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Gully

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Posts posted by Gully

  1. Argh! Finger trouble, I meant KE10000. But Rimmer do say 10000, not 20000 so can someone put me straight?

    According to the Stromberg manual, it's based on the carburetor sets as follows:

     

    GT6 Mk 3 1970 Set 3369 R/L - B5AJ

    GT6 Mk 3 1971/72 Set 3335 R/L - B5BT

    GT6 Mk 3 1972/74 Set 3432 R/L - B5CF

    All 150CDSE

     

    GT6 Mk 3 1972/74 Set 3507 R/L - B5CF 150CD-SEV

     

    Given the dates and giving it some thought, it makes more sense that the change from the BT needle to CF coincides with the change in cylinder head at KE10001 rather than the deletion of the Rotoflex rear. I've conflicting reference books! Edited above.

     

    Gully

  2. There are two needles for CDSEs on Mk3s, don't know the numbers but they are pre and aft engine number KE0000. There is also a third needle for pancakes. Rimmers sell all three. I know this because Rimmers stitched me up with a carb repair kit containing the wrong jets. :angry:

     

    B5AJ for very early 1970 Mk 3

    B5BT for up to KE10000 generally

    B5CF for post KE10001

     

    But, check your carb set numbers too, as many will have been swapped around! I have a Nov 70 built car, but the carb set for that is 3335 R/L which is a B5BT metering needle. Then there's the spring debate... The Zenith Stromberg applications list doesn't list the spring colour for all carb sets' applications.

     

    Gully

  3. I have a glass topped AC pump on the GT6. The diaphragm failed around 3 years ago and I debated as to whether to rebuild or replace. I bought both a new pump and a refurb kit, but owing to the number of reports of people having problems with new pumps putting out too much pressure, I refurbished with a new, ethanol tolerant diaphragm. The valves were in good condition and I didn't even need to remove the body of the pump from the engine block.

     

    Gully

    • Like 1
  4. Robsport rebuilt my diff and replaced the clutch on my GT6 last year - all good. They fitted a reconditioned gearbox too (which I supplied) - no problem with the fitting, but the 'box itself caused some problems completely unconnected with Robsport's work.

     

    They are not the cheapest and will probably send all your components away for overhaul, but can't fault their work. They also fitted the CV conversion to my car when the rubber doughnuts deteriorated and fitted a new rear spring to overcome the 40 year sag!

     

    Worth giving Simon a call - they usually have a waiting list of a few weeks.

     

    Gully

    • Like 1
  5. I have no issues with cities bringing in legislation to limit air pollution - the ones that do generally have pretty good public transport infrastructure. The problem is when it starts to roll out into towns served only by appallingly depleted bus routes, which is sadly the direction of travel...

     

    Gully

  6. Thanks for the extract from your article, Richard. I guess I should have been a little more specific in my musings - whilst I understand the greater cooling efficiency, my question is why that would make the temperature gauge show the temperature at the point of the sender (essentially where the water is exiting the engine) as being lower. I would have thought the thermostat would have responded to keep the temperature at that point the same as before through lower flow? The benefit of the more efficient radiator would be lower flow generally, and better cooling capacity in traffic etc.

     

    Aiden - I've a new thermostat housing to fit as mine appears to have corroded. The Haynes manual indicates to look out for this when changing the thermostat, so it was obviously a problem back in the 70's! There are some different quality gaskets around - the one from the Club shop is very thin, whereas the one from James Paddock that accompanied the housing is much thicker: almost cardboard. Hopefully one will seal with a smear of sealant!

     

    Gully

  7. I had a pin hole in the top cap section of my original radiator which stopped the draw back from the expansion bottle. I replaced it 18 months ago with a re-cored version with a modern triple core, bought from Triumph Recycler (Simon), who advertises in The Courier at better rates than his eBay site. It takes just short of a litre more water and the car seems to run slightly cooler (although I'm not sure why, as the thermostat is the same - although that will be changed soon as I have a leak from the housing...).

     

    Gully

  8. The June / July 2016 edition of Triumph World carried a 5 page article about a GT6 Mk 2 police car - the one in the photos earlier in this thread. They reunited the car with a former police driver who talked a little about her memories of the car and its use.

     

    Gully

  9. You're right that the GT6 and Vitesse filter bowls and filters are different sizes. I found out by buying GT6 filters for the bowl that I acquired from Pete Lewis (which I presume came from his Vitesse) - they were too small... So yes, the bowls are interchangeable. As to why they are different sizes, I've no idea!

     

    I removed the spin on conversion from my GT6 - never managed to get the spin on filters to seat properly and clearance to the chassis rail made it a messier job than with the bowl type.

     

    Gully

  10. I replaced the door cards on my GT6 last year with the heritage ones from Park Lane Classics. The GT6 door card is sandwiched between the door and the seal, so as Pete says, if you have an oversized seal then you will struggle. That said, I've never seen a GT6 door card with a thick carpet finish as shown in your photo and suspect that may be your problem. They were originally vinyl top half and a very short pile material bottom half stuck to thin hardboard. My passenger door card took a few months of being closed before the pile material compressed sufficiently to return to normal operation!

     

    Gully

  11. I have that on mine - as you say, it's a breather through to below the tank. The diagram also shows the breather / pipe connecting from the bottom of the filler housing to take any over-filled / spilt fuel from the hole in the bottom of the filler housing through to the gauge float switch. Most of the sender units no longer have the attachment, so the pipe was initially missing on mine, which meant the fuel going into the bottom of the rear wing and stinking out the car as it evaporated! Added a pipe and took that through the bottom of the floor via a grommet too, but a better solution may have been to block up altogether: however, I wasn't sure if it functioned as a tank breather too.

     

    Gully

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