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Hi All, Thanks for all the replies, I have decided to replace the seals in the rear brake cylinders so all round now all new seals, forgot to say that new hoses fitted to the calipers and now new hoses to the rears so all rubber components replaced. I also took the opportunity to dismantle the adjusters clean and grease them with copper grease, Little if any of the old fluid has weeped from the brake pipes but will blow it through. Again thanks for all the replies will keep an eye on things as I go,will not be doing lots of miles but will carry a spare bottle of fliud. Steve

Hi All, I have used sillicone fluid in my clutch which has new seals in the master cylinder and has a new slave cylinder. I have reconditioned calipers that has had no fluid yet along with reconditioned master cylinder. I want to use silicone for the brakes but not replace the rear cylinders as all seems fine . It used to be said that all seals that had been using normal fluid had to be changed as they should not then be used with the new silicon fluid. The fluid I purchased from Rimmers states that the fluid can be used in existing systems without any issues other than if you do not remove all the old fluid you would then be mixing the two and therefore reducing the effect of the silicone fluid. Has the silicone fluid changed to make this possible or was it not the case years ago. I will use a tube into a jar and apply light pressure with an airline to remove any old fluid at both rear brakes and when I bleed with the new fluid will expect to discard the first small amount that comes out and then bleed normally. Any views or help appreciated. Steve

Thanks guys, The wanner gun looks a good bet. I have just fitted new UJs to the propshaft and ball joints which also have grease nipples, so it wont get much use. The irony is I bought a new gun for the Trunions a while ago and it was useless for the job, .oil everywhere so I gave it away,used a draper oil can which did the job really well Thanks Steve

I am looking for a small grease gun as there are only a few places to grease on the Herald, one that uses a cartridge. Have done a search to no avail. Steve

Hi Johny, Got it. Thanks. Steve

.Hi All, I don't seem to be able to refit the top cover as the selector forks do not line up. Shown are two gearboxes, the differences in measurements are due to me moving the gears on the ieft to show any movement available. Please note nothing has been undone or replaced they are as I took the covers off and the came off without any problems, I don't remember though if the gears moved ie sprang back a little, plus it all rotates freely. Where I am at a loss is that something has to move and it can't be the gear where the large selector sits as it is as far to left as it goes and it moves back and forward freely. I should have taken a picture of the forks to show that they are in the neutral position, all three grooves lined up. Thanks for any advice. Steve

H All, I am trying to remove the speedo drive from a spare gearbox which I want to use to replace one in the car which is leakng oil quite badly. this gearbox was removed from another car when I started to restore it and was working fine. Unfortunatly the alloy threaded part is damaged so it needs to be replacced. I have removed one of these in the distant past but I am not able to remove it, I have removed the retaining bolt and if I rotate the shaft the speedo rotates as well so all seems free, I have also turned the shaft as I pulled on the drive to ease the drive pinion out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Steve

Hi All, Thanks for your replies, as Pete says the basics are not difficult so it is back to basics. I have removed the carburettor and will check it all out and set it up as described. Thanks Steve

Hi Nonmember, Thanks for that will find it. Interestingly the Haynes manual has a chapter on what to do with an SU carb that won't start. Thanks Steve

Hi non member It has been sitting dry and garaged so it may not need cleaning, and as I said it all seems to all move OK, but something is not right so I will give it a clean and set it up as said. Was hoping that the manual would have said about an initial state of tune. Thanks Steve

Hi aĺl Engine will not fire up. Fitted all new electrics, points plugs etc and new fuel pump. Electrics fine as strong spark at plug. Fuel pump working fine as checked fuel at the pipe entering the carburettor and fresh fuel lnto carburettor float chamber. The engine with this carburettor used to start first time but has not been started for a couple of years. Fresh fuel not e10 into an empty tank so no contaminated fuel. Diaphragm is in good condition and all moving parts sèem to move freely. Manual says to tune the carburettor the engine has to be warm, so that's a lot of help. I am obviously missing something basic, but am at a loss as to what. Also bought some Easy Start and the engine fired but did not run, so assume that the plugs are working OK. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Steve

Hi Steveo The ones I purchased from Chic Doig a while ago are double skinned and are a thicker material and have the body mount spot welded in place. Knowing the quality of work that Chic produces this would suggest that the originals were double skinned. Steve

Hi All, Thanks for the replies. Chrishawley mentioned that it has been standard not to split the calipers into their two halves. Providing the o ring is replaced (which comes with the kit) both faces are clean and the bolts are torqued correctly what could be an issue. By the way they are type 14. Thanks Steve

