Quack

I've found one after ringing around, HMG Paint in Andover. They need a piece from my car to match though. Any tips on what i can take off? (herald 13/60)

Discovered this the hard way 🤣

I was under the impression that wouldn’t fully drain it but if it does then okay!

I drained my system of coolant, filled it with water to flush, and now the tap has snapped and I can’t rotate it. The rad is just full of water! Don’t know what to do!

So tried Halfords today, they said we don’t do colour match. Tried dulux that says COLOUR MATCH in big letters on the outside, but they wouldn’t do it either! my car is a herald 13/60, so it can only be pine green or Laurel green. I think it’s more likely Laurel. However the Laurel I’m finding in shops does seem to be lighter than my car…

I’ll grab some of those foam stick things, do you think I’ll need primer and rubbing alcohol? Or can I just grab some touch up paint and get to work

Will I need to buff the area with sandpaper? I’ve seen people paint chips and it look awful and obvious

Today I was redoing the vinyl strip on my herald but turns out the paint at the rear is very weak, and the overlapping vinyl tore it off! Completely gutted. What’s the best way to fix all these small chips? I’m considering just completely vinyl wrapping the whole car anyway…

Hahahah yep, can finally keep my window closed and the hand signals at bay!

Voltmeter on way in post, meanwhile the tacho gets its pulse from the coil, the temp gauge seems to be back to normal today at start from cold. I’m going to get some coolant and refill the rad just incase. tacho revs still sitting a bit higher than normal but not as much as yesterday, will have to check again after a drive

Problem solved by ClassiccarLEDs!! Absolutely over the moon. They sent a full package with a suitable relay and powerful LED’s. I’m guessing the original LED’s were just crap, and the relay wasn’t suitable for stronger LED’s as suggest here. the timing of the flash is now exactly right too, so the new relay has solved all problems.

This does sound like the most solid idea to be honest, I may do that myself, one separate harness linking all to battery earth

HI yep dont worry i made sure i have negative earth based bulbs.

That sounds like a good plan, will re-earth both front lamps if needed. I’ve got a new LED kit from classiccarleds on the way as recommended by another owner, will see how they work out then re-earth. now just need to fix the fast flashing which will be the next step

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Will do this asap, thanks

Yeah i was having a look yesterday, managed to find what i thought was the ground. both sides run in to connector and go in to the harness. Clipped the wire and the indicators were still working, so it can't have been. The rear indicators have an obvious ground but the front makes no sense as to where the ground is coming from...maybe its bolted on? But if so why did this wire ever exist. Who knows! I've attached a video i took yesterday IMG_3289.mov

Hi pete, yes since i fitted the alternator (3 months ago or so) it's been making my indicators flash very fast as well. Good to know that it's likely just a misreading though...the tacho must be messing me around, i'll have to take a look at it and let you know where it gets it's impulses from today/tomorrow. It was just strange that it has always been fine up until now. I'm currently based in salisbury, wiltshire. I'll report back on here with pictures & videos of the where the tacho is linked up to, and my alternator wiring too. Cheers

I’d say it definitely sounds like it’s straining more but I could of course be biased by what I’ve seen on the rpm counter. The fact that the arm is stable though tells me it’s not the counter, it sits very still at 1400 every time I started the engine today, there’s no jumping about.

The original LED's that were in there had a 12v LED flasher, I put the lucas back in when i tried to refit bulbs today.

Ignore the temp gauge stuff for now, i'll check it out tomorrow. It's the revs im concerned about. And what i mean is what im saying, i always idled at 1000rpm, now it's started idling higher, and when i drive it's also 400ish higher than it normally would be at each speed i go. This changed in the course of a day...surely that can't be normal? And as i mentioned at the start, the engine struggles more than it normally does to turn on, sometimes clicks out and need trying again, whereas before it would always start on the first turn, even if it took a while. Again im not sure if this is related but still thought i should mention.

Here's the whole story. My triumph herald 13/60's indicators have always been rather dull. They are all cheap LED's, so i wanted to replace them. First off, i noticed when i upgraded to an alternator, my indicators started flashing very rapidly. The dash light too, and sometimes 'off beat'. I ignored it though, as they still worked. Now, i tried to fit a brand new better LED last week. I only attempted to fit one before trying it, not sure if this effected it, but anyhow, none of the indicators worked after fitting this one. Old LED back in, boom, works again. Today i tried putting back in the old Lucas flasher, and used 4 new 21W bulbs. And again, nothing! No dash light, no indicator lights. I did find that if i ground my test light, and touch the bulb terminal on the flasher relay, my test light flashes. Albeit illegally fast once again, an issue i still do not know how to combat. So with all this said...i have no idea what's going on. Why do the orignal LED's work with an LED relay? Why do new LED's not work with that relay? Why do bulbs not work with the old flasher relay? Why does the test light light up when i ground it and touch it to the flasher relays indicator terminal? What the hell does all this mean! It seems right now like my car was built to only take cheap chinese LED's!

I’ll check temp gauge tomorrow morning again from cold. And the engine runs but like I say the revs driving are higher too. Yesterday I could get to 30mph at 2000rpm but now can’t reach 30mph before 2000rpm

Is this likely to be causing the temp gauge issues as well? It’s bad. Was fine yesterday but now I can’t even get up to 30mph in 3rd gear before it goes above 2000rpm, needing to change up to 4th

My idle has always been 1000rpm, however it’s now sitting 300-500 higher and my temp gauge is nearly halfway! Engine also starting to sound a bit more sluggish to start, the motor takes a bit more whirring before it kicks in. Not sure if related but any ideas about the temp gauge and rpm??