jagnut66

Well, taking one section at a time I tore off the old rubber -- literally, it has the consistency of thick card -- and then cleaned up the runners. The passenger side wasn't too rusty but the rear (below the boot lid) was a bit 'lacy' in places, anyway much scraping and cleaning out of old muck later I treated the channels and the front of the runners to a dose of waxoil. I then did the same to grooves in the new rubber. It all looked pretty straightforward at that point. A few hours later and those are the only two sections that I have (just) completed. It took quite an effort to get them on. That said, they do look allot better now they are 'degreased' and cleaned up. I also replaced my rear over-rider on the passenger side, which wasn't much fun, as the petrol tank is in the way of direct access to the bolt heads and I wasn't removing that again in a hurry. The new one is secured by the top bolt only for now, it is tight and secure, I simply couldn't get the bottom bolt to thread in, despite it winding in easily off the car. I think it's a nut alignment issue. It's all well copper greased and waxoiled for now, so I'll have another go, another day. Best wishes, Mike.

Very nice too, Burr Walnut? How did you get that centre top screw reattached / screwed back in? The one directly below the courtesy light. Or were you lucky enough not to have your nuts fall off and disappear? Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks Colin, it's the choke label insert that I'm after though, rather than a replacement knob, as the knob on the replacement cable is moulded in place. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I have some replacement white rubber (finishers? covers?) to renew the old and splitting white rubber sections on top of my Heralds bumpers. Before I make a start, I didn't notice any special clips advertised with the new rubber sections, so do the just prise / lever off the retaining metal channels / lips or are there some hidden clips i need to watch for / try and salvage? I will first unscrew the stainless end caps of course. Many thanks for any help / advice. Mike.

Hi, I have finally got round to installing my new Burr Elm dashboard, I am pleased to say it wasn't the pain to remove / replace that I was concerned it might be. Though I did take pictures of where the wiring connects behind the speedo to try and ensure I got that right when reinstalling it. I have kept these for future reference, in case I decide for fork out for a new loom and rewire her at some point. I was pleasantly surprised to find that all the switches just pushed back behind the dash easily and I simply had to feed them back through and screw their respective bezels back in place. On the down side I did succeed in loosing a couple of the nuts for the top machine screws, the lower ones were all standard screws, although I'm not convinced that the machine screw beside the glove box had one to start with, as all I found was a washer and I only heard a single clunk. Plus that side seemed to screw back tightly anyway. The drivers side one I found and with the speedo out was easy to refit. However the machine screw at the top centre of the dash lost its nut and it's not a tight fit either. Though I can't see how I'd get my hand up behind there to fit one anyway and I tried whilst the speedo was out, so that is pretty much just for show now. The only control knob that wouldn't push back through was the choke, which I pulled straight through and took out with the old dash anyway, as it needed replacing. The old cable was kinked, stiff and sounded like it was grinding ever time I operated it, plus it was only just long enough for the SU set up I now have in place, so is now in the bin. However, unless someone can point me to a source, I couldn't find a label for the new knob, which is fixed in place and doesn't remove like the old one, so I couldn't just swap them over. I have managed to 'extract' the choke label from the old knob, 'after a fashion', but if there is a source of new ones available I would be interested to know. On the up side, I now have a smooth choke operation. The only thing I have lost is the small white lettering under the little switch to the right of the steering wheel, which read 'Heater Fan', a shame but, as there's nothing I can do about it anyway..... Please excuse the fingerprint smudges on the dash in the pictures below, they have since been wiped off. I am glad I chose the Burr Elm, as I really like it now it's in place, I don't know why I haven't installed it sooner..... Best wishes, Mike.

Many thanks for the replies / tips. 👍 Talking of the clutch, is there a flywheel locking tool available that members can recommend? I have one for my 'A' series Morris engines but I doubt it will be any use for a Triumph unit. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I am now hoping that in the next couple of weeks I will get Hetty into the garage to remove the gearbox and replace it with my overdrive unit. I am also hoping I can do this through the car without the need to pull the engine out (thus minimal disruption). Do members have any helpful tips for doing this? / Things to avoid doing etc.? Any pictures of this being done would be great too. Many thanks, Mike.

Balby Motor Spares? I keep meaning to pop up and visit, as they're not too far from me. Best wishes, Mike.

