jagnut66

So quite simple then really. I have bought a spare drivers side handle off eBay, so I will have a barrel with that. Can anybody tell me where to find the barrel number, so I know what key will fit it and can start looking for one. I couldn't see a number when my drivers lock was removed but then I didn't remove the barrel from it's housing (as my priority was for it to be reconnected and functioning once more to secure the car). I did note that it is simply held in place with a circlip, so not a hard job. 🙂 I could buy a new one from the likes of Rimmer Bros. but I'd like to see if I can't reuse the existing one first (rather than just discard it). Best wishes, Mike.

Very close to Pete, which in turn was allowing the barrel itself to vibrate its way off the bolt whenever I drove Hetty. The small washer had reduced in width just enough to allow it to pass through. My solution was to space the nut from the head of the bolt (approximately), then Loctite the nut in place, wiping off the excess, so that it was only the spacing nut that was loctited (Is that even a word?? It is now!!) in place. Once it had gone off, I refitted the small washer and then a larger (and thicker) washer, which stopped the nut and bolt passing back through. With bolt and barrel reconnected I now have a working door lock again, sitting where it should be, slightly recessed into the handle. I haven't overtightened it with the (3/8th) spanner, so, now I know how it goes together, I can return in the future and tighten it up again, if I need to. Much better than the remains of a wooden clothes peg I found inside the door, which I suspect was holding it in place when I bought her....... 😄 Always worth having some, buy it online (cheaper than Halfords), it's not that expensive. Thanks for everyone's advice, I was expecting it to be complicated and it really isn't. So, what do people think about fitting a locking handle to the passenger door? Is it just a case of locating one for a LHD model and fitting it, or this idea more involved? Best wishes, Mike.

I will have a look ASAP. Thanks for that. If this is a known issue then would a dab of something like Loctite be a good thing to put on the threads? Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, It appears my drivers door lock button has decided it wants to part company with the rest of the handle. For the moment it has simply 'popped' free of whatever retained it in it's original position and will happily rotate 360 degrees, regardless of whether the lock is in the locked or open position. Rotating it back into a position where it can be pressed in to operate the lock is becoming a pain and if you get it wrong it sticks. Plus, going by how wobbly it's becoming, I suspect it won't be long before it parts company altogether with the rest of the handle. Wear and tear after 52 years service I guess. So I'm looking for a replacement handle, if somebody out there has a spare one (handle and lock, with its key) in good order, that they are able to part with. Please note I don't mind if the chromework isn't perfect, 'timeworn' is fine, there is nothing wrong with a little 'character'. 🙂 Many thanks, Mike.

I feel it should be regularly checked / refreshed...... sitting on the proverbial fence here I know....... Mine have been filled with grease, before I bought her, I hasten to add, so for now "grease is the word"....... However, oil was recommended by Triumph, so one day I may attempt to clean them out, though I suspect it's not a task ventured into lightly (no pun on the original topic implied or intended...😉) I'm still not a fan of LED headlamps / see no need for the excessive levels of (blinding for oncoming traffic) light they create. So Xenons will be as far as I go, the same as I have done with my Minors. But not until the sealed beams give up the ghost....... Best wishes, Mike.

Which is why I replaced my flasher can with the one in my earlier link. That was how it was explained to me. Either way, since reverting to a standard bulb for my ignition warning light I now appear to have a charging alternator, in which case my problem is resolved. I too have replaced my standard stop / tails with much brighter LED versions. For which, judging by the above comments, I can expect to be shot at dawn....... 😉 I still have my sealed beam headlights, as I have found the ones on my Herald to be surprisingly adequate. I also object to the game seemingly being played out by modern car manufacturers, of who can create the most blindingly over bright headlamps, even when they're dipped...... When they eventually fail, I have some Xenon bulbs standing by...... Is that the sound of rifles being loaded?....... Best wishes, Mike.

Already replaced, along with the flasher can itself, which is necessary because, as you said, the original is not suitable for working in conjunction with LED bulbs. The indicators are now much brighter / visible. I have posted a link to the flasher unit I have used in conjunction with the LED indicator bubs below. https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/12v-electronic-indicator-flasher-relay-classic-car-with-oe-click-x-l-p-2-3-pin?_pos=1&_sid=5a7cde233&_ss=r Best wishes, Mike.

