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AndyTV8

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Posts posted by AndyTV8

  1. I agree the taps can seize, although just like any other valve, it tends to only be the case if they have not been used - I just flip mine open and closed a couple of times each year and it seems to do the job.

    ..... Andy 

  2. All the work for recent engine rebuild on my 4 was undertaken by C+M..... just about everything positive from my seat, the only downside being a longer wait than I would have liked - but that isn’t unusual for places whose services are in high demand.

    ...... Andy 

  3. As you say, best option is rolling road with updates between runs to find the best advance curve for your engine.

    You could use a programmable 123tune,  16-pre-programmed curves or the more expensive fully-programmable ones (USB or Bluetooth) 

    if you are paying by the hour for rolling road time, the second option could end up being more cost-effective.

    ...... Andy 

  4. I’v seen a lot worse than that..... in fact i’v owned daily-drivers worse than that as well :)

    agree with Pete... low £2’s.... anything in this condition and you can expect to shake out plenty of gremlins, but that is all part of the fun.

    ....... Andy 

  5. Sorry Shaun, I didn’t mean to confuse matters - my interpretation of ‘total lose’ in this case is a write-off, you have totally lost your car.

    The amount an insurance company will pay in on your behalf to repair is going to be limited by the agreed value and the terms of the policy.

    there are some policies which include a 25, or 50 or 75% ‘uplift’  whereby the insurance will payout the percentage over/above the insured value - of course, you usually pay a little more for the privilege but some folk may be happy to do so. Of course, if you have an agreed value of £15k, but you believe it would only fetch £10k if you were to sell, you kind of already have a 50% uplift!

    ....... Andy 

     

  6. Richard is spot-on in my view, there is often a blurring of sale-value and agreed value.... insurance-wise, agreed value needs to cover the cost to repair to pre-accident condition (or payout in the event of a total-loss) it wouldn’t usually be Equal to prospective sale price.

    ...... Andy 

     

     

  7. Evening All,

    i couldn’t find this mentioned elsewhere..... I know Club agreed valuations used to be valid for two years, is that still the case?

    In the past i’v had a reminder from PJ that it needed renewing, but not this time - I seem to have a distant memory that they were lengthened, can anyone confirm, or perhaps I am dreaming?

    I’ll ring tomorrow to double-check.

    cheers..... Andy 

  8. On 11/09/2019 at 16:21, watsona6 said:

     

    May try and wire a stereo up too but not too sure what I want to do speaker wise. Might just stick with the headphones. 

     

    The simple option is to have a rechargeable Bluetooth speaker in the car, then just stream music/online-radio from your phone.

    Mine has an 18hr battery-life, so easily lasts a week of daily commute without needing a charge.

    if you park up anywhere dodgy, just stick the speaker in the boot.

    ...... Andy

    p.s. I do have a radio fitted, but it is just a period-ornament to fill the mounting hole!

  9. I kept my old Stag under a Hamilton Classics outdoor cover for 8 years without suffering paintwork damage. But I did replace it every 3 years as I found there was degradation at seams and the ‘fluffyness’ of the inner lining. (The car was white, finished In 2-pack, so quite hardy)

    My current TR has the luxury of a garage, but I use a cockpit/hood cover when parked in the office car park in poor weather because it’s never going to be watertight when sat still in pouring rain for 10hrs!  The cockpit cover is also a Hamilton Classics because I’d had such good experience with the previous outdoor one.

    i checked the clubshop prices (both TSSC and TR register) but at the time, got a slightly cheaper deal by ringing the company direct.

    ‘Best Available’ is probably a Carcoon, but that was beyond the depth of my pockets.

    ....... Andy 

    forgot to add..... I’m assuming you have hard-standing without large-scale water-pooling.... parking up for an extended period on a grass surface is going to deteriorate the car quickly  due to the amount of moisture coming out of the ground

  10. Std TR4 thermostat is 82 centigrade - if a wax-type. If you have the older bellows type it is quite a lot lower, I think around 74.

    My  4  usually runs around 1/4 of the way up the gauge in moving traffic, in very warm weather that changes to around 1/3. In stop-start traffic it will get the 1/2 or a little more.

    An IR thermometer is handy to check temperature of radiator  input and outputs to confirm it’s doing a decent job of cooling - I’m running an alloy rad with the long  expansion neck, cools fine and looks nice :) . You can use the same too to check there aren’t any hot-spots elsewhere.

    Always worth remembering that these cars weren’t built to sit idling in traffic for ages, your car will soon tell you if it’s running too warm

    ...... Andy 

  11. Currently, I wouldn’t look any further than Classic Oils Heritage 20/50 .... mineral with great ZDDP defined in the right way  and at a good price. I can’t see a downside :)

    ...... Andy 

    PS. Just checked, and the pice has risen a little to £19.95 now

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