Yes, that particular 'Executive' are a right bunch of OTT killjoys! Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks for the Mick Dolphin link Pete.👍 He does stock quite a variety of items and I wasn't aware of him until now. Best wishes, Mike.

That looks spot on for me, I'll 'pm' you. Many thanks, Mike.

Thanks Pete but the old barrel was scrap, I couldn't even get a key in it before removal, hence why I need both. Best wishes, Mike.

I'm not having much luck with a new replacement barrel and key, so if anyone has a spare they don't need (old and used is fine -- original parts generally tend to fit better than new ones anyway), I'd be interested. Best wishes, Mike.

Back in the land of Triumph......😉 I have dismantled the door handle I bought, as I couldn't even get a key into the lock, let alone attempt to turn it. Once apart I discovered why, the levers were bent all over the place, which may be why I had to tap / persuade the barrel out with a hammer......🙄 Anyway, there is also no visible number on the barrel, so I think I shall source another. I am going to give T D Fitchett a call tomorrow to see if they have a secondhand one to match the drivers side. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I just spotted these on eBay and thought someone on here might be interested: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185378520339?hash=item2b296bbd13:g:LjcAAOSweGZiL2JS Best wishes, Mike.

So quite simple then really. I have bought a spare drivers side handle off eBay, so I will have a barrel with that. Can anybody tell me where to find the barrel number, so I know what key will fit it and can start looking for one. I couldn't see a number when my drivers lock was removed but then I didn't remove the barrel from it's housing (as my priority was for it to be reconnected and functioning once more to secure the car). I did note that it is simply held in place with a circlip, so not a hard job. 🙂 I could buy a new one from the likes of Rimmer Bros. but I'd like to see if I can't reuse the existing one first (rather than just discard it). Best wishes, Mike.

Very close to Pete, which in turn was allowing the barrel itself to vibrate its way off the bolt whenever I drove Hetty. The small washer had reduced in width just enough to allow it to pass through. My solution was to space the nut from the head of the bolt (approximately), then Loctite the nut in place, wiping off the excess, so that it was only the spacing nut that was loctited (Is that even a word?? It is now!!) in place. Once it had gone off, I refitted the small washer and then a larger (and thicker) washer, which stopped the nut and bolt passing back through. With bolt and barrel reconnected I now have a working door lock again, sitting where it should be, slightly recessed into the handle. I haven't overtightened it with the (3/8th) spanner, so, now I know how it goes together, I can return in the future and tighten it up again, if I need to. Much better than the remains of a wooden clothes peg I found inside the door, which I suspect was holding it in place when I bought her....... 😄 Always worth having some, buy it online (cheaper than Halfords), it's not that expensive. Thanks for everyone's advice, I was expecting it to be complicated and it really isn't. So, what do people think about fitting a locking handle to the passenger door? Is it just a case of locating one for a LHD model and fitting it, or this idea more involved? Best wishes, Mike.

I will have a look ASAP. Thanks for that. If this is a known issue then would a dab of something like Loctite be a good thing to put on the threads? Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, It appears my drivers door lock button has decided it wants to part company with the rest of the handle. For the moment it has simply 'popped' free of whatever retained it in it's original position and will happily rotate 360 degrees, regardless of whether the lock is in the locked or open position. Rotating it back into a position where it can be pressed in to operate the lock is becoming a pain and if you get it wrong it sticks. Plus, going by how wobbly it's becoming, I suspect it won't be long before it parts company altogether with the rest of the handle. Wear and tear after 52 years service I guess. So I'm looking for a replacement handle, if somebody out there has a spare one (handle and lock, with its key) in good order, that they are able to part with. Please note I don't mind if the chromework isn't perfect, 'timeworn' is fine, there is nothing wrong with a little 'character'. 🙂 Many thanks, Mike.

I feel it should be regularly checked / refreshed...... sitting on the proverbial fence here I know....... Mine have been filled with grease, before I bought her, I hasten to add, so for now "grease is the word"....... However, oil was recommended by Triumph, so one day I may attempt to clean them out, though I suspect it's not a task ventured into lightly (no pun on the original topic implied or intended...😉) I'm still not a fan of LED headlamps / see no need for the excessive levels of (blinding for oncoming traffic) light they create. So Xenons will be as far as I go, the same as I have done with my Minors. But not until the sealed beams give up the ghost....... Best wishes, Mike.

