Quack

Okay I’d rather get a more long term solution so will go proper supplier pete never a reason to apologise for a good recommendation

Best I could find in local store is R7, I’m guessing that won’t be good enough?

Okay great will make the checks today, if not then I’ll head in to town and grab 8mm microbore, 8mm rubber hose and some metal ties

Perfect thankyou I’ll have a look for that!

I’m a bit confused here, what is the pipe running from the tank to the pump made of? And the pipe from the pump to the carb??? When I look up fuel lines it just gives me all rubber fuel hoses as results. Is it just basic copper?

how’s this? I was thinking 5 metres would be enough to cover both lines. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115118389155?chn=ps&var=415190384332&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1uIN4tA36RmOldXBAEVTXYw23&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=415190384332_115118389155&targetid=1647205088800&device=m&mktype=&googleloc=9045628&poi=&campaignid=16787135197&mkgroupid=134875584363&rlsatarget=pla-1647205088800&abcId=9300846&merchantid=114896935&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Lr1dkbsCyq3JDBBa_vbEmFVUf2&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2_OWBhDqARIsAAUNTTF38zoqfMDE2tm1iR_7QLy49peQyIlAE18a9mOVKKsRSmyGQ5MC5ZgaAiXQEALw_wcB

Yeah I’ll have a mosey round the thank first, might just actually be the sender I can hear rattling about

Cheers will give that a try! In terms of forward preparation...if it is down to the lines, i'll be looking to replace them obviously. I'd probably replace all of them, including the line from the tank to the pump. I was looking on rimmer bros but not sure what i'd need https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005227 Would the below kit cover all the fuel lines? Seems like it would but i can't tell. It doesn't seem like it includes the line from the tank to the pump. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RH5026R9

Ah yeah of course, I’ll take the sender off next week. will also try out running some fuel straight from the Jerry can to the fuel pump through a hose and see what happens there. I’m thinking best bet is probably to get all the fuel lines and maybe (if needed), the fuel pump replaced.

Managed to get the tank out with some serious heave ho. Once it was out I was able to get the drain plug out as I could access it better (I jumped on a spanner attached to it!!) abyway I can hear shite rattling around inside of it, but no way to get the actual tank open as far as I can see

currently trying to remove my petrol tank to check for debris. But I can’t for my life get the drain plug out which makes it impossible to remove the tank by just an INCH…so frustrating!!!

that sounds like a good plan @NonMember, how would I go about plumbing it in do you think? IMG_4954.MOV

Saying this, I spray start up fluid in to the carb and this doesn’t make a difference either…should it? I suppose on the electric side it could be the coil overheating however it doesn’t feel hot at all and I’m not sure how else to test this

Yeah that’s what it feels like; that it’s not getting the appropriate resources it needs or something is interfering with the engine getting fuel, some kind of blockage or debris or even the rubber silvers Pete mentioned that I need to look in to.

I’ve Detached the Rev counter. Then I’ve just had it sat idling and I revved up a few times. Each time it comes back down after revving it would get a bit jumpy, eventually on the fourth time revving, it came back down, and then turned off. It seems it can survive about 5-10 minutes of driving before it gets tired and turns off. And won’t turn back on again for some time. as I showed in the first video it will try sometimes succeed to catch for a second or two then instantly cuts out. If I keep trying it eventually stops even catching and won’t turn on again until hours later or the next day

It’s hard for me to tell as my wires go in to a harness on the +, however I can confirm that the distributor lead goes to the - terminal so I’m guessing it is hooked up correctly. Attached video of voltmeter reading anyway just incase IMG_4944.MOV

Just to check Pete, to test the polarity, I’m connecting a negative pin of voltmeter to the negative side of coil, then the positive pin of voltmeter to the engine block is this correct? when I do this I’m getting a negative reading on the voltmeter

That's really interesting about the coil, what a weird situation. I'll be checking that out today, also got the old points ignition unit i can refit to check however i don't have a timing light and as far as im aware i'd have to reset the timing if i change the unit.

Yeah i can imagine, i will check it but it's always been fine up until now so i'd be surprised if it was that, but can't hurt to check.

Oh yeah i will absolutely do those tests as well as everything mentioned here! I just thought since the carb has been troublesome before i should start there but yes actually, it probably is better to start with electrics. I just started it up and it worked 4 times in a row after being sat resting for a few hours actually...which is odd and makes it even more challenging to figure out what the issue is. It seems to happen after driving a bit.

Im under the impression it's not electrical, going to take a look at carb and air intake tomorrow as that's where i had issues before. EDIT: Also i tested for spark, couldn't see one at first...however i'm fairly certain there's one there, as an unfortunate little bit of copper wire jammed in my jump lead handle made a lovely connection to me, sending 12 volts across my chest from the spark plug wire to the ignition barrel! 😂

As you can see in the attached video, it now won't turn on at all today. Started earlier, went for a little drive. Came back and when it was idling it just shut off as it has been doing recently, but this time it wont turn on again. Sometimes it kicks in for a half second then just dies again. Attempted to use some starting fluid in to the air intake but made no difference. Pete i meant the cap terminals. I don't use a points system that's what the IE replaces. The EI is simply just a modern replacement for the points so i don't have to adjust them over time and end up stuck on the side of the road because they wear easier. I was told that IE is generally just a worthy modern upgrade, better for higher RPM and also just maintainability.

It's an accuspark EI. Yeah it was in a previous thread here, was getting a real rough idle and high fuel consumption, making the mixture leaner solved it, but may have just been a workaround which i suspected at the time as it was always fine and then randomly got rough. But saying that the idle has been spot on since, car is less powerful than it was before but a willing sacrifice to save the fuel money. I checked the diaphragm earlier no splits there either

Noticed the dizzy points were a bit claggy, sanded them back. I should also note that i have an electronic ignition by the way incase that makes a difference. Will go for a drive this evening up a hill and put it under a load to see how it gets on. I've had problems with a rough idle and air/fuel mixture before that i only remedied by messing with the mixture, so i wouldn't be surprised if its clogged fuel pump or pipes.