Not sure where you are coming from on this Pete, so as a general response I will say that, like others, I have changed my dash illumination to LED bulbs so they would be brighter and therefore more visible at night. The warning bulb was simply changed along with the rest and nothing more thought about it until now. I'm sure I'm not the first and won't be the last to do this, I posted this in the hope of helping anyone else who comes up against this issue, as I certainly wouldn't have suspected the warning light bulb on my own. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I have just renewed my number plate light, having found my original severely corroded internally when I looked into what I thought was simply a blown bulb. Upon reassembly I found that, with the new unit attached to the mounting plinth, the plinth no longer sat flush to the boot lid. It didn't take long to work out why, as when I unbolted it once more there were two little depressions in the lids paintwork. As per the picture below (showing my original unit and the section of stud I had to cut off the new one), the mounting studs on the new lamp unit are about 4 to 5mm too long. Once reduced in length and with the sawn ends filed smooth it was offered back up and sat flush once more. So this is just to advise anyone else who is contemplating replacing their number plates lamp unit that they will probably have to do the same. Hopefully it will save someone else marking / cracking the surface of their paintwork. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, For sometime now, since fitting it in fact, my new alternator hasn't been charging the battery and subsequently the car would 'fail to proceed' on occasions, until I had recharged the battery anyway. I suspected the battery (was old) at first and replaced it. Latterly, upon checking the voltage readings, I found that the battery charge reading remained the same, whether the engine was running or not. Finally, fed up after a breakdown in the pouring rain, with the battery so discharged that she refused to climb the last hill before home and there wasn't even enough charge left in it for the wipers to park, I bought a new replacement alternator. I fitted it today and checked the voltage readings. No joy! Still no charge going into the battery! By now I am pulling (what's left -- hair today, gone tomorrow😉) of my hair out. Then a friend I met through our shared liking of Morris Minors popped round for a cuppa. After chatting about various things over a couple of cups of tea I mentioned my problem just as he was leaving. It turns out he had the same problem with the Minor he is rebuilding. He tried various things and was also left pulling his hair out, until that is he mentioned it to other MMOC members........ Also, like me, he has replaced all his dashboard lights with LED bulbs for better illumination. The key one being the ignition warning light. Like me his was staying on after being swapped over. Like me he didn't consider this in itself to be the cause of the problem. It turns out that there is a little diode in LED bulbs, so that when they are placed in the ignition circuit it draws power to the bulb, which then fails to go out upon start up and also stops the alternator from charging the battery...... I'm glad he came round today now, I'd never have thought of that on my own...... With the ignition warning bulb swapped back to standard I now have just over 14 Volts going into the battery with the engine running, just as it should be. I am posting this up for anyone out there, who like me, would never have suspected that updating the ignition warning light to an LED would lead to such an issue..... Knowing this, I now suspect there never was an issue with my first alternator, so I will keep it as a spare. There probably wasn't a problem with the original battery either........ C'est la vie...... Best wishes, Mike. NB: Please note that this effects the ignition circuit only, you are perfectly okay to upgrade the rest of your dashboard illumination to LEDs, though I did note that it made the headlamp warning light appear to come on when only dipped beam was selected, so I have reverted to a standard bulb for this one too.

Well, I now have a new (larger) battery on the car from Euro Car Parts, so we'll see if that solves the problem. Despite being larger it still fitted very well into the area allotted, without any need to 'extend' the clamp arms, so a result there.🙂 As an aside, the receipt was a A4 sized printout, so hopefully won't fade, although these days I keep all my receipts in a plastic wallet in a drawer out of the light, so find even old till receipts can fare better than described above, though I have seen them turn black in the past. Best wishes, Mike.

This is where I was coming from, as I am currently recharging it for the third time in as many months. Euro Car Parts seems a good option then, as I have one local to me. I always do, it'll go in Hetty's (ever expanding) history file. Needless to say the one for the alternator is already in there. It is one thing that surprises me though, how many people still don't bother to keep receipts for parts bought and work done, even these days, when you'd have thought it would be common knowledge that it underlines that a classic has been looked after and maintained. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi Hetty's battery has become a cause for concern over the last few months. Partly because I have a new alternator on her, which appears to be functioning okay but also because I believe she may have stood for some time (a year?) prior to my acquiring her. Throw into the mix that its actual age is an unknown and I find myself in a position where my preference is to replace it with a new battery, therefore starting from a known position regarding age and (hopefully) condition. If the new battery then proves to be a problem I am also then in the stronger position of having a receipt from a more local (than Wales anyway! 😉) motor factor, where I can return and exchange it if necessary. So my question is what battery would people on here recommend? I have measured the battery tray area and find the maximum size that will fit is 10 1/2" x 6 1/2". The current specification on the existing one is noted as: 12V 45Ah 425A with a model designation of '063'. There are some letters before the '063' but they look like they relate to the manufacturer and I have seen the '063' designation used before on other batteries (from Halfords for example). I have additional ancillaries (like a radio), so my main requirements would be good output and longevity. Many thanks, Mike.