Which is why I replaced my flasher can with the one in my earlier link. That was how it was explained to me. Either way, since reverting to a standard bulb for my ignition warning light I now appear to have a charging alternator, in which case my problem is resolved. I too have replaced my standard stop / tails with much brighter LED versions. For which, judging by the above comments, I can expect to be shot at dawn....... 😉 I still have my sealed beam headlights, as I have found the ones on my Herald to be surprisingly adequate. I also object to the game seemingly being played out by modern car manufacturers, of who can create the most blindingly over bright headlamps, even when they're dipped...... When they eventually fail, I have some Xenon bulbs standing by...... Is that the sound of rifles being loaded?....... Best wishes, Mike.

Already replaced, along with the flasher can itself, which is necessary because, as you said, the original is not suitable for working in conjunction with LED bulbs. The indicators are now much brighter / visible. I have posted a link to the flasher unit I have used in conjunction with the LED indicator bubs below. https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/12v-electronic-indicator-flasher-relay-classic-car-with-oe-click-x-l-p-2-3-pin?_pos=1&_sid=5a7cde233&_ss=r Best wishes, Mike.

Not sure where you are coming from on this Pete, so as a general response I will say that, like others, I have changed my dash illumination to LED bulbs so they would be brighter and therefore more visible at night. The warning bulb was simply changed along with the rest and nothing more thought about it until now. I'm sure I'm not the first and won't be the last to do this, I posted this in the hope of helping anyone else who comes up against this issue, as I certainly wouldn't have suspected the warning light bulb on my own. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I have just renewed my number plate light, having found my original severely corroded internally when I looked into what I thought was simply a blown bulb. Upon reassembly I found that, with the new unit attached to the mounting plinth, the plinth no longer sat flush to the boot lid. It didn't take long to work out why, as when I unbolted it once more there were two little depressions in the lids paintwork. As per the picture below (showing my original unit and the section of stud I had to cut off the new one), the mounting studs on the new lamp unit are about 4 to 5mm too long. Once reduced in length and with the sawn ends filed smooth it was offered back up and sat flush once more. So this is just to advise anyone else who is contemplating replacing their number plates lamp unit that they will probably have to do the same. Hopefully it will save someone else marking / cracking the surface of their paintwork. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, For sometime now, since fitting it in fact, my new alternator hasn't been charging the battery and subsequently the car would 'fail to proceed' on occasions, until I had recharged the battery anyway. I suspected the battery (was old) at first and replaced it. Latterly, upon checking the voltage readings, I found that the battery charge reading remained the same, whether the engine was running or not. Finally, fed up after a breakdown in the pouring rain, with the battery so discharged that she refused to climb the last hill before home and there wasn't even enough charge left in it for the wipers to park, I bought a new replacement alternator. I fitted it today and checked the voltage readings. No joy! Still no charge going into the battery! By now I am pulling (what's left -- hair today, gone tomorrow😉) of my hair out. Then a friend I met through our shared liking of Morris Minors popped round for a cuppa. After chatting about various things over a couple of cups of tea I mentioned my problem just as he was leaving. It turns out he had the same problem with the Minor he is rebuilding. He tried various things and was also left pulling his hair out, until that is he mentioned it to other MMOC members........ Also, like me, he has replaced all his dashboard lights with LED bulbs for better illumination. The key one being the ignition warning light. Like me his was staying on after being swapped over. Like me he didn't consider this in itself to be the cause of the problem. It turns out that there is a little diode in LED bulbs, so that when they are placed in the ignition circuit it draws power to the bulb, which then fails to go out upon start up and also stops the alternator from charging the battery...... I'm glad he came round today now, I'd never have thought of that on my own...... With the ignition warning bulb swapped back to standard I now have just over 14 Volts going into the battery with the engine running, just as it should be. I am posting this up for anyone out there, who like me, would never have suspected that updating the ignition warning light to an LED would lead to such an issue..... Knowing this, I now suspect there never was an issue with my first alternator, so I will keep it as a spare. There probably wasn't a problem with the original battery either........ C'est la vie...... Best wishes, Mike. NB: Please note that this effects the ignition circuit only, you are perfectly okay to upgrade the rest of your dashboard illumination to LEDs, though I did note that it made the headlamp warning light appear to come on when only dipped beam was selected, so I have reverted to a standard bulb for this one too.