cliff.b
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Posts posted by cliff.b
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46 minutes ago, Wagger said:
If the key has sheared, or is missing, the shaft can rotate within the hub, in extreme cases you will lose drive. If you have a hub puller, remove the hub and check it all.
Unfortunately, I don't have a puller but I am planning to investigate further this weekend and as it has been loose, to see if it will come off without one.
If it won't shift then I am considering making frequent inspections and to try again if any play returns.
As a matter of interest, are generic pullers not up to the job? I could probably borrow one of those.
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I haven't watched a lot of this programme but got the impression that the main point is to make a profit from the car and so consequently, spend as little as possible on it.
Much the same as dubious secondhand car dealers have been doing ever since there has been cars.
Caveat emptor 🤔
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20 minutes ago, Stratton Jimmer said:
When I was serving in the RAF we were never allowed to re-use a nyloc nut. They always had to be replaced with new and I adhere to this practice today.
I was wondering about that myself 🤔
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21 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
Yes def sound like the keyway has failed or ....missing
you keep having to tighten the nut as the shaft has spun inside the hub flange you take up that wear by retightening
think that rings the bell ???
let us know what you find
ref canley Rear Axle : Canley Classics just calls it half shaft nut no mention of long or short
if the threads appear beyond the lock ring then its fine if they dont it needs a half nut
but with a good fittiing keyway there should be no shuffle going on and any 5/8 unf nut will work ok
looking at the pic you have a good deal of thread showing beyond the nut another indication of there a problem here
Pete
Ok, many thanks 👍
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2 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
i would before you do anything remove the nut and pull the hub off as its obviously loose giving float it should avoid the normal hassle and just pop off
is the keyway fitted , if its failed drive torque will spin the shaft in the hub even when its nut is tight
just doing it up wont cure the base problem
sorry its get it off and look see whats really going on
if the shaft has turned inside the hub flange i fear the flange is scrapped now the shaft might survive being the harder of the two parts
so look first retighten last
Pete
Sounds like I will need to take another look then 🙄.
Just to clarify, I didn't notice any end float but if I turned the brake drum there was a bit of movement before the drive shaft moved. Then repeated with the drum off, turning the hub.
Nipping the nut up a little stopped this but then subsequently, I could tighten quite a lot more.
Is this still consistent with what you have explained?
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10 minutes ago, NonMember said:
Unless you overtighten to the point of stripping threads, it's fine. The bearing is not pre-loaded on a swing-axle as there's nothing to locate the housing (or anything else much) on the shaft.
Thanks. It is well tight now so if it loosens again it will definitely require further investigation. Passenger side was fine.
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Hmmm, it was a little play between the hub and the drive shaft that alerted me to this which suggests to me that the hub had started to come loose, perhaps.
I have tightened again and will keep a close eye on it. I presume that unlike front wheel bearings, overtightening isn't likely to cause any problems?
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Just adjusting my handbrake and noticed that there was play between the drum and the drive shaft which I have found is due to the nut on the end of the shaft being loose.
This is worrying as it was also loose when I bought the car and I tightened it
In the manual it says "self locking nut" so just wondering, does this look like the correct but and also, can anyone confirm the torque for it please?
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13 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:
Occasionally, my car and I become transparent.
Pedestrians as well as drivers can be the problem then.
On those “transparent” days, they can come up to the kerb, either not look or even do the full “green cross” and then step off, looking the other way or into their phone or blankly in my direction.
The ultimate was last year when a young woman slowly sauntered off the pavement into my path whilst on her phone.Looking the other way the whole time, she was unaware of my presence and fact that I had stopped very quickly to avoid hitting her.
Now a bit wary, I decided to wait until she approached other kerb before moving off.
Just as well.She had just passed the bonnet when she did a sudden about-turn,to retrace her steps, now at a faster pace and engaged in a very animated phone conversation and hurried away - still completely oblivious of me sitting in my stationary, transparent car…
I find the most effective and satisfying response to an errant pedestrian is a blast from my air horns. Purely in the interests of their own safety, of course 🤭
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1 hour ago, Paul Amey said:
When fitting carb. heat shields, where does one put them? Is it between the inlet manifold and the carb or is between the carb. and the air filter box?
Between the manifold and the carbs
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2 hours ago, Chris A said:
Shortages are more likely to be caused by a sudden and massive increase in demand, as has happened before.
People who normally drive around with half a tank of petrol filling up causing a temporary shortage at the petrol stations.
Here heating fuel delivery companies are dealing with big increases in demand as people stock up even if they wouldn't normally do so at this time of the year. One company taking orders wasn't able to say what the price would be. Another who usually delivers within 48 hours was quoting 7 days.
Yes, you are quite right. I will resist the urge to fill the bath with premium unleaded 🤔
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Now THAT I don't know for certain yet; but they were chatting on local radio (Radio Ulster yesterday morning) that some kind of rationing is going to be necessary to ensure that those who need fuel to get about - and here the caller was talking about the disabled and their Motability cars, not emergency workers or the like - can continue to get it; plus home heating oil was discussed to keep the vulnerable warm. Nothing on the Net anywhere to confirm, bar a mention in the Brussels Times dated 8th March:
I've no idea how accurate that is, or how truthful - it's the only article that I've been able to find.
Found this article saying deliveries of heating oil and commercial deliveries of diesel are being restricted by suppliers in the ROI
https://www.buzz.ie/news/irish-news/ration-home-heating-oil-diesel-26411540
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30 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
They're talking about rationing already, not only road fuel but home heating oil; not because stocks are low but to ensure everybody gets some of what's available. I suspect £20-worth will go further with me - no pun intended - than with some of the huge 4x4s I see doing the school runs. Maybe they'll bring back 3 star...
