jagnut66

I've hit a snag in that I can't seem to separate the old propshaft from the gearbox, even with all the nuts and bolts removed. Before I result to 'butchery', is there a method of achieving this? As above, at present all the nuts, bolts, starter motor, clutch slave etc. are undone and / or removed. I've tried jacking the box up slightly but the darn thing just goes with it. It's not rusted in position, as I have managed to partially shift it. But only so far....... Right now it's back in it's original position (on the end of the gearbox), save that the gearbox support has now been taken out (made no difference 😒). There must be a way other than cutting it in half.............. As always thanks for any advice. Best wishes, Mike.

So just a smear of grease then really? Best wishes, Mike.

That's a good idea, I wonder if I have a grease nipple that will fit in its place.... If not I'll just pump a little grease in there before I fit it anyway, one squirt should be enough with something this small. Thanks for the info. Best wishes, Mike.

The Angle Drive has just arrived, it screws onto the gearbox and the OD speedo cable cleanly, plus it comes with a copper washer for the gearbox side of things. So, good to go. However, there is a slot screw on top (see picture below), which is loosely screwed in at present, is this for some sort of adjustment or should it just be screwed up tight? Best wishes, Mike.

Yes Pete, on the left is correct. I believe it was mentioned but thanks for clarifying which side the washer goes, namely on the side that screws onto the gearbox / OD unit. From the picture, it appears the one I've bought off eBay comes with a washer suppled. Less expense / time spent sourcing a suitable one, always a plus! 😃👍 As the consensus of opinion leans towards a J type identification, I will go with this. Thanks and best wishes, Mike.

As a little update: I tested the Overdrive solenoid and it clicked in and out a couple of times, it sounds quite healthy (touching wood at this point!), plus the gearbox now has a new inhibitor switch. Though the original cleaned up well and could be okay, what setting on a meter should I use to test the old switch and what reading should I expect to see if it's still healthy? I have also renewed the little earth wire for the solenoid, as the sheathing was splitting badly, so badly that it snapped when I straightened it out. Whilst I was a it I made a threaded bar with my tap & die set to act as a pivot for the clutch release bearing's arm. The original wasn't with the gearbox, so I can only assume it was needed by another customer, prior to my purchasing the O/D box itself from him. I am just awaiting the Angle Drive for the speedo cable to arrive, then I can think about getting on with this. One question I do have though, relating to the power feed to the O/D solenoid, I want to fit an inline fuse when I wire this up, what rating of fuse would be suitable for this? Thanks and best wishes, Mike.

No pun intended, eh Colin......😉 Interesting. Judging by the condition of the Bakelite they are all quite old. I guess there must have been variations. Or they just used whatever was in the BMC / BL parts bin on that day....... 😉 Best wishes, Mike.

I bought one of the replacement knobs from Chic Doig and it arrived today. I am pleased to say that the lens, label and clip came out easily. However, before I fit them into the knob on my Herald, there was one small detail that needed to be 'restored'. On the original choke labels there is a black dot in the centre, this is missing from labels on replacement knobs. Silly, I dare say. But I wanted it to look like the one I needed to replace. Time to dust off my old modelling brushes and paints. The pictures below probably explain better what I'm on about. Best wishes, Mike.

I've used JDO a few times for recalibrating Morris speedos, notably when I fitted a 1275 MG Midget engine into a former two door Minor of mine. Once it's all in place and working I'll take it for a spin and compare the speedo readings at 30, 50 and 70 to the app on my phone, which will tell me what I'm really doing...... Thanks for all your help and advice, so far, there will doubtless be more questions from me to come...... 😉 Best wishes, Mike.

