rogerguzzi
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Posts posted by rogerguzzi
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Hello Richard
I only got one of these as I did not want to make another hole in the dashboard.
I have carried out power consumption tests on all the electrical equipment to see if a Lucas 15acr alternator would cope and I would have to be sitting at tick over with every thing switched on? which is not likley to happen? you would turn off the headlights and heater and wipers as not needed when stationary and it balanced the fans out,
The charge rate at about 1500RPM balances everthing, so I can not see the need for a high output alternator unless you have heated windows and lots of extra electrical equipment.
So no worries when driving
Roger
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Hello All
Over the winter I have upgrade my radiator to full width(1500 Spitfire) and rebuilt the alternator(new bearings and brushes and a skim of the commutator.
I have also fitted two 9" fans controlled by a twin thermostat in the bottom of the radiator and over ride switch(2 postion = 1 or 2 fans)
Now the get to the topic? I have been thinking of battery drain when fans etc are on(going to Spain in June) I was thinking of fitting a Smiths volt meter into the dash.
As I looked about at prices I came across these and I thought at that price it will do the job and I can use it in any other car to test the alternator or dynamo.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B58VNZW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I have tried it against 2 good multi meters (retirement present if they only knew) and it is within 0.1 to 0.2 volts (minus) which is good enough for me and I suspect a lot more accurate than a Smiths voltmeter.
Roger
ps you do have to wait about 2 weeks for delivery but at that price I have patience.
Photo of fans set up and switch and leds(just above blue pencil) that is with both fans on the switch is center off and left for one fan, right for both and the leds work when fans switch from the thermostat also(1 or 2)
extra ps just found these they will be free with cornflakes next? and I have wasted £0.43 !!!!!!!!!!
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Hello Richard
Thank Clive not me it was his suggestion but it is a good idea.
I made a new circle of plywood to fit over the wheel to save removing the bracket off the hardboard? one.
Roger
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Hello Clive
I went out into the garage today to attack the headlight bowls! but I have had a change of heart because when I had taken the light unit out I saw the spring attachment is fixed almost in the middle of the bowl>
So I decided it was more trouble than it was worth and the bowls a riveted in(i have ordered a small 1/4" drive set from Halfords £13.50 with discount
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/garage-equipment/socket-sets/halfords-30-piece-socket-set-1-4
So I have modified the spare wheel fixing so I can fit the wheel inner side up, more room for tools and spares (thank's for the idea)
I used to put the spares under the wheel it will be much easier now, this where the club is good at sharing ideas.
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Hello Clive
Are these the type that sit up against the back of the lamp?
What size are they?
Roger
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Hello Clive
I always carry a full tool kit, I was just thinking it would be a lot easier at the side of the road and if it was night.
I like the idea of the spare wheel well side up, I always put spares under it but is a hassle.
The biggest grommit I can find on fleabay at the moment is 2" which may be a bit small?
Roger
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Hello All
I have a 1500 spitfire and a few days ago I decided to remove the headlight shrouds and check inside etc.
The reason being not had a reason to remove them up to now and as we are going to Spain later in the year for 2 1/2 weeks and I thought I would be b***erd if I could not get those 3 bolts out and the spanish plod saw me with only one headlight working!!!
As it happened they all came out ok (but I would need to carry a 7/16" socket or box spanner?)
Then I thought why not cut the back out of the headlamp bowl and fit a big rubber grommet in there so the lamp could be changed from the back as most modern cars are.
So the question is has anyone done this and what size grommet did you use etc?
If the curved surface proved a problem I could weld or solder a collar on the back?
What do we think?
Roger
ps I obvioulsy have to much time on my hands? but not really i just like a different challenge!
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Hello Andyj
Goodness me Jigsaw has gone down hill a bit????????????????
Roger
ps still I expect the service is still top notch?
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Hello All
I tested the power needed to operate a standard soleniod today(new) it was 4.5 to 5 amps which is about what I would expect so no real strain on the ignition switch.
I hope all the above may save some one burning out their ignition switch
Roger
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Hello Pete
That is how I fitted mine but I was curious as they say they can be run through the ignition switch for the sol side with the main cable direct to the battery if replacing a pre engage type but it would still need a relay, not as big as the ones fitted to our cars.
So I think this information is incorrect?
Roger
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Hello All
Do the 2000/2500 sixes have electronic Tachometers?
I only ask as I am going to convert my brother in laws TR6 to megajolt and I would like to get rid of the mechanical Tachometer.
Roger
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Hello All
I have been looking at my new starter set up and decided to see how many amps are need to pull the soleniod in (at the moment I have it wired through the starter sol ) so disconnected the small lead and put a shunt and amp meter in circuit and to my suprise it pulls about 40/45amps.
