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I used to have a 1500 and I had a tidy up recently and you guessed it got rid of the Haynes manual. So please excuse my ignorance but not sure where the PRV is, help would be appreciated. Steve

Hi All, I started to clean my replacement engine today, it had obviously been leaking oil for quite some time as it came covered in oil mixed with dirt, such that I could scrape it off with a putty knife. Reason for the leak, the sump bolts were not done up tight. So having removed the sump there was a residue of oil left and as I drained it into a tub this fell out with the oil. I really don't know what it may have come from, the engine is a 1500 which would have been fitted to the Dolomite 1500 cars. Thanks for any help. Steve

Thanks for the replies, I don't want to reduce it by much was thinking of one of the 1/2 inch blocks from Canleys. That and the weaker spring may help. Thanks Steve

Does using a lowering block stop the rear end tuck. I have just refurbished the spring and wondered if it was worth fitting one at this point. The car is a 13/60 and I am pretty sure it is original so although refurbished is obviously a little weaker now. Any thoughts welcomed. Thanks Steve

Hi All, Well yes it did seem easy at the time. So where to start, I purchased this as a complete unit ie straight out of a car, so in theory it can, apart from a few things to change it should be relatively straightforward. I initially asked for a Spitfire 1500 engine and gearbox, the person I bought this from is well known and has been trading for years and he said what I have got is a very good MG engine and gearbox with no mention of any issues flitting it. OK so I think I have a 1500 spitfire engine as fitted to MG Midgets with a Morris gearbox, I was told that a 13/60 manifold will fit and I purchased a stainless exhaust as well. I will need to change the flange on the gearbox as it is to big as has been said, the engine mounts are different but i have some and had a look and I think they will fit, they are smaller so not sure they are OK for a heavier load. I have a shorter prop if that is required. Thanks for all the replies. Steve

Hi, Thanks for the replies, the engine and gearbox are complete so no problems with the splines, but was going to separate it to check if the clutch is ok. Was surprised that the gearlever was not present will contact the seller, if not Mathew I will be in touch.if that is OK. Thanks Steve

Hi, I have just bought a 1500 MG engine and gearbox. Has anybody fitted one to a Herald please and any tips help would be most appreciated. The gearbox came without a gearlever, does the Herald one fit?. Will give it a good clean and then find any identification to help with any parts needed, looks like sump gasket set for example. Thanks Steve

Hi All, Well managed to remove the heater box and it was with the help of a piece of 2x1 piece of wood. I managed to get the wood between the heater and the bulkhead and lever the round air outlet away from the bulkhead, it wasn't held by much but would not have been at all easy without the leverage. Getting it back is easy as I said in my original post as all that is needed is gently pushing down on the air outlet to help it into the hole. Thanks for the replies, Steve

Hi all, Looking for one of these please, photo attached. Thanks Steve

Hi Colin, Done all that and it is free to move. I can't seem to be able to move it forward enough to even be able to lift the threads clear. This is one I have removed before and it was easy to do ie threads in lower gently and then ease the heater through the hole. Try again tomorrow morning. Thanks Steve

Hi All, The service manual says remove cables etc and the nuts from under the unit and remove. Simple? I have removed one in the past and found it difficult to remove but easy to refit, such that I wondered what I was having all the trouble with. Well here I am again having difficulty removing one. Is there a simple technique to it please. Thanks Steve

Has anybody refurbished the hinges on our cars ie ďilled our and fitted oversized pins, the pins for sale are original size so would have to cut new ones from steel rod. Want to do mine, a Herald, and was thinking that whilst doing it I would drill a hole to fit a tapered grease nipple, tapered rather than tap a thread. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks Steve

Hi Pete, Yes it is a start capacitor, my search skills are not the best have looked loads of capacitors but not the right ones. This is the second compressor with a failed capacitor, the first one was still in warranty, as it appears to be common I was hoping someone had the same issue and resolved it. Thanks Steve

Hi All, I have a compressor with a failed capacitor 150 uf 350v. When it failed I did a search and found one for approximately 40£ looking now I can only find one at 70£, I know prices have been increasing but almost 100%. If anybody has sourced on of these I would grateful of any help. Thanks Steve

Hi Peter, The pistons that came out were in good condition with no rust to speak of and the same with the bores so that bodes well when it all goes back together. I will post on the outcome for future reference for others doing this. It also occurred to me that there are several suppliers selling the seal kits that if the failure rate was as suggested to me that it would be well known about and that does not seem to be the case.

Hi all, Thanks for the replies, some good ones, the reply from Pete h makes sense, but yes why?. Thanks Steve

Hi All, No names but it was by a parts supplier who said it to me. I have new bridge seals and will make sure that all is clean the pistons came out without any scoring in the bores. I was thinking of using a flat surface ie a piece of glass and a very fine wet and dry paper to just move the mating faces across the paper. This I hope would clean any contamination that I may have missed and highlight any high or low spots and identify if it needs facing or not. I can understand refurbishments are faced off as they are an unknown quantity and would be as new when sold. Thanks Steve

Took the spring apart and cleaned all the rust and years of dirt and oil etc only to Find when clean that the top leaf has an F stamped on it. Asked a very knowledgeable person about this and they said that the replacement ones do not have an F on them and did not know why the originals did. Not doubting this person opinion as he must have fitted loads over the years. Just wondered if anyone had any thoughts experience of this. Thanks Steve

HI, Have taken the calipers apart removed the pistons and I am about to put back together with new pistons seals etc, I have just been told by someone that they have never known this work as they have to be refurbished professionally. Apparently they are refaced during refurbishment. I can get this done if needs be and think it would be the best thing at this point in time rather than put them together only to find that they don't work. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Steve

Thanks guys, Don't you just love this forum, ask a question and hey presto. Thanks Steve

Thanks Clive and Pete, I have sent Chic Doig an email asking about availability and price. That may be a more expensive route but I can ask for all the associated parts which save a lot of time. I have a shorter prop bought at Stafford many years ago If either of you could let me know how much to cut that would be a great help. Thanks Steve

I am thinking of putting a 1500 engine with an overdrive gearbox into my 13/60. Do I need to make any adjustments to the gearbox tunnel, or will I need a Spitfire tunnel. Thanks Steve

Hi Josef, I bought what was advertised as a 13 60, I then found that it was a 1200 with a 1360 bonnet. The problem was that I did not realise until I purchased a trim set from Rimmers for the 13 60 that the seats were 1200, assumed that they were the same but alas no. The main difference is the shape of the sides of the frame, inside each side of the seat cover is a piece of something like hardboard in my case shaped for the 13 60. Fortunately I was able to make pieces to match the 1200 frames and when fitted were ok. The other thing was on the top of the frame were two l shaped pieces which are not on my other 13 60 so they were removed. After a lot of fiddling I have managed to get it looking good. Hope this helps. Steve

Hi All, Thanks for all the replies. Having uploaded the images I seem to have lost the text so appologies if is repeated. I should have said that iam restoring two 13 60 Heralds but had Dolomites so it could be a Dolomite part. It is not obvious what it is so it will go in the bits unknown tin. Thanks Steve h

Hi All, When or if, but I am sure when someone identifies this I will say of course I knew what it was for, but sure as heck not now. Thanks Steve