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Gully

TSSC Member
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Posts posted by Gully

  1. Hi all,

     

    My GT6's speedo needle has always been a bit wavy at certain speeds, which I've put down to the need for a bit of cable lubrication required at some stage. However, over the past couple of weeks the speedo has developed a rotation- related scrape, which is fully speed dependent. Mostly clears above 45mph, but is present up to that and also when slowing below it again. The scrape is in time with the waving needle and poking my hand under the dash whilst moving I can feel the scrape through the speedo body. Mileometer seems to be unaffected. I'm wondering if the cable is not fully engaged in the speedo, or if there could be a bearing issue in the speedo. Any thoughts or guidance welcomed!

     

    Many thanks,

     

    Gully

  2. I completed the same upgrade a year or so ago. I piggybacked a live feed from the wiper switch (which I changed to a rocker unit at the same time) and earthed to the body via the pump mounting. Current is low and not for any protracted period; Triumph's fuses easily accommodate!

     

    Gully

  3. Not sure what car you have, but Robsport picked up that the NS driveshaft was lightly contacting the chassis of my Mk 3 GT6 when they undertook the CV conversion. There is a very slight twist to my chassis which was the cause. The removal of a minute section of flange overcame the issue for my car - it really was a very slight rub - but depending on the extent of problem you have, you may need a different solution.

     

    Gully

  4. I know it was the standard equipment, but for my money 1st gear was too tall - no argument with those who are happy with the compromise on acceleration in favour of non-overdrive cruising. Without OD, my feeling was that the gearbox needed a wider range of gearing. Each to their own.

     

    Gully

  5. Pete's right about avoiding over gearing. When I bought my GT6 it had a 3.27 diff and overdrive - rarely used the overdrive (aside from motorway / dual carriageway blasts) and pulling away uphill took way too much clutch slipping for my liking. Swapped to a 3.63 diff and it's ideal gearing for 'fun' roads and perfectly happy on faster stuff. I think Cookie runs the same combination.

     

    Gully

  6. Well, I wrote to the editor praising the new look, but criticising the paper used inside, and was delighted to receive an immediate reply. The publisher has promised an improved paper stock for the next issue - more aligned with the previous quality, which is great news. Top marks to TW editor, Simon Goldsworthy, for both responding to both my message and addressing the paper issue - thank you.

     

    Gully

  7. This thread's taken an interesting direction! I'd never considered I may have the wrong door seals as mine look worn enough to be original - Furflex finished, but a thin balloon seal profile. They've clearly been in place a long time and look 'period' so were clearly replaced at some point in the car's life.

     

    With regards to the join point, mine are jointed in the middle of the sill.

     

    Gully

  8. In the GT6 / Vitesse workshop manual there is a table giving the laden and unladen geometry figures. Interestingly, in the unladen state the rotoflex cars have the same front and rear toe figures, but in the laden state whilst the front toe is the same, the rear is greater on the GT6 - testament to different springs I guess. My point is that I don't think you can assume the Spitfire and Herald figures are the same.

     

    Gully

  9. My handbook states 'place the jack under a body mounting bolt at the corner of the chassis nearest to the wheel being lifted. Make sure the jack lifting pad is square on the chassis'.

     

    So the key is making sure you're on the chassis and not the tub! I tend to use the same points at the rear as I do with the trolley jack, whereas I trolley jack the front under the crossmember as opposed to under the outrigger body bolts with the scissor jack.

     

    Gully

  10. Thanks for the progressive outlook, Jane. All sounds very positive and, most importantly, controlled!

     

    As many have said, the different social media seem to have different uses - very much horses for courses. I wouldn't ask about my overdrive on Twitter and expect to get a useful answer in 140 characters! However, I'll happily post pictures of my car or Triumphs at car shows generally via Facebook - on both my own feed and posted to the TSSC group. Forums (or Fora for the pedants) are great for technical stuff as they become excellent archives.

     

    The important thing is for the Club to be accessible to people through whichever route suits them.

     

    Gully

    • Like 1
  11. I must admit to being a little disappointed that TSSC has stuck with the tax disc membership indicator again this year. I thought it a nice novelty last year, but I, like many others I'm sure, have now gone down the route of a 'period' tax disc and finding room for two holders on a GT6 windscreen isn't ideal. I wonder if we will return to the smaller cling sticker at some stage? Anyone else had similar thoughts?

     

    Cheers,

     

    Gully

  12. I have a similar issue apparently developing to that outlined above, but with slight differences as outlined below...

     

    The D type overdrive on my GT6 has started engaging slowly, or struggling to engage under load. If I take the load off the drivetrain it engages smoothly and quickly, staying engaged under all conditions without slipping. My first thought was that the oil level in the gearbox was low (it does leak), but having checked it and topped up a little as required (100ml), the problem remains. I'm guessing it's a tunnel out and check the solenoid throw and clean the filters as the next step, unless anyone has any other pearls of wisdom?

     

    Many thanks,

     

    Gully

  13. The issue with the iPad is that when you press and hold the thumbnail you get various options for it (save, open in new window etc), but the location property is embedded in the menu header and inaccessible. If you open in a new tab, the header URL is shown as a general TSSC zone, but not the specific file - no idea why on that. I guess the way forward if working solely on an iPad would be to actually save the thumbnail within the gallery as a separate image, or back onto the photo stream and then upload again as a new image.

     

    Thanks again,

     

    Gully

  14. I've managed to upload a photo into my galley now, but blowed if I can work out how to make it my avatar! I suspect the photo is too large, as when I select the option to use it as my photo I just get a small box that I can move around the image, but not enlarge. Guess I need to get off the iPad and onto the PC where my photo software is and try a smaller file size...

     

    Still - a step closer

     

    Gully

  15. Thanks all. Having gone back to the job in the daylight today (was racing dusk last night and an appointment with a pint at our local TSSC meeting!), I removed the new panel and still found the door tricky to close. Turns out a former piece inside the capping had been pushed upwards by the better fitting panel and was causing the issue. Bit of reshaping with the Stanley knife and the door card fitted without fettling. Still a little more difficult to close than before, but nothing that won't bed in. Just the driver's side to do now!

     

    Doug - yes, PLC do make the 'proper' repro split vinyl and fabric panels - that's what I have. Not sure about the colours, but my originals were black and so are the replacements. I've also managed to save and re-use the little silver capping on the door card - I'm sending Owen some detail pictures of those as whilst he knew of the capping trim, he'd never actually seen it.

     

    Gully

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