So if you wired it through your ignition switch it would fry.
Looked at the wiring diagram of our modern ford fusion they use a relay for the sol and 30amp fuse!
So be careful how you wire these type of starters(I shall stick to the standard set up, in fact I have purchased a spare soleniod to carry as a spare as they only cost £10)
Roger
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Hello Andy
Have a look at this site for good prices unless there is a local offer on?
http://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/
063 I think is what most people use? and a lot of these are 4 year warranty
Roger
http://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/wizard/Car+Battery+Finder/results/
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Hello All
I decided to fit one of these starters, so I popped up to the factory to have a look(they are only about 5miles from me)
I like the look of the RAC801 and RAC802 but they are about £60 more?
So I settled for the RAC401.
Now when I came to fit it I did some carefull measuring and came to the conclusion using the spacer as fitted to the car the teeth would only be about half in mesh?
So I found another spacer I had with a spare engine and this one was only 7mm thick (original 10mm?)
So I used this one and started the engine a few times then removed the starter to see the marking on the teeth to check meshing.
This photo shows what I found and it looks good and I think it is as near as no matter full mesh across the starter ring and about 3mm clear when not engaged.
It does not sound as bad as my brother in laws TR6!
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Hello Ben
8.75" (195mm) deep 10.5 (265mm) wide
But I agree with Clive 063 is a nice fit and common so cheaper
Roger
ps 1500 Spitfire
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Hello All
I am thinking of fitting one of these type of starters to my 1500 Spitfire.
I have been looking on the web at the pros and cons and prices(of course)
On one of the triumph club sites it is stated that this one fits? anybody know if this is true?
Roger
ps I may still buy one from the club shop for delivery to Stoneleigh
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Hello All
As the title says we are going to Spain this summer 13th June to 29th June.
We decided on this as we have been to Classic Spa twice and Classic Le Mans twice and as much as we enjoy the company of all our TSSC & TR Register friends we fancied a change(we stayed on after both events and toured the areas)
I spotted this
http://www.worldgpbikelegends.com/ (my other love)
So we have booked the ferry Portsmouth to Santander and 3nights accomadation at Jerez.
Now we just have to work out a good tour and we wan,t to see Gibraltar(not take the car in as I hear its a slow process)
So we are open to suggestions as to routes and places to stay(we wan,t to do mountains etc)
Roger
ps car is a Triumph Spitfire 1500
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Just get the Huco! 3 years no problems and quiet and does not run continuously like a woodpecker.
Roger
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Hello All
I like the free Club tax disc
Thanks you TSSC
Roger
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Hello All
How about one of these? and possibly fit the works inside the old case?
Cheap enough to have a play with!
or this if you want to look modern???
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Hello Mishmosh
I have the Huco fitted next to the washer pump and I can only hear it when the engine is not running and then only while it fills the float bowls(just like an SU type)not like a demented woodpecker! and 5 year warranty win win?
Roger
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Hello
I have used a Huco suction type on my Spitfire 1500 for about 8/9000 miles witth no problem and you don't need a pressure regulator just an inertia cut off switch in case of accidents and it saves a lot of cranking to fill float bowls in hot weather or after standing for long periods.
Plus they come with 5 year warranty
Roger
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Hello All
I am toying with building a replacement engine for my 1500 spitfire.
My present engine has 9.5 to 1 comp ratio and hardened valve seats and a reprofiled MK3 camshaft from canley classics, polished ports and modified combustion chambers, 4 branch mainfold ,K&N's and Megajolt ignition.
The reason I am thinking of building a new engine is this one has a slight death rattle at about 2750 to 3000rpm.
My question is what camshaft have people fitted to give a bit more power but not to race type and can camshaft bearings be fitted to block?
Roger
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Hello Ant
I would suspect your alternator is not giving correct voltage or fan belt is slipping, because if it is the original type of flasher can it relies in a bit of metal getting hot.
A modern electronic type would cure the indicator problem but not the root cause.
If you have a mini tester select a dc voltage scale to suit 12 to 15 volts and check the battery at tick over speed, you should have 12+ volts and rising to 14volts as you rev the engine.
If not check the fan belt for tightness and wear, if they are ok it is probably your alternator that is faulty.
You could just try unplgging the flasher can and look at the terminals if may be dirty connections if you are very lucky or try a different can.
Roger
1500 Camshaft
in Engine
Posted
Hello p7rider
No I think it is a bit of slack in the centre main bearing as I re shelled it and checked with plasti guage, but thinking about it maybe camshaft bearings are worn(non fitted late block) and oil pressure is slow to come up when been stood for a while!
Roger