Iain T

I'm going to fit an electric fan (Spal) to my Vitesse Mk2. In the hot weather and in traffic it just got a tad too toasty. I can just about fit the standard fan which is 51mm deep but I would like more clearance. Can I turn down the fan spacer 149481 which is 16mm thick to 6mm and then take 10mm off the bolt? I made a mock up of the fan out of cardboard and it seems the largest diameter I can go is 11" before the water pump gets in the way. However its capacity of 856cfm must be far greater than the crank fan at tickover. Iain

Colin, it all depends on how manic you are about particle filtration and where you drive. In a sandy or dirty atmosphere filtration is obligatory. I ran a TR3a with just carb horns and mesh cover, for the small mileages we do it's possibly not an issue. Iain

Gadgetman, it may be possible to fit K&N filters into a standard box by using a different seal. I have K&N pancakes but do like the original look of the airfilter box. I can tell you fitting pancakes made no discernable different to power/torque on my engine. It's really just a matter of looks. Also the standard 6AC needles were still fine with pancakes. However for my new modified engine with sorted head, CR, higher lift cam (but same duration) etc the 6AC's run very lean on acceleration. The 7B's, recommended for banana manifolds and K&N's run rich, the engine pulls like a train but air fuel ratio throughout the speed range is around 12-12.5. I have some 6J's which are about halfway between 6AC and 7B that I will try tomorrow. I have spent too much money on rolling roads so I fitted a AFR in my exhaust as I knew I would have to play around with needles. The AFR cost less than a rolling road session and the only other thing I bought was an STE carb synchroniser. This way you can try different needles without the £100 per hour rolling road clock ticking! Plus contrary to popular belief there are lots of needles to choose from depending on the state of tune of your engine. Peter's right the more you twiddle the more headaches you get but some of us just can't stop! Iain

I'll oil the bushes and see if it stops the creaking. Another item to put on my twiddlin' list! Lowering the rear tyre pressures from 28 to 26 (as recommended by Nick in another thread) made a surprising big difference to my overly stiff rear end. Iain

Mmmm, just following this thread the PO of my Vitesse (via huge gulp of air Jigsaw) fitted red poly bushes to the roll bar. The front end creaks like anything, at low speed it's quite annoying. Is this common with reds? Plus it's bloody hard! Iain

Hi Roger, The PO of my car had the front set far to low (plus the AVO's were kernackered) and the tyre would rub on the wheel arch flange when going over a matchstick! I fitted the 330lbs springs and GAZ adjustable ride and height. They seem ok but you have to set ride on minimum or it's too harsh and the height so that the suspension is at the correct angle and the tyres don't rub. If you have anything over 175 tyres it's always going to be a problem. Iain

If my memory is correct can't you hard chrome then grind shafts to repair any wear? I think a company called Spindle Services may be able to help, I've never used them and no idea of the costs but if your back's against the wall........ Iain

Another test is to drive along at a speed when the thrum thrum occurs then change gear. If the noise is the same then it's definitely from the gearbox back. In the seventies I had a Mk2 Escort that had a nasty drum at around 60-70mph. After the local Ford dealership emptied my pockets an old guy said it's your new rear tyres and to prove it he put another set of wheels on and he was right! I had travelled all the way back from Inverness at 50-60mph thinking my diff was about to explode when it was the crappy new tyres to blame! Have you recently changed your tyres? I also had an Alfa with a dodgy diff which used to clonk when I backed off that was just wear but didn't drum. Iain

Sorry Rimmers part number RL1396ALT Iain

I bought these from Rimmers, they are stub stacks for SU HS4's. I just eased out the fixing holes and machined a slot for the air piston and voila better air flow. If you search in forum for stub stacks you will find pictures etc.

Nick, I'll try that as I have 175/60s. My rear end always feels a bit stiff I thought it was just my age! My boring modern car is the other way round 2.2bar front and 2.4bar rear. Iain

Thanks everyone, I'll give it a longer run and then as I said take a look at the plugs to make sure the Tech is correct! Iain

How very true, using new tech on our cars should be an aid not the rule. You need to know your car especially with non standard engine set ups and take note of all the tell tale signs. In our foundry we used kirksite for our press tools, although there was a temp gauges on the ovens the guy could tell by looking at the surface of the molten metal if it was ready to pour. It takes experience and getting it wrong a few times to get "the knowledge".

