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Thanks everybody, Some good things to check there, I think it is a simple thing to sort, will post the outcome if it helps others with the same issue. Steve

Hi, Just to add it is the locking type and just locked on James Paddocks Web site and all the parts are available. Steve

Looking to get the second Herald started, when I bought it, it started first time and it needed lots of bits doing to it to get it to where I wanted. Gearbox leaking oil, water leaks from holes in the metal under the battery wiring loom needing some TLC.etc. I replaced points, plugs and leads, rotor arm and distributor cap. It then refused to start and was not able to apply much time to that. I now have time to devote to that and will sort it. All the electrics are working except for the fuel gauge which when the ignition is turned on the gauge increases slowly to full but the tank is empty. I fitted a replacement tank and the sender may be stuck in the full position?. Is the sender easy to take out to check and replace, fitting new seal/gasket without leaks, will check connections but not able to get to it today. Sorry a bit long winded but wanted to paint the picture. Thanks Steve

Hi, Interesting article in the Telegraph today on the Herald. Bought a copy, had to hide it when I came out of the shop in case anyone I knew saw me. The front page header showed a Signal Red Herald, basically saying how a not very good car had become a classic icon. Inside was an accurate reflection on its downsides, doors flying open,lack of power the notorious back end tuck etc, it then explained why it was built on a chassis and ended on a positive note and stating that the amount of Heralds still around ( 2000 plus) compared to for example the Ford Anglia which were built in much greater numbers said a lot about its appeal. The newspaper is in my workshop, if anybody wants to know the figures l will post later. Steve

Hi Cliff, Be interesting to see how you get on. Hope it goes well as it will save a lot of work when using PVA glue and will be of use to others who want to replace veneer. Steve

Hi All, If you do not know anything about Chapman and Cliff they are ex Rolls Royce apprentices and produce high quality work. That leaflet must be at least 15 years old but that is the method I have used twice now. I think there is specific veneer glue available now but stayed with what I knew. Tips, use plenty of clamps, I used 8, I used a quality wood (PVA) glue on the latest and diluted it slightly, the edges and holes can dry so pay more attention to that, the pressure will force very small amounts of glue through the veneer but rather is dealt with when sanding. The lacquer was brushed on at first but it drys quickly leading to uneven lacquer on the tricky parts, so then flatted and then lots of coat with a spray gun flatting in between then a final rub down with fine steel wool and a polish. When I bought the veneer first time it was enough to do one dashboard, from the Wood Veneer Hub you can choose the amount, I chose the smalest piece and it was enough to do two dashboards and more, so choose your own length and you can do lots of practice. American Straight Grained Walnut was the original used by Triumph according to Chapman and Cliff but if you wanted the dashboard to look as if it had aged then there was an alternative and as it was years ago, sorry don't remember but I am sure that a search will find it, The Wood Veneer Hub were very helpful and may be able to help, I was also told that they supply Rolls Royce with veneer so they have good quality stock, alas no am not on commission. Hope this is of use. Steve

Just thought I should have given credit to the instructions in the third photograph. This came with a purchase of veneer and lacquer from Chapman and Cliff. Not sure if they still supply materials now, a search on their Web site did not give any ordering details. Steve

Hi Colin. The photgraph of the lacquer I used has the invoice from the suppliers of both the veneer and the lacquer. Steve

Hi Colin, Thanks, I will measure the holes in the wing and see the difference. I am convinced that the holes are original and that it is a case of something manufactured in 1969 and now 2021. So I will keep the rear hole and dril a new one forward of that. Thanks Steve

Hi Colin, Here are some photographs that you may find useful if you decide to reveneer a dashboard. Steve

Hi Colin, I have revineered two dashboards now will post a picture tomorrow so you can see what can be accomplished, The original veneer was American straight grained walnut. I will post more details when I find the relevant info. Steve

Thanks for the replies, I do not want to cut one of the pins off and use adhesive, and will drill another hole, but which hole do I use the one nearest the rear of the wing or the one nearest the front. I have two Heralds the other one was sold as a 13/60 but had 1200 bits and no holes in the wing for the badges, so unfortunately not much help for comparisons. I will hope for someone with an original badge to let me know the measurement. Thanks Steve

