wimpus
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Posts posted by wimpus
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Oh yeah... my rad is again leaking..
Spraying coolant around the inside of ghe bonnet ...
Got another failed alloy one.
Had a look and found the leak.
Going to try to repair it myself 😅
For the current rad did a test.... it worked !
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Yesterday needed to have a look at 3 Triumphs of friends.
1 Car was fixed, the rest I got parts from a show today.
And gearbox/overdrive service
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Yesterday morning testdrove on the motorway.. very heavy rainstorm !
Water running onto my steering wheel 😅😅
Time for a new front seal..
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More stuff done this weekend on Fox.😅
Full front suspension rebuild with new Superflex bushes etc.
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Got the tank empty and removed the old sender unit
Float had a little bit of fuel in it.
But not much.
Measured the resistance in the old sender.
At one point 0 until empty, so thats wht it went to 0 when the gauge said under 1/2 tank.
New sending unit needed some adjustment.. (bending the arm).
Otherwise it would have said it still had fuel.. but was empty.
With the fuel back in, 1/2 on the gauge.
Trip to the petrol station.
9liter went in and full, gauge said 3/4
(Did hook up the new sending unit first a d tested it out of the tank, put it on full, gauge said just past 3/4.
In a way I can live with this, been like this for years.
Now to see when the gauge said empty.. that there is still fuel in my tank.
Would be handy 😆
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Since a few days the fuel gauge is acting up.
After a quick test.. its the sender in the tank.
So after 44 years, its time for a new one.
Ordered one at my usual dutch supllier and will arrive tomorrow.
Full has been 3/4 for years.
Now since a few days when shes around half a tank she starts to moves about
Then it just goes fully dead.
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On 13/08/2022 at 02:11, Lance Smith said:
The Spitfire 1500 workshop manual suggests use of tool, L.354A, which looks like a pin socket to remove the threaded plugs inside the sump.
Skandix.de offers a Tool, Overdrive, 1019212, but it is out of stock at this time.
Die Spitfirescheune in Germany sells the tool to.
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Adjusted the carbs again this afternoon.
It was to rainy yesterday..
Found a co-tester in the metal scrap.
Seems to work ok (will test it against a calibrated one ).
So had a look, colortune just giving hints of orange and co reading was 4.8 to 5%
It does drive pretty good and smooth now 🙃
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This morning D-day for Fox once again.
Technical inspection time.
She passed without advisory's again.
And the tester told me the underside looked really nice for a 44 year old car.
Told him it had +345.000kms.. he was a bit shocked 😄
In the last year she has done 17.468kms/10.850miles.
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Today after work had a warm up drive, then it was time for emissions check and front light aim check.
Emissions.. started at 6,5%
Adjusted 2 flats more lean, 2,89/3,10% !
So thats meets the legal limit of 4,5%
But runs a bit lean, after inspection will give her a full tune up.
Fronts lights needes some adjustment.
But fun to drive now in the dark 😅
For the rest I just need to degrease engine and gearbox, then shes ready.
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As friday is D-day (her yearly technical inspection)...
Needed to do a few things.
Noticed the left top ball joint had grease on it.. another gaiter bad.
Got the ball joint loose to discover.. it was rusty inside and felt notchy.
Time for another one.
But I do think its best to have a look at the front suspension..
Maybe change all the bushes etc, it was all replaced 6 years ago but had done 90.000miles 😅😅
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Im pretty sure the endfloat on this one is to much 😅
For the rest didnt find a whole lot bad.
Laygear etc all fine, mainshaft all fine.
Only need all the mainshaft bearings and 3 springs & balls for the syncro hub.
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1 hour ago, Peter Truman said:
I was lucky with my Vitesse the main chassis box was still solid underneath and cutting the outrigger bottom out like yours was sufficient then weld in a new piece, I sprayed fish oil into the joint btwn main and outrigger to protect it.
Interestingly I had previously brought RH & LH original Stanpart front outriggers to replace them but a patch was adequate, maybe next time????
Mine are still the original 44 your old outriggers.
Left one had a bit part welded in before my time.
In the future need to look at the front anto roll bar mounting plate.
The plate itself looks home made if you see the other side.
Weld was again cracking, but seems the metal of the chassis is getting thin there.
Will have a look on what to do in the future.
Its never ending 😅
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Yesterday some cutting and getting out some rust.
Seems they just covered over a rust hole in the chassis itself.
But not to bad really To fix. 🙃
Next some stone chip once the epoxy primer is dry.
Already sprayed some wax in it to.
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20 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
the input shaft should be locked in place by the front cover/hsg there is far too big gap between baulk ring and dog teeth
so looks like a thrust/spacer is missing on the mainshaft which is more likely to shift under the helical loads than the input shaft
there are shim rings to set the input and rear main bearing snap rings so any movement is very restricted
Pete
Front bearing was failing, thats why the input shaft had so much play.
Will get the box apart in a few weeks to see whats up, when i get more time..
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Ffs..
Found some rot on the bottom connection of outrigger to chassis on the right side.
Left side i've done in februari, right side looked and felt solid...
Bended the previous repair away a bit.. hole in chassis itself..
Time to weld it is then.. 🙃
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8 hours ago, JumpingFrog said:
That input bearing is toast, and looks like the casing is too. Probably will also have not been kind to the mainshaft tip. Was the bearing anything decent or typical unbranded junk that everyone is selling?
Also noticed that seemingly all your gearbox failures have been on the input end, worth checking your engine back plate is absolutely flat. I'm guessing you've already checked, just surprised how many gearboxes you're going through!
I had 2 front bearings fail.
1 time laygear
1 time laygear shaft and laygear
Etc
Rear engine plate is flat, new pilot bush , straight better flywheel now etc
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Some play in the noisy gearbox..
3th and 4th syncro hub lost all his balls and springs due to input moving so much.
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20 hours ago, johny said:
I make that about 41mpg which is good👍
That all in a big thunder storm etc on the way to there.
Full.. but full of spare Spitfire stuff for when they needed something.
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But still nothing was off
1 and 2 can crunch.
Suspect the new release bearing to not be the same size.
So.. did 350kms and 6.9L/100km to and from the Netherlands.
Abd no oil used.. still amazed by that 😅
Not bad !
Some pics at Rolduc
It was a great evening, seeing lots of people that I knew.
Also helped somebody out.
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It was a busy week last week...
Front bearing fell apart on the gearbox in Fox.
So the rebuild one needed to put in fast..
Thursday, friday evening and saturday morning we changed out gearboxes etc.
Then it was off to meet up with the 10CR guys at the finish.
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Seen a way to build one cheap..
Seen on FB.
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34 minutes ago, johny said:
Surely if the adaptors are different as shown by the measurements you have taken, the holes in the bell housings they fit in will have to be different? Heres this from Rimmers single rail page:
You can just change the adaptors.
So dont know why they list as different part no.
But the spare one thats bigger is the wrong one for a Spitfire.
Bought a few of these scroll and oil seal type adaptors and always fit the bellhousing and are the same size.
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1 hour ago, johny said:
Looks like theres different bell housings for scroll and lip type seals to fit single rail Spit boxes - certainly two different part numbers...
Its just adaptors that are different..
Daily Spit 1500 body repairs & more..
in My Triumph Restoration Project
Posted
Today..
British Car Club Day in the Netherlands.
180miles, 41mpg.
Not bad going !
Around the parking lot some interesting british cars ....