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Good work. I'm looking forward to the GT6 episode. 😉

How far should the spring be compressed on a correctly fitting cap? The reason I ask is that I had a similar experience to Meeze. I bought a replacement 13lb cap. And then a 7 pounder when I became concerned I was over-pressurising the system. One cap compresses just a millimetre or so. The other compresses the spring hardly at all.

If you don't already have one, I would thoroughly recommend fitting one of these (a Dis-Car-Nect). Only a few quid, and could save your car (don't ask me how I know this). All of the GT6 wiring goes through just 3 fuses! In an emergency you don't want to be running around trying to find the right sized spanner to disconnect the battery...

I have bullet mirrors mounted on the doors of my Mk2 (fitted by the PO I hasten to add). The pax mirror is slightly further back, which bugs the heck out of me... Both interfere with the quarterglass and both were completely useless until I fitted convex glass. Now only the N/S is completely useless. The drivers side is just barely usable. I'm planning to take them off the door and, if I can see anything through them not too far forward on the wings, I'll mount them there. If you're going the door-mount route, I would avoid the bullet type mirrors and have them far enough back to clear the quarterglass.

I don't think they're necessarily the wrong parts - but poor tolerances. According to my ancient Halfords vernier caliper the tube is slightly out of round. I kept pushing the nut on then used fine emery on the shiny patches until it was on far enough for the olive. It may have been overkill, but I also polished out the emery marks with Autosol. The hot water trick helped to get the olive on. Finally, fit to the car and check for leaks... So far, so good.

Thanks. When I said close fit, I meant that I can barely get it on to the tube.

I recently replaced my fuel pump, the result of which was a leak from the inlet pipe when parked facing downhill. 🙄 I temporarily stopped it with an o-ring and ordered new tube and fittings, which arrived today. The olive on the tube is a very close fit. Are there any trade secrets for assembling fuel connections easily without damaging the olive or tube? TIA

Happy new year all. Went out this morning for a full English followed by a lovely tour of the Yorkshire countryside in the GT6. Then spent the rest of the day cleaning off the road grime... 🤷‍♂️

Just got our tickets for this. Super Early Bird prices end today. See you there!

Ooh. I was thinking of getting one of those. It looks like a big one.

I got mine from ebay too. But take out the glass and measure it first. That link is for 100mm dia. I needed 93mm and they fit perfectly.

My bullet mirrors are on the doors. Convex glass is an improvement on the driver's side, but it's still not very good and the pax side is useless. They also interfere with the quarter glass on the GT6. I'm considering putting ital style ones on the wings and filling the holes in the door.

Nope. This one.

Me too. Twice.

Hooray! Overdrive is back! I fitted the replacement solenoid tonight and took her for a (very noisy) test drive. I'll probably do a bit of an overhaul during winter - when I have all the parts. But the main priority tonight was to get the OD working for the weekend. For anyone else planning to replace their solenoid, I can thoroughly recommend one of these. It makes accessing the lower bolt 1000% easier (note I said easier. It still isn't easy).

Thanks Pete. I think the old one is beyond salvage. It's a sealed unit anyway. I presume the oil needs to be drained to check the ring magnets? I was also going to check the operating valve, but some gorilla completely rounded off the plug.

After much sweating, swearing an knuckle scraping, I finally got the solenoid off the overdrive. The inside and armature are covered in a sticky brown tarry substance. My theory is that the bit in the middle at the bottom overheated and got stuck to the back of the plunger. It got pulled out when the overdrive disengaged and fell to the bottom preventing it making contact the next time the solenoid was energised. When I install the replacement solenoid, should I use any lubricant?

Never mind, Found it. Here if anyone else needs it.

Well, I've finally bit the bullet, put on my big boy pants and took the tunnel cover off today. It wasn't as bad as I expected. I took the cover plate off and was greeted with a weird burnt, tarry sort of smell. I tried the switch and the armature did move, but only a few mm. I kind of expected this so I had a replacement solenoid on hand... but how in blazes do I get the lower bolt out? I've searched for Gully's post but can't find much. Does anybody have a link?

Have they changed the colour of 4life in the past year? I've just put it in my GT6 and it was red from the get go. The blurb says the presence of exhaust gases turns it yellow.

Well, I replaced the water pump. A fairly simple job. It's weeping a bit around the join now. I used the supplied gasket. Will it settle down, or should I have used a sealant as well? Would Hylomar Blue do the trick? Thanks.

Fortunately, she has taps on both the radiator and the block. 😁

Or twice as big as it needs to be..? 😉

I will catch and re-use it.

Thanks guys. There was originally green fluid in the overflow - which was replaced by brown sludge after she ejected the coolant. I did the soda crystals thing and drove her for a few days. Then drained it, ran a Holts speedflush through, water flush (twice), then refilled with 4Life (controversial, I know) coolant. Since then everything has been peachy, apart from this. I'll see how it goes for some short runs. But will probably replace the water pump for peace of mind.