Is there any basis for this talk of rationing, or just one of those rumours that spread like wildfire?
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1 hour ago, PeteH said:
Cliff, Topped off swmbos car this morning, quarter tank 26quid!!. The big one will be the Motorhome. I expect that will be pump cut off and restart a full fill used to be just under the ton mark. Sign of things to come. Thanks Mr Putin!.
Pete
Indeed. £42 to fill the Spitfire and the tank is tiny. I did brim it though, on the assumption that it will cost even more next time I fill it.
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At last I have had a chance to get out again and investigate further.
Firstly, I had noticed that where the car was when I topped up the oil was sloping more than I had realised, so I found somewhere flatter to check again and found it still wasn't full. It took another couple of "glugs" out the can to remedy this and then out for a drive.
After a number of high speed braking tests I have found that the light still comes on briefly, but only if if I do a severe emergency stop, hard enough to make the front tyres squeal, from 60MPH.
If I brake just as hard but leave the clutch engaged then the oil light doesn't come on at all.
I am therefore concluding that it is not an electrical fault but was probably a combination of slightly low oil level and the reduced scavenging at tickover speed during a degree of oil "slosh".
I'm not unduly worried as I never intend to brake that hard during normal driving but even so, the oil light was only on for maybe a second at tickover revs and no load.
If I do have to brake that hard though I will try and remember to not push the clutch until just before stopping.
As the slight extra oil top-up did improve matters I still need to check the dipstick out, which I will do at next oil change.
Anyway , apart from all that, it's been a lovely day to take the car out for a bit of testing. That is until I had to fill the tank 😱
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17 hours ago, Joanna K said:
Well done Cliff, it looks great!
Thanks. It was a struggle but worth it in the end
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As promised, I am posting details of another classic car meet at the Stibington Diner near Peterborough. Any vehicle over 25 years old can attend.
From 10AM on Sunday 13th March.
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10 minutes ago, PeteH said:
On some "Marinised" Engines the sump is divided with baffles, with smallish holes, to mittigate this effect. During pitching and rolling. Road tankers are Baffled to stop Surge. Which has caused accidents when not fitted.
Pete
Some years ago I had a Ford Cougar with a transverse V6 engine and was told that during production they added a sump baffle after cases of oil starvation during fast cornering.
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4 minutes ago, Graham C said:
Oil level will have an affect. It is sometime since I drove the car regularly. However whenever I brake hard I always watch the pressure gauge dip and return. As to tickover revs I follow the book and aim for 700/800 rpm. Which from memory was on the label underneath the bonnet. Always thought 1000rpm plus was to high.
As to losing oil pressure always took care with driving on when pressure built back up again, just be aware and top the oil. When driving regularly always changed the oil/filter twice a year and not always with expensive oil. I will wait for others to say that was the reason for lose of oil pressure.
Graham
Interesting stuff 👍
And yes, 1000 rpm is too high but before I changed my distributor it was the only way I could keep it reasonably stable
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Thinking about this further, I'm guessing that in most cases if someone is forced to brake hard, the last thing they are looking at is their oil light 🤔.
So maybe it can happen but few people notice.
I am visualising Triumphs all over the country now making random emergency stops as owners check their own cars out 🙂
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3 minutes ago, Graham C said:
Sorry coming to this late, I would say this down to the oil moving in the sump when hard breaking, I have owned my Spit 1500(1981) since 1984 and always had this problem. Fitted a pressure gauge via a T joint off the engine where the oil sensor is and that drops in pressure.
You tend not to notice it so much when you have fresh oil in the engine.
That is my experience of owning a Spit 1500 and lose of oil pressure.
Graham
Many thanks for the feedback. Have you noticed if oil level has any effect? Just wondering if the oil age is relevant or just that it's completely full after you have changed it.
And also, considering the recent comments, interested to know what your tickover speed is like lol.
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1 hour ago, johny said:
At least youve got some ideas. Let us know the outcome as its a bit unusual and my money is on it being a real drop in oil pressure...
Will do, although I probably won't be going out again until next weekend. Weather taken a turn for the worse and too busy 😒
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5 minutes ago, NonMember said:
Well, I was quoting from memory and don't have a 1500 manual to hand, but the earlier Spitfire curves begin to advance around 1000RPM (crank). The Vitesse 6 and Herald 1200 do have a more aggressive "busy advancing while still at idle" curve, which strikes me as a bad idea because it'll lead to instability.
That makes sense and anyway, I am now very happy with the way the car is running. I think I will increase the tickover a little though, probably to about 800RPM as that seems reasonable.
Be interesting to see if that has any impact whatsoever on the oil thing. Presume there would be about 1/3 more "sucking" going on 🤔
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27 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Welcome to the wonderfully paranoid world of old cars... temporarily rig up an oil pressure gauge and then you'll understand why they call them worry gauges!
I'd still like to think it's electrical, because that's the cheaper option; has anyone watched the oil warning light while you wiggle the wires about?
Next time I take the car out I'm going to temporarily disconnect the wire to the oil pressure switch, do the braking test and if the light still comes on it must be an electrical issue.
I do have an oil pressure gauge fitted and even when the light came on it still registered about 10lb, but if I rev the engine I can see there is a delay in the pressure rising and then falling so quite possibly not sensitive enough to show a momentary dip.
Loose nut
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
Lol