jagnut66

Hi, I have been sitting on a spare one of these for a while, I have mentioned it before but before it goes in the bin I thought I'd offer it up once more. It's free to whoever wants it. I have an envelope with a stamp on it, so all I need is the address and postcode of anyone interested. Its cover is worn but otherwise internally is in good condition. And it's free!! 😃 Sample images below. Best wishes, Mike.

A few years back there was an article, which ran to at least three pages with pictures, in Practical Classic about a chap in Scotland who used a Rover P4 to travel all over (I beleive he was some sort of rep), he did a deal with his company, so he could run a classic P4 instead of a boring modern. Mind you, first he had to prove it would be reliable enough for work use (I suspect the plugs were one of the items he renewed). Once he'd done that he spent the allowance for a company car on his Rover each year. Fair play to him. I've always liked the idea of owning a Rover P4, one day maybe. Best wishes, Mike.

Based on these comments and the fact that mine still functions (so far....... hastily touching wood 😉) I've bought the refurb kit......... Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I have had cause to replace the spark plugs in my Herald, which, of course, meant I had to check the gaps on the new plugs I installed, plus the spare set I like to carry. I repeated this for the spare sets for my Minors, which I ordered at the same time, incidently the plugs and gaps are the same for both cars, all of which set me thinking....... I have done this for years now, following what the manuals advise for different cars, without ever questioning why and simply accepting that it was the correct procedure. But what determines the gaps for different cars, does 0.001" really make any difference and who determined what the gapping should be and how to calculate it in the first place? This is a question brought about by curiousity, by the way, before anyone starts reaching for the Uzi 9mm's ammunition mags.........😄 Best wishes, Mike.

Hi Dan, She dates to 1970. Best wishes, Mike.

Well if you decide to go for a later version Colin, I would be interested in the scripted version, so no need to advertise, just let me know. Best wishes, Mike.

I've grown rather fond of my 1200 engine, so the 1300 was a bargain just in case the big or little ends decide to go on me. Of course, if I have cause to fit the 1300 I may not want to go back............. Though I may also find in standard form the 1300 isn't that much sprightlier.......... Anyway I'm in the process of collecting the bits to fit a Triumph overdrive box with the column stalk. I saw one fitted to a 1200 at our show and, since mine managed 80 on the way there, I feel it would be a nice option to reduce the RPM and therefore (hopefully) some of the stress on the engine (from my driving style 😉). To finish that off I saw the word 'Overdrive', in a scripted style, on the back of the earlier Vitesses with this fitted, this would match up with the lettering of the word Herald on my bootlid a treat......... Anyway that's for another topic, once I have collected all the bits I need. Best wishes, Mike.

Noted, though I will confess that I am not the lightest of feet on the accelerator pedal and she will be used on motorways, although not any more often than I have to, for a long journey to see friends, collect spare engines 😉 etc. So her lead memory may fade quicker than other Heralds....... Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks for your replies. Inlet manifold and SU carb I have. So, to summerise, I need a 13/60 exhaust system and that side pipe from the back of the water pump manifold. The slave cylinder is a maybe, though I would imagine that is readily available from the likes of Rimmers. I have a new electronic distributor from Accuspark (25D4). Best wishes, Mike.

So one of these kits will be required then? https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjR-8T27uzyAhWO0-0KHeERDr0YABAHGgJkZw&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESQOD2UWSaT9inzmCv__NXU00tJkqJJACUJzmyLkQGVZr7qjRLKfsPAbkY5AIOq_6X0Kr7afmGV_EEjrkQHVdy_js&sig=AOD64_0JhHq9OWouWZiV_arOQI7BaE17cQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjP17z27uzyAhWQilwKHY9sB5sQ9aACegQIARBE&adurl= Best wishes, Mike.

I have recently acquired a Triumph Spitfire 1300 engine as a 'spare' should the 1200 fail at any time (it was advertised as 'for a Dolomite / Herald / Spitfire'). The 1300 was being offered at to good a price to ignore and seems to be in good 'free' condition. Apparently from an abandoned project. Images below, I have a side entry inlet manifold for it as well, not pictured. On inquiring with Canley Classics about their unleaded heads, they confirmed where the engine originated from, via its engine number. Size-wise it look like it would be a straight swap but before I spend money on an exchange unleaded head for it, can people on here confirm whether this is the case. Or are there a whole host of modifications that would be needed?............. (Excepting the exhaust of course, the front pipe fits at a different angle to the 1200s and, if the engine will fit, I might as well get the rest whilst I'm at it) For example I was hoping, in the event of the 1200s failure, that it fit straight on the existing gearbox, it came with flywheel and clutch attached. Don't get me wrong, as long as the 1200 continues to function it can remain in place, a spare engine simply gets it back on the road quicker and the 1200 could then be rebuilt at my leasure. Many thanks, as always, for your input. Best wishes, Mike.