Hi Pete, Should have said it is a 13 60. Steve

Hi all, I am going to fit new parts seals etc to my calipers, first how do I remove the seized or just stubborn, pistons, not on the car I am sorry to say and should I replace the pistons as well regardless. Second how do I identify which type of caliper ie 12 or 14. Thanks Steve

Hi All, A couple of things that may help others replacing trunnions, 0one having cleaned up the trunnions and the stub axle assembly I noticed the axle assembly's are stamped right and left as well so nice and easy. Also found that the trunnions were greased not oiled so a note to one of the things to check when acquiring a new car. I say this as the car cam from a guy who was also selling a Vitesse and a Frogeye Sprite and appeared to be knowledgeable, I know never assume. Steve

Hi Doug, I am rebuilding the running gear on my 13/60 project so these are not new. They are stamped right and left so no problem there. Steve

Hi All, A simple question that I think I know the answer. The trunnions are fitted right and left but I assume the car is viewed right from the drivers position. I have fitted some to my other car so I will check that I have fitted them correctly. Thanks Steve

Hi Colin, Sorry I don't remember the company but there was a recent post on here about seals and door seals. They supplied the correct door seals ie, I think they may be the ones similar to the ones that Bill Davies sold that were not oversized enabling the door to to close correctly. I have the beige ones from Rimmers which are good quality but slightly oversized. Steve

Hi, Picture taken today. Two things, the difference in colour, why? And the gap, it is not quite centralised but there is still gap either end?. Any help from anyone who has fitted a moulded carpet would be good. Steve

Hi Badwoolf See page one post 11. It seems to work for me. After spraying, as recomended I went over the lacquer with fine steel wool which left a dull finish, the polish then gives the result that you see in the pictures. Steve

Hi, Thanks for the replies. I am like you Colin, I live adjacent to a disused railway line which is now a cycle, walk trail. A local group are reinstating the line on part of the track bed, Well very simply one of the volunteers has a Triumph Tolledo and I will be working in my workshop on my Triumphs when they all go home and I know it is 4pm when I here him drive away it is the Triumph sound and I really would miss that. I am lucky I have two 13/60 Heralds and therefore I can have the best of both worlds. Very simply I mostly drive short distances on B road's for a distance of approx 20 miles there and back. So my project car would be perfect for this, no high fuel costs and good feeling that my journeys that I take are not essential, a drive to the sea cliffs to walk the dog would be so good. My other car would give me the fun of driving a traditional car and my euro box is for long journeys Steve

Hi, Not wishing to hijack the thread but I will be looking for an engine for my Herald project in the near future. I started a thread about fitting an Electric motor instead which did not attract many positive, posts. Is this a way forward? My reasoning is this, I would go to someone like Chic Doig for a 1500 engine with an overdrive gearbox I am estimating that this would be in the region of 1500 pounds plus delivery costs of possibly 200 pounds. In the next few years as the amount of electric cars increase there will be a corresponding amount of electric cars written of due to accidental damage therefore the amount of parts available should increase. The battery would be of value to the breakers so that might not be that cheap. I did a Google search and an American site suggested buying a Toyota (sorry I can't remember the model of the top oh my head) as a doner car for 3000 dollars, again during the search there was an article about an electric Herald. So will this be feasible in the future, probably not for me due to age but the date for the end of petrol/diesel production is not that far away 2030. Steve

Hi, I purchased a moulded carpet set for my Herald from Rimmers but is made by Newton Commercial and it is great apart from the piece of carpet that goes at the end of the floor under the rear seat. Rather than try to describe it I will post a picture tomorrow, and hope for some guidance. Not wishing to distract from your thread Rockape but you and I will be not be alone here In trying to get a good fit from what are otherwise good carpets. Steve

Hi all, As said earlier I found a similar problem in that the Melamine lacquer that I used dried within 5 minutes and one it made for a rushed job and the edges tended to either not have enough or to much lacquer, so used a spray gun. Although this uses more lacquer it is lots of thin coats which make for an easier finishing process. I then used a Polish similar to Briwax, but it said on the tin not for use where the wax can get wet. I thought that this would be ok as if it did get wet and was affected by the rain, it's a Convertible so less likely, it, could be removed and waxed again. Would just a waxed veneer, if it got wet and damaged such that the veneer could stain?. That is genuine question not which is the best way to finish the veneer. Steve