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Mathew

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Posts posted by Mathew

  1. 9 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

    Do you mean the cage that keeps the balls in place in the big ball-bearing race?

    The decent quality RHP(?) main bearings have been NLA for a while and the ones I’ve seen supplied instead were so dodgy looking I ended up choosing the best of the used ones. This may be the root of your problems?

    Silly thing is, the decent bearings are still available in every detail except the external circlip groove, so it wouldn’t be a major challenge to get a batch converted.

    In general terms the single rail box in the 1500 is about the strongest factory combination there is (not saying all that much it is true), but all getting old and well used now.

    Nick

    If all that is needed is a groove , if you know the bearing let us know it, so i could get some at brt and use the lathe to cut the groove. 

  2. Assuming you have the 1500 j type box. Drove with one of these for 20k miles no problem and the box was second hand to me! I have a lead right foot as well!

    So why is yours failing? When you rebuilt it did you fully rebuild it or just change the bit that had failed? Oil used? Driving style? Do you ease up when changing gear or slam it in?

  3. Taken for a good shake down run today after the suspension mods, exhaust mod and radiator change. Ran well, good acceleration and brakes. A few little niggles, over some bumps and hard braking got some chirps from the front right tyre. Could be too low suspension or i did notice a bump towards the tyre on the wheel arch. No grounding of the exhaust though so thats a result. The temperature sender earth not so good so i might have to solder it to the base of the sender, on one of the flats. Some of the lights on the dash not working in the multi function indicator, the choke(ecu) and ign one. Otherwise fine.

  4. 1 hour ago, Anglefire said:

    My Dad did mine a couple of years ago - but then he did restore antiques as a hobby as well as being a cabinet maker (woodwork teacher but always described himself as that!)

     I bought a second hand dash - which it turned out that the one that was in the car was the wrong one.

    Before:

    1021880446_1DX_0275CanonEOS-1DX.thumb.jpg.09f8023e756a5f3b8c6bf692ab7fabc0.jpg

     

    IMG_5549.thumb.jpg.52420c114b347fffdd09cf15e42ac659.jpg

     

    And yes it does need to be repolished. And the pressure gauge is going to come out too - its served its purpose now. and is only a worry meter :)

    Looks good, i did mine but rushed it by putting too much on too soon. It will have to do for now. One day i will find the patience enough to do it properly but too much of a hurry now.

  5. 9 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

    Lay out all the mechanism on the bench before you start so that you know where everything should go. A magnet on a telescopic radio aerial thingie is useful for all the bits that you drop into the bottom of the door and stick in the cavity wax, if any is still there. The door remote linkage is a pain as well but get the glass in first. The linkage was designed by a sadist on drugs!!

    There are numerous posts on here about tools and tricks to help with fitting clips and the like.

    A magnetic tool for the clips, i must try that. Fed up with the number of times the clip falls off into the bottom of the door!

  6. 6 minutes ago, PeteH said:

    Has anyone ever looked at re-locating the pedal boxes?. On the Herald the accelerator is the "organ" type, bolted through the floor, and may be easy to move a little bit?. But moving the brake inward, looks 

    On the spitfire if you want to extreme move you can always cut the mounting plate for the clutch and brake and weld to the desired position. Never found the need, mind you 31 years of driving them i might of got used to it.

  7. 41 minutes ago, rogerguzzi said:

    Hello Mathew

                            You started late and have a long way to go yet! (75)

    I still have 3 Motorcycles(Velocette's) 3 Triumphs and a Morris Minor Traveller!

    I did sell a Vitesse a few weeks ago so that's a start? and a few parts!

    Roger

    Had 14 spitfires, still have 2. 3 2000s have 1 now. Had a tr7 two gt6s and a Herald 13/60. So i am well down the rabit hole!

  8. 11 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    Get the glass in first, dropped down onto the door bottom; then fit the runners to the door and around the glass so that the glass slides up and down. Then get the glass right to the top, prop it there out of the way and fit the winder mechanism. Drop the glass down and wind the winder up until you can engage the mechanism in the sliders, then fit the door catch and lock mechanism. I think!

    That sounds about right, the furry door seal and outer seal last, thats the bit you swear at!!!

  9. 10 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    The steering column is also off-set... not bent, as some would call it, but it angles upwards towards the outside.

    Is that to save you getting speared in a head on, all cleverly designed for your body to roll out of the way 😜

  10. Just thinking, we could move the table over for a workbench. Knock the windows out and the wall below, cracking garage, should get a few cars in. We have a place up here for sale if that goes before we have saved enough. 12 million but 44acres of land, riverside access and king Charles the 1st hid up there at the end of the civil war.

  11. 2 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    heat can work didnt you do the old experiment at school with a ball sits ina ring 

    you heat it all and the ball drops through the ring 

    as expansion of the hub circumference  is linear it always grows more than the diameter of a shaft 

    so cooking it  must assist separation 

    Pete

     

     

    Looks like heat is last resort as per question, heat is a good solution. Fitted starter ring with an ordinary plumber's blow torch so it wouldn't take much.

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