It was simply a question, hence the question mark. But thankyou for the answer, as that satisfied my curiousity anyway. As you probably know, back in the day allot of manufacturers looked to save money wherever they could, hence the way the question was worded, thinking that a mechanical pump would be a cheaper option than an electrical one. Your remarks on reliability and fuel delivery answer the other question I raised (pros and cons). That has crossed my mind and is a 'plus' for the mechanical pump. If there are no arguments 'for' the electric pump then I will leave it 'as is'. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I am in the process of renewing the SU fuel pump (AUA66) on my Morris Minor, so that it is ethanol proof (or should be.....). That said I have bought a kit to refurbishing the old one. It still works but will be too old to have an ethanol resistant diaphragm inside. The kit is comprehensive, so I can renew anything else I feel needs it. I was then going to keep it as a 'good known spare'. However, as I am going to replace the fuel line from the tank anyway with a Kunifer / ethanol proof hose one, I am now thinking that it would be a good opportunity to upgrade the Herald, which has the standard mechanical pump at present. So what do others think, what are the pros and cons? Mechanical vs Electrical? I assume the fitment of a mechanical pump was a cost cutting exercise originally? Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks Jeff. It's looking like it's a bit of a grey area. Mine seems to have been given the flat version though. Generally speaking it looks like peaked = early, flat = late. But with a bit of 'mix n match' going on to use up surplus stock................ Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks Colin.

So who is correct. Or are both correct, there being no definative answer? Best wishes, Mike.

So my parents car (very early 1200) likely had the arched lenses but they would require a different base unit. Interesting. However, although I have seen a few lenses, I have yet to see any complete versions of the early 'arched' units for sale. ie: With the base. The below are the wrong way round but the picture does allow you to see the 'handing' on the flat lenses that I was on about. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, Unfortunately I recently managed to break one of my sidelight lenses. I sourced a good secondhand replacement but when it arrived I found it was arched, mine are fairly flat. I've since acquired a couple more, one arched the other flat, I have tried both on Hetty and can't make up my mind which give out better light / are more noticeable. I do like the arched ones but are they really Herald or Vitesse items (they were sold as being for a Herald), or are both types correct? For now the flat one is fitted, however I've noticed that, unlike the arched ones, the flatter ones are 'handed' and I seem to have ended up with two drivers side ones........... I guess I will have to start looking again................ Best wishes, Mike.

Let it 'mature' in the engine first until it's good 'n' black.........😉

As an aside, I've no desire to drill out my dash area to fit gauges, much prefer to use the stainless console available. It also keeps the dash original looking. Though saying that, I have now ordered a nice Burr Elm replacement for my 'rising' veneer. There were already speaker holes in the footwell panels, so I got something similar to the old fashioned speaker cloth and gave them a retro look. Best wishes, Mike.

I buy the brown 'creosote' from B & Q and mix in my old engine oil, which I save. Nothing wants to eat my wooden sheds after that................ Much prefer Burger King. Now are there any animal rights protesters about?..............😉😄 Best wishes, Mike.

Hi Colin, Here you go: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GTR108 I also recommend you change these: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GTS104 https://rimmerbros.com/ItemRating--i-GTG103 I had my radiator and heater matrix recored, as they had been fed plain water up to the point I flushed it all out and they were both in a right state, the heater matrix was completely blocked up. If yours are too I recommend you source a company near you and do the same, preventative maintenance and far cheaper than a cooked engine. Best wishes, Mike.

Yes, I've used Pirtek before. Best wishes, Mike.

Interesting, looks like a different veneer option too. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I have just installed and oil cooler in my Herald, whilst a few might think this unnecessary I like to fit them these days to my cars, in an attempt at making them 'motorway-proof'. This is ever since I cooked the oil in a Minor's (non standard 1275) engine on the motorway a few years back and bu*****d the engine. When I replaced the engine I fitted one and didn't have a problem (with that particular issue) thereafter. To do this on Hetty I made a plate and fitted it in front of the rad using the horn mounting brackets. I then bolted the horns to the plate, underneath. Anyway, I believe the kit was intended for a Spitfire, which may explain why I found the hoses to be too short for my application, so I bought some longer MG Midget hoses and these gave me the flexibility I required. As a result of this and some other work I've done to Hetty I have a few spares, which can go FREE to anyone willing to collect them from me in Mansfield, Notts. These are the brand new and unused Spitfire oil cooler hoses, a NOS Spitfire locking petrol cap with keys (found whilst I was trying to find a suitable locking chrome cap for Hetty - unfortunately, whilst very nice aesthetically, it won't fit a Herald) and some unused new rubber water hoses for a Herald (I've since fitted silicone ones bought from the club). All pictured below. I'll also advertise the in the 'for sale' (although they're free) section, if no-one spotting them here wants them. Best wishes, Mike.