, C

  18. Herald 1200 sallon Seat fixtures

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Thanks Pete.

    I would have constructed something similar, I think.

    101 ways to skin a cat! 

    Best, 

    C.

    PS:- for all those who seem to put more comfortable seats in their cars (Mazda etc) do they use the Herald saloon fixings - or do they construct something similar to that which you have just described . . . ?? 

  21. Herald 1200 sallon Seat fixtures

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Good suggestions, All.

    I think I will try the jammed screwdriver trick first, before trying to destroy and re-build!

    My concern (and apart from the disappointment of this happening after the arduous sound-proofing and recommisioning of the interior) is that if I can remove, then tightening the lugs on the nut, for subsequent replacement purposes, is not going to be sufficient as the lugs will only be forced outward again.

    E.G., the same thing will only happen again. There needs to be a way for me to hold that nut tight and prevent either side lug bending out making it impossible to tighten in situ. . . OR - will that never happen - once bent on tightening, it will always subsequently bend???

     

    Cheers, All, C.

     

  23. Handbrake Gaiter - Fit

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Hi Guys,

    I've not responded to how I 'fixed' things. One of the reasons 2012's restorer put a new (but sadly shiny finish) gaitor on was because the bellows part had split over the years (I would assume in years gone by, I let the pull-on movement get too great and had the lever was moving through too much of an arc.

    I think all the above methods of accessory fittings are very good indeed. If only I could sew!

    However, on recent refitting of the cabin innards, I decided to buy myself some think neoprene sheet. I 'stitched' the better dull black gaitor I'd acquired with some flat profile metal 'wire' to the neoprene sheet, (cut to precisely fit to the gaitor base) and the curved card base and then reaffixed into place. This gives the gaitor an extra 6mm chance of preventing its bellows splitting, if ever the h'brake adjustment gets too great, or cable, stretched. Using the shiny, surplus-to-requirements gaitor as a template, I then cut a section of carpet I'd bought from Newton to fit tight over the gaitor under the lower bellow and affixed with velcro onto the newly fitted carpet base.

    It's just another way of doing it and hides the badly finished original restorer's carpet cuts around the h'brake and also the metal stitching.

     

    Chers, All.

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    • Like 1

  24. Herald 1200 sallon Seat fixtures

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    Chaps . . .

    Here we go again! Silly difficulty time once more;

    Following 6 months' chassis and front body mounts replacements and 'B' post repairs, I have been re-installing the cabin internals (I stripped her out completely hoping it would assist the two 'specialists' who I eventually had the work done by (will be updating my previous posts in respect of the outriggers and body mounts in case it helps others).

    I took the opportunity to sound-proof her with slivered bitumen squares and then underfelt. This led to my new carpet needing fit adjustments. Please to at last have the passenger seat back in again, I struggled with one rear seat runner fixing.

    As you know, they are captive nuts in a slide-on the fixed bodywork tab above. All well and good . . . if the lugs that are supposed to prevent the square captive nut turning hold out as you tighten the fixing bolt up.

    I one of mine, clearly a lug (or both lugs) around the captive nut have given way (bent wide by the nut edge) and the nut just turns and this happened before she was fully tight. So if I wanted to remove the seat at any future point, I can't as I cannot undo the nut and more than I can fully tighten it.

    It's a hugely inconvenient place in terms of getting to it - normally, I'd cut through one part or another to release it and find another way of securing.

    Does anyone have any suggestions, please? It's really annoying to have re-fitted the cabin out with all fixtures and fittings, but to have a seat nut I can't do up - or remove!

    Cheers in advance.

    Best, C.

  25. Herald 13/60 Compression Pressures

    in Engine

    Posted

    Ah; well . . . When the Gov began to alert us that 4* leaded was to disappear, I took advantage of swapping to a John Kipping (ledge!) unleaded head. That was decades ago! So clearly the hardened valves and seats have done their work, too!!😉

    • Like 1
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