Pete, correct I was quoting the smallest diameter. After a quick charge down the A13 the idle is hovering around 13-13.5, at wot it's about 12.5-12.7 and cruising at 3000rpm about 14.5. At lower speed cruising 2000-2500rpm it's the same as idle. The engine picks up fine throughout the rev range. On backing off after cruising it is initially as low as 10 then up to 15-15.5. I will check the plugs and just out of curiosity the jet heights with a depth vernier. I set them the same prior to adjusting so they should be fine. I did notice the front carb needle had been filed and then forgot to measure it! I would say it's not far off using the standard 6AC needles? The 7B's will just make it richer and use more fuel.... Some needle variant comparisons. Iain

I realise it's at cruise and wot that I need to get the mixture as best as I can. At the moment I have 6AC needles but also have a pair of 7B's which are 506 thou at the bottom and slightly narrower along the entire length than the 561 thou 6AC's. Another option is the B5BU which is 540 thou but actually wider than the 6AC's in the middle and also available. Time for a blast up the A13! I will certainly remove the sensor after I have finished tuning. Thanks Iain

Thanks, I do realise I am using new tech on an old engine so I'll go old skool for the idle and see what the gauge says. The engine did seem happier at around 12 to 13 at idle. What sort of values at wot and cruise is acceptable for our engines? Iain

I've just installed an afr gauge and although I haven't been out for a run yet to clear it's throat at tick over the gauge is around the 14 but when I raise, just a tad, the air piston on each carb hiccups and stalls. The gauge is saying very slightly rich from ideal 14.7 and the carb test is telling me they are lean. Any suggestions as to the anomaly? The gauge is an AEM X series which according to the blurb doesn't require calibration. Cheers Iain

Doug, Sorry didn't reply earlier I just finished hooking up my new toy the afr gauge! I didn't ask about biased needles as it's not politically correct 😂😂! Best thing to do is give them a ring as I get the impression they have more than is actually on their website. Iain

Doug, I spoke to Burlen last year and they said they have lots of needles for Strombergs. I bought a non standard pair earlier this year (pre lockdown so can't remember what but I think around 60 thou at bottom on recommendation by Chris Witor) and as DPD kindly delivered an AEM afr on Friday I'll be testing which one's work best. The Burlen website is er erm 'difficult'? I had to phone them and they talked me through how to access all the needles and the charts! Iain

Thanks, I'll log the info I hope I won't need it! Iain

Interestink! My diff seems to be ok but not sure how it's going to fare with my 'new' engine, time will tell. Just bought an AEM afr meter to sort out the carbs so more tweaking! Is the Subaru (what version) a straight swap? Do you have to make a new carrier?

Forgive my ignorance but what is a scooby diff?

Steve, I used Bailey Morris for my propshaft, talk to them as they will advise on tube specs/diameters. Clive, Both my diff and gearbox were pointing down so way out of parallel and theoretical parameters. As you know with a T9 it's nigh impossible to raise the gearbox tail in fact I have cut a portion of the tunnel out and replaced with a modified removable section to give more clearance. The only option is to raise the diff nose, I'll ask my guy exactly what he did and report back! Iain

Clive, First I only did this to try and solve a severe driveline vibration problem which as it turned out had nothing to do with the prop. I personally didn't do the work but measured the angles (I used an app on my phone) with the mechanic. I have a Type 9 gearbox so a sliding spline fit prop on the front and standard flange to the rear. It was about 2 years ago now but I think the difference in the diff to gearbox angle in side view was way over 3 degrees and as you say the only option is to lift the diff nose as it is impossible with a type 9 to raise the gearbox tail. I'm not sure how the mechanic did it but he modified the carrier/mounts to reduce the angle difference to about 1 degree. I also have a 1" spring spacer and was aware all this work could effect the suspension but all seems ok. The back end was always a bit harsh even though I replaced with adjustable shocks (must turn them down to minimum) and it is what it is, nothing broken or fallen off.......now that's really tempting fate!!!!!!! Having said that I did get the suspension professionally set up after the work. If you ask me is this mod really necessary the answer is if your car drives ok, the prop doesn't hit anything and the driveline doesn't vibrate then no leave it alone. Hope this helps Iain

I had this problem after raising the nose of the diff to get a more parallel angle to the gearbox. The solution was a large hammer to the tunnel!! Iain