Please bear with me, I haven't dealt with overdrive gearboxes before in terms of fitting them to a car that didn't originally have one, so some questions may seem 'obvious' to others but not to me. There was no angle drive supplied with the gearbox, perhaps this was just as well, as a second hand one may be passed its best by now. I didn't ask because I assumed the cable would screw straight onto the gearbox connection, from what has been said above I take it this is not the case and I will need to fit an 'Angle Drive'. Does anyone recommend a particular Angle Drive, or shall I just go for one of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392426804649?hash=item5b5e75d5a9:g:~hIAAOSwadNdfX1i Looking at the images for the above, they appear to show the washer you mention, it appears to be used on the side that screws into the gearbox, is this correct? I also see on Rimmer's site mention of a speedo drive pinion, is this what you think I may need to change? https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-506119 To confirm, the gearbox will be attached to my existing 1200 engine. Thanks and best wishes, Mike.

I had a gearstick adapted for me, to retain a more 'standard' look inside the car, the overdrive will be operated by a (Vitesse?) column stalk. Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks for the confirmation Josef. Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks to both of you for this valuable information. I think I will follow Pete's instructions and give the solenoid a service whilst it's off the car. And Colin's advice about replacing the inhibitor switch, I've already found one on eBay, I take it this is the right one? https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwijrN-9hKn4AhWj6O0KHYqpCrcYABAMGgJkZw&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESbeD2JjsUgpYJxO8gVJe1i1Tapine4OxoiVBhk8R8c2VtGSSlaDaEzlY2edeYvJGUHNrP_NTfNuI1-CWWfffYVoRyjf24ID-2R039fI6XtBPvgf7KXDt6mJYobvTcGJt0eappRGNaEY4-9KIH9SY&sig=AOD64_1SAnfGqj3greYqX2uZJdwwr-chsg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjj8Nm9hKn4AhVJUMAKHdaeDg4Q9aACKAB6BAgBEE8&adurl= I will also need to replace the speedo cable but which one do I use? One from a Vitesse (as below)? https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwih_PzXh6n4AhWDgFAGHYbnCVwYABANGgJkZw&ae=2&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESbeD2uuf-5KuuLHl8PpIwuvVetBsUdRUqFFJvipol9F2oCwmbG5QpWJfqhlaSzXz_-8HB4u0eZZQzn3rp6QLoSRE0tnSSlJ3xQD4WsR5ftm1n9QnYtkK08l9ppZeyFl3avbRxIWRQbHMkHFaycuQ&sig=AOD64_2nEJletVpR4QwNE3-atIoD8_4TfQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjEi_bXh6n4AhWPglwKHbliC5MQ9aACKAB6BAgBEEI&adurl= Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks for this Colin. I'm guessing you mean the 'lid' I've circled in my first picture below. If it's this way up, nothing's going to spring out when I remove it, is it? I assume this will then need a gasket replacing when I put it back on. That makes sense. Though I am now left wondering what the electrical spade connections circled in my second picture, located on the top of the box are for, I take it they are nothing to do with the overdrive unit? Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks Pete, I take it I also need these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265004020532?epid=25043536613&hash=item3db3787334:g:bX4AAOSwSJlf9fBR Best wishes, Mike.

Apart from giving it a clean up and replacing the release bearing, no. I was sold it as a working gearbox, I am hoping it is such. I am not skilled enough to start stripping down an overdrive gearbox, so it would have to be a professional job and that's a bill I could do without at present. It either works or the existing four speed would go back in for now. Two other questions I do have: Firstly, whilst moving the box into the garage I have noticed the little short back wire, does it connect as I have placed it in the first picture below? (Don't worry about it's condition, I intend to make up a new one.) Secondly, I take it the strap in the second picture is a severed earth strap to the chassis? If so I shall source a replacement. Once again, many thanks, Mike. NB: The gearbox isn't stored upended like this, it was just positioned like this for the purpose of taking these pictures.

