-
Posts
1,308 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
16
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by Gully
-
-
Best thing I did for the wipers on my GT6 was buy a set of NOS Trico PRB2-12 wiper blades off EBay - they're the correct curved screen blades and are curved in the right direction, which is more than can be said for the modern parts I've tried (Tex). Worth looking out for them - they come up from time to time and do work with the orig 7mm arms.
Gully
-
John's correct - that's the case with mine which was poly bushed a couple of years ago (I bought the blue kit from Canleys).
Gully
-
Picked up the Haynes Zenith Stromberg manual cheaply off EBay and it includes the needle application charts. Turns out there were 3 different needles for the UK model Mk 3 GT6 as follows:
1970 carb ref 3369L/R needle B5AJ
1971/72 carb ref 3335L/R needle B5BT
1972/74 carb refs 3507RH/LH & 3432RH/LH needle B5CF
All with Blue springs.
Gully
-
Confused picture isn't it! I'm conscious that my early Mk 3 has always run rich and in the early pictures of the restoration the previous owner completed it was running pancake filters, which had been changed to the standard air box by the time I purchased the car. I was going to check the needles fitted and wanted a reference to see if they were right or not - but I couldn't find anything definitive. No plans to change the filter arrangements.
Most sources seem to agree that the later Mk 3 needs the B5CF, but both B5AJ and B5BT are listed in various places for the early Mk 3 cars (which mine is - KE83, built Nov 70) with CDSE carbs. One source indicates that the B5BT was for the Triumph 2000 only...
Thanks all for your inputs,
Gully
-
Hi all,
Just wondered if anyone had a definitive list of metering needles for Strombergs and their applications, please? I can't find anything official on the web and there's contradictory advice across the various car fora. I'm specifically interested in needles for the early GT6 Mk 3 - with both the standard air box and pancake filters (which I assume would need different needles to optimise).
Thanks,
Gully
-
Good to see the new ranges of TSSC clothing at the NEC yesterday, along with a great selection of Triumphs in Hall 3 from all the leading Triumph marque and model clubs. Thanks to all the volunteers and owners who made it possible. I thought it a shame the TSSC stand was a little separated from the others, otherwise there could have been a Triumph Village!
Despite wandering the show for many hours, I still didn't spot a single GT6... :-( Other than that, a grand day out! Anyone else from here go along?
Gully
-
Happy birthday! Sounds as if you've had a good day, which is great Is that 3 meals in one day?!
I can only reiterate all the thanks posted here for the support you provide to us all, as well as your efforts on arranging events etc for Herts and Beds area.
All the best,
Gully
-
Happy birthday!
We need a picture of said picture, please
Gully
-
Any news on this yet? I know it's out of Admin's control, but it's been a while.
Thanks,
Gully
-
Thanks Pete. Mine has MoT history back to October 2010, which is when the previous owner completed the restoration, so all makes sense. What I don't know is how long it was off the road prior to restoration - 2nd owner had it from around 1980 until mid 2000s.
Gully
- 1
-
I had a similar issue when turning right - usually on the first occasion after reversing. Turned out to be a worn near side lower wishbone bush allowing a little lateral movement under load. Just a thought.
Gully
-
My Mk 3 GT6 has exactly the same issue. With the sender unit float in the empty position the gauge reads one quarter full. That's with a separate gauge and slow moving needle! The resistance question is one I've been meaning to ask - will give mine a check.
Gully
-
According to the engine number, it is a GT6 Mk 2 unit - the HE is high compression engine, so flat top pistons is correct.
Afraid that's the limit of my info - over to someone more knowledgeable than me for heads and push rod data! Do you have reason to believe that it's not standard?
Gully
-
Let us know how you get on please Doug!
Gully
-
And when you do still have the original hooks fitted in your Mk 3, there's no guarantee that the shape of the replacement metal seat belt bits will fit / hang off them! Wonder how I know... A mod to be done one wet winter's day!
Gully
-
I wonder how the NOS suppliers get away with selling pads containing asbestos these days? Needs clamping down on in my view.
Gully
-
@Jezza - Vulcan's display is deemed a fly past display, not aerobatic, so we are not affected by the temporary restrictions imposed by the CAA. The VTTS Trust confirmed this earlier in the week. Hope you enjoy Dunsfold!
Gully
-
My GT6 used to run overdrive with a 3.27 diff - to say it was long legged was an understatement. Made it a pig to pull away on any form of hill! I changed to a 3.63 and have been really pleased - seems a good balance of acceleration and keeping the revs lower than the factory fit 3.89 would have done.
I believe GT6 guru Cookie also runs with a 3.63 diff and D type overdrive.
Gully
-
I recently drained my GT6 Mk 3 cooling system via the block drain plug and bottom hose. After replacing the radiator (which now has 50% more cores) it took over 6.5 litres to refill, so most of the coolant will come out!
The handbook recommendation for filling to avoid air locks worked well for me:
1. Fill the system via the radiator filler until full. Fit rad cap and half fill the expansion bottle.
2. Run engine at fast idle for 30 seconds, stop engine and top up system via the radiator filler. Refit cap.
3. Run the engine up to normal operating temperature. Stop and allow to cool, then top up expansion bottle until half full.
Cheers,
Gully
-
'Twas a good way to spend my birthday!
Thanks to all involved in organising the day and planning the route - thoroughly enjoyable.
Gully
-
It's a pretty common exclusion now. My wife is a stay at home Mum and we saved money by dropping to social / domestic / pleasure insurance cover on her car. My modern is SDP, plus commuting and Class 1 business usage - the latter allows me to drive it on work business during the working day.
My GT6 policy with Peter S Taylor is SDP only and I've no plans to commute in it!
Gully
-
Sounds as though it should keep the deposits from the bottom of the tank out of the fuel lines too!
Gully
-
Seem to recall Saffron being dropped from the GT6 range in mid '72, so if that is the original colour, then it doesn't fit with the '73 registration and non-rotoflex status. But Saffron does go with the dials!
Gully
-
Sorry for the thread creep!
GT6 Mk 3 Door Cards
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Hi all,
A minor issue in the grand scheme of things, but irritating all the same and I hope the collective knowledge here may be able to assist please...
I / my car received a pair of new door cards from Park Lane Classics for Christmas. I fitted the first one yesterday (near side), only to find that whilst it looks great, I now can't close the door without an almighty shove! The tight area seems to be the bottom corner of the door (hinge end). Okay, there are wear marks on the originals where they have been sandwiched against the door seals, but I wouldn't have expected the difference I'm encountering. I will drop Owen at Park Lane a note too, but has anyone else encountered this and come up with a solution?
Many thanks,
Gully