Hi, I've just got one of these for Hetty (I have one for the Morris's too). It rotates and is really bright, less so in daylight but still noticeable. Plus it saves any rewiring / installing extra switches, as it plugs into a 12 volt outlet, which in itself is a very useful thing to have fitted. It clamps itself to the bodywork via two magnetic feet underneath, these are encased in soft rubber to protect your paintwork, though in my case it's clamped (via the vinyl) to the metal bars in my Webasto sunroof. Anyway, I thought I'd post it up on here in case anyone's interested. Links below. Best wishes, Mike. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401914780133 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403216576445?hash=item5de194afbd:g:8a0AAOSwnL1gQ27x

That's what mine has, I'll look for some replacements. Best wishes, Mike.

I didn't see any on the site, or do you mean from the likes of Halfords? My only concern with a 'length of blade' would be the lack of end stops to prevent it sliding back out as it sweeps across the screen. Best wishes, Mike.

Methinks this could veer off again at any moment! 😄 As an aside, something that I touched on when typing the initial post in this saga, I am very glad that I did purchase those new wipers. The ones on Hetty looked okay but were scraping rather than sweeping across the screen. The replacements are much more supple, so safety wise it was a good job done. I still haven't thrown the old ones out though, the stainless frames are in such good nick it seems an awful waste. If I had seen rubber blades for them on Rimmers site I'd have just bought those. C'est la vie. I suppose I'll bin them once I'm sick of looking at them on the kitchen side......................... Best wishes, Mike.

😄 It did veer a bit 'off topic' didn't it. 😄 For those looking for where it went follow / click on the link in the above post by KevinR. Best wishes, Mike.

Interesting stuff. Don't worry I won't be buying one. Best wishes, Mike.

I didn't think I'd seen any fitted to engines I've looked at. If the engine needed it and was problematic without this, then it did cross my mind that surely Triumph would have fitted it (or something similar) in the first place. Any other opinions on this kit? Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I was just buying some windscreen wipers when I noticed this kit. What do people think of it / has anyone fitted it? https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID007533 Best wishes, Mike.

I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with Colin, how far are you from having one of your Heralds back on the road? Best wishes, Mike.

I am now of the opinion that it's a case of whatever works for you. So long as the pullies line up and the belt can be adjusted as required, then that's all that matters. Best wishes, Mike.

Todays (Sunday) drive out was much better. She pulled and climbed well and is no longer over revving when standing (at junctions etc.) in neutral, so I shall leave it at that for now. 🙂 Still doesn't like much choke, she's now back to as she was with the Solex fitted in that respect, pull it out when starting from cold, move her off the driveway and shortly thereafter push it back in (off). To summarize the combination I've ended up with is: Side Draft Carb Adapter (originally for a stromberg carb) mated to SU HS4 carb with a 'standard' 1275 needle (needle code DZ). Then a SU air filter elbow, inverted and fitted with a Morris Marina Air Filter. To do this I employed a craft knife to adapt gaskets where neccessary, plus some hardboard and a 2mm rubber sheet, to make a hardboard 'reducer', to make the hole in the base of the air filter smaller and the 2mm rubber sheet to make a gasket to seal it. I also had a couple of hole saws handy (like you use for cutting holes for bath taps etc except larger -- readily available at the likes of B & Q) for making the reducer and for using as a size template for the rubber gasket (craft knife deployed to cut the rubber round them). NB: I spayed the hardboard black after, so it isn't that noticeable. The remainder of the 2mm rubber sheet was riveted to the inner wing under the bonnet, to act as a splash / mud guard, replacing the section of metal I had to remove to allow clearance for the air filter. Best wishes, Mike.

Well, the drive out went okay. Sort of. I found she was over revving and wondered why, until I remembered the little screw that adjusts the 'rest' position of the choke lever on the side of the carb. You'd be surprised how many people forget this little screw. Me included on this occasion of course. It should have a few thou clearance, as in not be touching / activating the lever until the choke is pulled out, this one, for some reason, had been screwed half way out in its former set up (it was previously fitted to someone elses Mini) and consequently it was as if the choke was permanently engaged. Once home again I corrected this, to find the engine wasn't at all happy. After much tinkering and fiddling with the adjustment screw settings I came to the conclusion that, with a standard style filter attached, it didn't like the rich 1098 needle. I also felt that a standard 1098 needle would make it run even weaker, so opted to refit the standard 1275 needle. So far, with the adjustment screws now tweeked, it seems much happier. A good run will tell but that will have to wait until Sunday, as I'm off the NEC classic motor show tomorrow. I suspect there may be more 'tinkering and fiddling' ahead, however I am happy enough with the SU to have now removed the part of the bonnets inner wing that was fouling the standard style air filter whenever I closed the bonnet. Best wishes, Mike.