Firstly, to say thanks to everyone for the (ongoing) advice. 😃👍 I found this on eBay, it looks the same as the one in your picture but is listed for the Spitfire, do you know if it is the suitable for the Herald tunnel? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255538604088?hash=item3b7f49a838:g:GoUAAOSwVyligl~x I've ordered one of these from James Paddock: http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/overdrive-mounting-plate-d-type-2 But found this cheaper on eBay: https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjai6qnm6j4AhUJsu0KHUeoAiAYABAJGgJkZw&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESbeD2eNCZ58P-2XC6A839VPa4ug6NaY-_a4GaA0cPewNKM5xcxI-xT01UNAakxRrGPklJmMAP80lDlBTDWDFHnvj2cnVUoLfMQbjrDQkOY1IHf3Fm50Wn7PkERqlFPua2bV4Agh7jkI8RscqrKys&sig=AOD64_1VSosLBaqTQuUMRqZPcnsOFXKA4A&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwj_hKWnm6j4AhVSeMAKHYpsCIYQ9aACKAB6BQgBEJ0B&adurl= Best wishes, Mike.

It's just occurred to me, as I finally gear up (no pun intended😉) to fit this, will it fit straight onto my existing Herald 1200 gearbox crossmember or do I need to make some alterations / adjustments there for it to sit comfortably? Or should I purchase a Spitfire crossmember and fit that with new bushes? I know, I should have thought about this earlier.......🙄 Best wishes, Mike.

Well the new rubbers are on but the removal of the old ones from the front valence revealed that it's in a bit of a sad state. It's covered up again for now but I will need to replace this in due course. Fortunately I believe it bolts on, so not a major job, unless someone's about to inform me otherwise.......... So if anyone out there reading this has a spare front valence, in reasonable condition with decent channels for the fitment of the white rubbers, for a Herald 1200 / 1250, I would be very interested. Thanks and best wishes, Mike.

As an aside, another tool I'm finding useful in the fitment of these bumpers is a rubber mallet. Best wishes, Mike.

I managed to 'extract' the plastic lens and choke label from my original knob, it involved at bit of 'butchery' but as I didn't need it anymore and they are still available for sale (see above post by Colin) I didn't feel too guilty. I retouched any damaged to the label with some modelling paint I had to hand and, having allowed it to dry for 24 hours, I stuck it in place in the new knob. Not brilliant but it will do for now. I will look out for one of the knobs with the tabs that you mention above. Best wishes, Mike.

Taking inspiration from the fact you succeeded, plus the fact that the nut had reappeared, on the passenger side mat, I gave the matter further thought. Deciding that I didn't want to remove the speedo again, so soon after reinstalling it, I looked at it from the passenger side. I reached in behind but to one side of my radio, keeping my arm against the bulkhead I managed to get it up behind the ashtray and feeling with just my fingers first time round I found the end of the screw. Having been able to grip the screws thread the first time, I then went back in the same way with the nut and washer and managed to wind it back onto the thread, then hold it in place, whilst I screwed it up tight with the screwdriver in my other hand. Not totally easy but allot simpler than I expected and I (surprisingly) found access to it straight away, which I didn't going at it through the speedo hole a couple of times the other day. I've also found a nut that fits the machine screw by the side of the glovebox, so that's done, for now. Best wishes, Mike.

Love that dark grey(?) Herald of yours, by the way. It looks great, I must get mine repainted. Best wishes, Mike.

That does seem like a good idea, threaded bar, going through the captive nut, with a nut / washer either side to hold it in place, push it back through the metal tube and into place and then spin a wing nut and washer on, on the inside by the petrol tank. Done tight enough to hold it in place but not so tight as you can't break the lock and spin it back off again. Plus my other favourite ingredient..... lashings of copper grease!.....😃 I shall give this serious consideration. Yes, I've even centralised the captive nut, hit the retaining case with the chisel like side of a large cross pein hammer, just hard enough to fix the nut in place, added plenty of copper grease, threaded the bolt through it successfully off the car (to make sure the thread itself was okay) but when it's in place on the car will the thread bite, will it hell!! Like you I spent (wasted?) loads of time trying to get the bolt in......... What's the emoji for frustration / tearing (what's left of) my hair out? LOL Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I had a look for these but couldn't find one, do you have a link? Many thanks, Mike.