Hi Colin, That is where the holes are where your badges are. At the end of the trim strip is what is left of a metal pin ie a small piece of rusty metal. So as you look at the rear of the wing there are three holes two near each other and one at the end of the trim strip. It also the same on the other side. Steve

I purchased a crossed flag badge, only one as that was all they had in stock (more due in I am told). All the holes in the rear wings appear to be original, but the badge pins do not relate to the holes. Has anyone purchased new badges recently and experienced this, or does anyone have original badges and could post the dimensions. I also remember posts a while back that said that the quality of replacement badges were not that good, well I have to say that the quality of this one is really good. Thanks Steve

Hi Jeff's, Good luck with the body tub, you will get lots of help from on here, sorry as I can't of the top of my head think who posted it but somebody made a rod threaded each end and then used that to gently adjust the tub. I am sure you would be able to find it with a search, if not here then it may be on the Club Triumph site. Wish you well and the gap at the top should be 45 1/12 inches. Wish you well with your treatment as well. All the best. Steve

Thanks RogerH, I will do that in future, sound advice. Sreve

Hi, I purchased new points, rotor arm, distributor cap and new leads for my, new to me at the time 13/60. It went from starting first time every time to not starting at all. I am restoring another 13/60 at the moment so have been concentrating on that. Have found the rotor arm and distributor cap and that will at some stage swop those back and see how it goes. So why did I do that when it was all going well, I am asking myself the same question. It is not good though to not have the confidence in what you buy.

The restoration of my 13/60 is coming along well. When I took it of the road one of the reasons was a due to a knackered engine. I was thinking of replacing it with a 1500 engine with an overdrive gearbox. Was thinking to get a decent replacement would be in the region of £1500. The amount of eletric cars is increasing and the amount of cars being written off due to accidents will also be on the increase. Does anybody have any views on converting a Herald or any small Triumph using parts in this way. I would only use the car for local use and have the ability to charge at home and locally. Appreciate the batteries will be the main cost but by not wanting 0 to 60 in seconds and not motorway speeds I will be able restrict the amount of battery capacity. Thanks for any views, opinions. Steve

RrectHi All, What I thought were Millboards were old rear 1/4 trim panels. They are hardboard, but are OK for what I want,I will put them in water to make them soft and then bend them to the correct profile and then either varnish or PVA them. Thanks for all the replies. Steve

HI, Not sure if this helps but a company in the UK called vehicle wiring products sell solder bullets and connectors as original. I repaired my loom using them, the only issue is the cable at the bullet end can be either oxidised or has heat damage such that it will not be able to accept the solder I cut these back to decent cable and replaced the damaged part with the same colour cable by soldering the cables together and then sleeving them with adhesive heatshrink sleeving. Steve

Hi all, Thanks for the replies. I have two Heralds and in theory should have two covers, one cover is from the complete Herald which is good and can be used as a pattern. As I am writing this I hope I have the old millboards from the one I am restoring, I can even remember where I stored them so I know where to look but think that they went in last clear out. Thanks again. Steve

Hi, Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for the fibre board that I screwed over the handbrake lever. Or do you know what it is made of so I can source a piece. Thanks Steve

Hi, Has anybody recently bought the crossed flags for the Herald 13/60 etc. They have been remade and I read a while ago that they re OK but only ok. Would like to buy some but is difficult without seeing them. Thanks Steve

Hi, As non member says, I met a guy with a Damson Vitesse who had a bare metal respray and was talking about the colour difference and he said that there were two colours one darker than the other. By the way what a fantastic respray it was. Steve

Hi, Don't know if this will help but the car I bought was Damson but was not sure of the paint that was used. So took the boot to the local paint suppliers to match a paint for me. So far so good, I then asked them to mix me a can to touch up a small area, can ends up darker than what they had originaly mixed for me, it transpired that the accelerant in the can caused the paint to be darker. I bought a small spray gun and used that to paint any small bits that need doing. Steve