Iain T

I used to go to the Electrolux plant at Spennymoor, not the prettiest of places. I agree with your parents choice! When the world returns to some sort of normality touring around NZ is on my bucket list. Iain

+1 for Kingspan fit and forget and is a complete system. Iain

What do you mean garage.....I don't even have one of those! Try working in a multi storey car park! However I am fortunate in so far as I've been in engineering all my life and still know a lot of people who can 'help'. Iain Adrian I just guggled where you are, what a lovely part of the world. Before I was born my parents were going to emigrate to NZ, they never said why they changed their minds.

Adrian, over the production life of our cars many parts would have been changed not only in design but manufacturing techniques. To me due to it's regular shape it looks an odd part to be cast but then sometimes multiple or even different parts are cast together. I imagine where you are the temperature gets pretty toasty in the summer hence the interest! Iain

Adrian, choose a decent spec steel and there will be no problem. The original looks to be machined from bar not cast and machined. Given its round shape it's an easy production machining job. Peter, my main concern is clearance. What I don't know is how much the engine moves forward under heavy braking. I would have thought only 3mm or so. Does anyone know? DPD man arrives around 10am today! Iain

Steve, fingers crossed yes and exactly under the hot inlet. My cardboard facsimile looked promising....... Iain

Colin, you're all making me nervous! Don't give me these negative vibes, I want only positive thoughts😁 Fortunately making a new one is not a problem for me. I did look look for a replacement but couldn't find one so perhaps they are rare? As I said I have to wait at another property for a delivery between 9 and 5 tomorrow as they can't give me a more defined time😡 why? Iain

Agreed, as I said I'll do a trial fit as is before as a last resort I machine anything🤞 I can't move the radiator any further forward but altering the angle may just be enough to make it work without any machining mods. Or possibly mod the fan housing? Unfortunately I'm out tomorrow so the trial may have to wait until Friday. Iain

First off I gave it a very stern talking too! Then I asked a guy working in the car park to put his foot on the brake and together with the gearbox in top and me standing on the socket bar it finally turned. It seems the handbrake is now on the list of things to adjust as when I tried yesterday the engine turned and the car went backwards! One challenge down many many more to follow. If I get in the poop I'll be sure to 'ask the forum'. Either way I'll let everyone know how it turns out. Cheers Iain

Good news, it's off! Now I know what the back end looks like, I thought it was solid and not counterbored! The centre is 6.2mm thick so I think I could reasonably take 3mm off the front as the crank fan won't be fitted. I assume the outer part of the boss still acts as a retainer for the pulley wheel? The bolt head is 10.2mm thick so again I could take 3mm off and still get enough purchase with a socket. Only an extra 6mm of clearance but every little helps! However I am doing nothing until the fan arrives tomorrow to see exactly what clearances I have. Iain

Richard, The only reason I chose the Spal is because it's the thinnest one I could find with a known reputation. The spec says 6.5A and 80W and only 51mm deep and although on fitting your 65mm deep fan may have worked I just didn't want to take the chance. I'm not sure why I seem to have less room than others but I'm looking forward to Duxford and have a rummage around other cars! Iain

Nick, good to know it's a simple job once the ******* things off! I have no access to power or air as I'm working in a multi storey car park! So it's down to old codger power... Iain

Pete, sorry didn't reply. I don't think removing some material from the centre will effect the harmonics too much. I'm looking forward to meeting some of you at Duxford.....I've got my fingers crossed! Iain

Ian, I have to admit I'm not exactly sure what it looks like. The Haynes manual just shows a simple boss with the four tapped holes for the fan and a hole on the centre. I'm hoping that's correct and it's not like yours! The photo of mine does seem as though it's like the Haynes manual. Iain

Thanks Gav, I did manage to make the car reverse by jumping on the socket wrench! Obviously I need more leverage....even putting it in top and with the handbrake on wasn't enough so I'll bring some angle home as a fall back to stop the engine rotating. Jumped in and bought a curved blade Spal 11" pull fan from T7 Designs. I measured from the crank bolt head to the rad core and I have 55mm, the Spall is 51mm thick at the centre but I will need to mount it on thin pads so it's going to be mighty close without modifying the fan boss. I need that extra 10mm but then I'm not sure if I can position the fan so the crank bolt is on the tapered part of the fan casing?? But I'll find out Friday... Iain

Colin, you're right the bu**er of a bolt won't turn even with me jumping on the bar and a large bowl of porridge! I'll bring some steel pipe home tomorrow to give me more leverage..... Iain

Thanks all, providing I can get the thing off I was just going to take 10mm off the front face as that seems the simplest solution. The depth from the front face to the pulley is currently 16mm probably because of the requirement of the four tapped holes for the original fan. Iain

Nick, I'm still doing trial runs but have the rad out now to fit an electric fan. My biggest issue with the 6AC needles was pinking under acceleration and going lean (16+) at high revs. I use 20/50 engine oil in the carbs which most people seem to prefer. I have no idea what the springs are. Once I've fitted the fan I'll give it a longer run. Iain

Bob, a pusher isn't an option on my Vitesse as the front grille is only a few millimetres from the rad, a puller is only option. Johny you got there first!

It's a newly rebuilt engine so I'm hopeful! I'll have an extra large bowl of porridge tomorrow... Iain

Steve, I have to say I'm inclined to do exactly as your setup as it gives total control. However in my car I can't fit anything without reducing the pulley spacer. As I said I assume this is OK as I can't push the rad further forward and inclining it may help clear the water pump housing but nothing else. Iain

Danny, having both is Nirvana but I can only fit a very small fan in the top nearside (admittedly exactly the right position by the hot inlet pipe) and not sure if the small capacity would make enough difference. I suppose for the small outlay I could try it. Mmm undecided..... Iain

Richard I'm not keeping the mechanical fan, my rad is perhaps thicker than standard as I bearly have 50mm from the bolt to the rad core hence the need for extra clearance. I'm going into my old works Wednesday so could reduce the spacer thickness or counterbore so the bolt head is flush with the spacer. I assume taking the bolt off I will have to put the car in gear, handbrake on to lock the transmission? Iain

Cheers Rob, just confirms what I think. With the 6J's at WOT afr goes down to 11.5'ish so plenty of fuel getting in. To effectively use the 7B's you must have to have a hairy cam and sorted head. My cam is a hybrid 0.26 inlet and outlet 260 degree and even with my head they are just too rich. Cheers Iain

Update After several runs and many tweaks it seems the 6AC needles are not right for my engine as they go far too lean on moderate acceleration and high revs plus the engine seems hesitant. I also have pairs of 6J and 7B needles and installed the 7B's first. Big difference mucho more torque and no hesitation but at cruise the afr was around 11-12. Is this too rich for cruising? Will it result in coking up? I then used the 6J's a sort of half way house between 6AC and 7B but about the same diameter at the bottom of the taper at max revs and standard on Mk1 Vitesse. The engine still pulled ok and afr showed slightly leaner mixture up to 12-13. I have kept the 6J's in and confirm what NonMember (do you have a name?) said that the 'magic' 14.7 number is way too lean for an old engine, well certainly my engine. Tickover on both needles is fine, any advice re 6J or 7B? Iain