Gully
-
Posts
1,308 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
16
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by Gully
-
-
My GT6 with 13lb rad cap will perform in a similar manner. I got caught in a bad traffic queue a few weeks ago: engine was up to temperature when I met the back of the queue. Over the next 35-40 min we crept forward, with me eyeing the temperature gauge. It moved from just below half (its usual position) to around 3/4 quite quickly, then slowly moved up to just below the red where it sat for 10 minutes before I cleared the queue and got onto the A1. Within a mile of normal flowing traffic the gauge was reading its usual mark again. I flushed my block through when I changed the rad to an updated core one last year.
Gully
-
Just one thought back on thread (perish the idea!) - I had a thrumming style noise from the rear of my GT6 when it was running too much rear toe. Disappeared when the wheels were properly aligned - free fix too!
Gully
-
Welcome! Great to see a lovely early car
Gully
-
I've used the club shop aerosols and touch up paints with Halfords primers (standard and high build) with no compatibility issues.
Gully
-
Yes, the infamous spragg washer! Last time I replaced the "O" rings one washer spragged the length of the garage, never to be seen again!
The Rimmer kit is expensive because it's universal and contains every bit for every Stromberg variation. Except the jet for the late GT6 mk3! I realized to late that the kit had the wrong jets.
Although Rimmers stock both early and late jets separately, the universal kit comes only with the early jets.
To add insult to injury they refused to swap the jets because my jets were part of a kit.
That's useful to know - thanks Doug
Gully
-
20/50 engine oil is fine for dashpots. If it's disappearing quickly there's an "O" ring on the piston that probably needs replacing. Did mine 3 years ago and I think they need doing again!
Is that the o-ring around the needle adjusting screw which is retained by the infamous spragg washer? Have thought about doing mine, but keep deciding that topping up the dash pots more often is considerably easier!
Gully
-
A Wanner like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-WANNER-OIL-GUN-Direct-From-Myford/120889885221
Wow, pricey indeed at £75. I've never yet found a grease/oil gun that actually got anything past the ball valve in the nipple, including a gun much the same as the shop one, so I've used the top-up routine. But if there's anything affordable that someone swears by I'd love to know!
My Wanner gun was either £15 or £18 from the autojumble at Luton Transport Festival. It copes fine with pumping EP80/90 through a grease nipple as long as it's aligned okay. £75 seems somewhat over-priced...
Gully
-
My GT6's engine mounts look like your discarded ones - I've been wondering if they might be contributing to the clutch judder I'm getting in reverse gear (particularly bad when the engine bay temps are high).
Gully
-
It's the trip reset for the speedo. The end labelled speedo screws into the back of the speedometer and the other end mounts just under the fascia. Can never remember which way it turns, but it turns the trip back to OOO.O
Gully
-
1
-
-
Pete, you forgot Pom Pom slippers!
Mother's just bought a giant fur lined boot. You put both feet in, turn it on, then heat and vibration. Marvellous, I want one.
Sounds like a GT6 footwell!
-
... except Japanese cars which also commonly have indicators on the *right* side. They drive on the correct side of the road over there as they were never conquered by Napoleon and never divorced the British acrimoniously (the USA). I've converted my modern to be the same as the Spit and my Nearest & Dearest's Japanese car. I've declared it to the insurance company as a safety feature!
Yes Jim, Triumphs and most British cars of the 60's & 70's (as opposed to imported ones, and foreign-owned companies such as Ford & Vauxhall) had indicators correctly positioned on the right of the steering wheel. Unfortunately, the power of the two big American owned companies combined with Company Car culture of the time forced what had morphed into the Leyland empire to fall into line as the 80's dawned and move the indicators to the wrong side.
Cheers, Richard
All subjective as to right and wrong. I learnt to drive in the 1980s and until I bought my Triumph had never owned or driven a car with indicators on the rhs. My Dad's Mk 1 Escort had them on the right, but from his Mk2 Escort onwards they've been on the left. My wife's 1990's Nissan Primera also had them on the left. If I had the choice I'd go for indicators on the left as that's what I'm most used to, but I don't actually care!
As for the stickers, I think the headlamps one was the first thing to fall of my Triumph after I bought it!
Gully
-
Good to see another Herts & Beds GT6! Looks like it's had a new rear spring?
Hope to see you at Duxford or The Crown,
Gully
-
1
-
-
What could be better than live music, a pub and a great atmosphere.
Good beer / black stuff!
Gully
-
My GT6 has a lucas AB12 electronic ignition fitted. I experimented with different plug gaps (having re-gapped from 31 thou to the book value when I first serviced the car) and found 30 thou to be best - car seemed 'flat' with the gap in line with the handbook.
Gully
-
I successfully tackled the cleaning of the green Jewel light in-situ on Sunday morning using hi-tech workshop equipment - namely lightly moistened cotton buds! Holding the speedo up to the sunlight, all three jewels now shine beautifully
Gully
-
This is the small jewel in the dial ?? They do remove but probably mend it to destruction
pete
I suspected that may be the case!
Thanks all - I'm sure I can live with it
Gully
-
I'm going to be changing my GT6 speedometer for a correct ratio version as I picked one up recently (also the bearings in mine are going). However, I've noticed the oil pressure green plastic 'jewel' in the replacement is dirty and / or damaged - quick attempt to clean it with a cotton bud did nothing. Are these removable without taking the gauge apart, or not, please? The one in my current speedo is fine, so I'm thinking I could swap them over.
Thanks,
Gully
-
Does this seem like theres some metric threads creeping in to supplies
these captive nuts do get abused. Left loose , nashed and trashed has someone tapped oversize it to reclaim a thread ???
The captive nuts look in decent enough condition and the existing cones screw in with no problems at all. The nuts supplied with the new polyurethane cones don't fit the removed cone threads, so could be a case of metrication, or just error. The new cones came with two nuts and two anti-shake washers on each thread, so clearly not expecting to be screwed into a 1970s captive nut!
Gully
-
Another vote for Wanner guns here - I have one for grease and one for EP90. I've not had issues with leakage.
Gully
-
Thess are the small buttons that keep the bonnet edge away from the base of the screen
Caspers link is the correct part
Club shop sell good grade threaded support cones , the ones doug mentions
Pete
I've just bought some polyurethane bonnet cones from Rimmers as I was fed us with adjusting the relatively new but crumbling rubber ones on my car. Unfortunately, the GT3 Mk3 cones screw into a sliding captive nut and the Rimmers ones have the wrong thread. I'll be complaining and sending back tomorrow...
Next stop the Club ones - need to order a few other bits anyway!
Gully
-
Glad to see you're out and about blogging again! You're not the only Triumph driver currently making the most of foreign climes - I passed a very nice looking French registered Dolly Sprint on the M25 yesterday!
Look forward to hearing all about it
Gully
-
Welcome!
Gully
-
One of those semi skilled muppets at a tyre centre in Stevenage managed to strip 3 nuts across 2 wheels on my GT6 trying to put 110 lbs on them - thought a Ford Focus spec would be about right... I'm still on the original studs!
Since then I've left the car at home and taken only the wheels to have tyres put on, before reattaching myself!
Gully
-
Thanks, Pete!
Gully
GT6 cylinder head
in Engine
Posted
My books say from Jan 72 the Triumph 2000 cylinder head was fitted to the GT6 - from engine KE10001. The domed pistons were introduced to make up some of the difference caused by the deeper combustion chambers, but the compression ratio still dropped from 9.25:1 to 9.0:1. The milder camshaft introduced at the same time to improve emissions didn't help performance either.
The GT6 Mk3 parts book suggests a further change at KE20000.
Gully