Puglet1

ALL. Thank you very much for your contributions to this post. I will now spend the next stage of my life doing the research to follow the options you’ve given me. Pete.

John. That’s really helpful. I am in no hurry to do this but it’s useful to know what components are needed just in case something comes up. Thank you. Pete.

So. Sat here thinking I would like a bit more power from my Vitesse. Everyone says the best route to get more power in a Mk2 Vitesse is to go 2.5. Question is…. Which 2.5 engine is required and how do I identify the engine by its number? My current engine is really sweet so can it be converted to 2.5 and if so how? Looking for approximately 150 BHP. Is this achievable and if so what additional ancillaries are required…eg carbs, exhaust etc? I see a few people on here saying they have this type of conversion but another question is…..how much did it cost? Any suggestions ? Thank you. Pete.

It’s very easy to take the cover off the seat to see what the problem is. Replacement parts are readily available . No harm in looking?

Bob. I took advice from Gary who is very knowledgeable and helpful. My spring was within spec as per chart above. I also replaced the rubber buttons with delrin self lubricating type. Prior to driving the car I thought that I’d made a mistake because the rear suspension stood so high. Gary assured me it would return to its correct height once driven and I’m pleased to say he was right 👍

Bob. Sorry, forgot to mention that the handbrake cable and radius arms were also disconnected (I replaced all of the rear suspension bushes at the same time). Follow the procedure that chrishawley has attached, I did mine on my own but it would probably be easier if you have someone to help. Let us know how you get on! Pete.

I have just refurbished my rear spring and replaced the differential with a 3.62 ratio. I have also converted from lever type shockers to telescopic type- which you already have. My inner drive shaft bolts and shockers were already disconnected and I didn’t experience a difficulty in bolting the spring to the diff. I used a spring lifter and trolley jacks underneath the vertical link but I also used ratchet type cargo straps to align the vertical link with the spring. It isn’t an easy job but is definitely doable by one person. Did you check the centre off the spring to ground clearance in its free standing position before fitment? Pete.

I have just fitted a modified 4 hole diff to my vitesse roto. I placed a 6 holed top spring plate onto the 4 holed diff and used a cordless drill to drill the extra 2 holes. If you go this route, measure the depth of the original holes in the casing otherwise it’s easy to drill straight through it.

Johny. My original logic was the same as yours. Problem I have is DanMi and micklewis suggestions also seems to make sense. It will be interesting to see what others think?

Peter Truman. That’s a very smart job!

As in photo

I disassembled the carbs a few months ago and replaced some jets, washers and gaskets. I have foolishly forgotten which position the manifold heat shields sit. Is it the manifold side of the white block or carb side? Does it make a difference?

Have you replaced any of the fuel lines recently? As Pete said, it could be the dreaded rubber slithers in the carbs?

Thanks Ian.

Hi Ian. I have no experience whatsoever in working with carbon and really respect some of the engineering achievements which are carried out by people on this forum. Being of an inquisitive mind I am wondering if a carbon airbox could be affected by resonance? Sorry if this seems like a silly comment but I’m just being curious.

If you decide to go the cordless route, pick a brand and stick with it otherwise you’ll end up with different chargers and non interchangeable batteries between tools.

Yes, but not sure when at the moment- hopefully within the next couple of weeks. Pete.

Hi Gary. The rear lower wishbone to vertical link is assembled for each side of the car. This was achieved by Using the Canley supplied plastic bushes (which were to original spec) along with New Old Stock washers and rubber seals which I managed to source from another supplier. The vertical link slid into the lower wishbone using heavy hand pressure only. I measured the thickness of the Canley supplied washers and found the material to be 0.82mm compared to 0.40mm of the NOS ones. The lips on the large holed Canley washer measured 2.93mm compared with 2.09mm NOS. The rubber seals were of similar dimensions for each supplier. The small holed washer material thickness also reflected the large hole washers from each supplier. The additional 0.42mm of the Canley washers alone multiplied by 4 equates to 1.68mm additional interference when being assembled to the wishbone. I believe almost 2mm interference of these parts prevented me from assembling the wishbone to vertical link . I have attached a couple of photos below as David originally stated that it would be good to help others understand this concern. Thickness of NOS washer. Thickness of Canley supplied washer Lip on NOS washer. Lip on Canley washer. As a word of advice for anyone considering trunnion bushes I’d suggest you keep your old washers if possible. I hope this helps. Pete.

piran, I had the same problem with an original cardboard type tunnel. I bought a new rubber boot but the problem continued. To overcome the problem I used a modification that Pete Lewis suggested. Not only did it cure my problem but I think it has enhanced the look of my car.

Lucky man. I wish I lived closer to you!

I have spoken to Mike Papworth and have also managed to locate some NOS water shields and seals. Mike has told me that Canley parts are amongst the best available so I have decided to try fitment with the NOS parts. Next opportunity to get in the garage will be sometime next week. Watch this space.

Hi johny. The actual wishbone gap of 88.85 mm is less than Qtr of a mm different to manual The actual Vertical link width of 82. 65mm is roughly half of a mm different to manual. The wishbone gap with the trunnions fitted is 79.50mm. This means there is an interference of 3.15mm. I have attached more photos below.

Hi Gary. Thank you for the link. After reading it, I can confirm that the ones fitted to my car are the same dimensions as given in the workshop manual therefore should require the standard washers / dust cover and NOT the thicker ones that Htiek required. This makes me wonder if I have the “Thicker (TR7?) type washers/ dustcover and rubber seals. I’m hoping David from Canley classics can help?

Hi David. Thank you for checking the dimensions of the bush and sharing the details with the forum members. I am surprised to see that you have responded to our telephone conversation publicly as I haven’t mentioned where I bought the trunnion kit from in my post. I agree it will be helpful for others to understand this concern. I have taken photos of my parts and compared dimensions against the workshop manual. The lower wishbone gap is :- Manual 89.077. Actual part measures 88.85 which is a difference of 0.227 mm. The vertical link width is :- Manual 82.092. Actual part is 82.65 which is a difference of 0.558mm. Based upon these dimensions I would say that parts removed from the car are within spec as maximum difference from Manual is approximately half of one mm. I have also taken the thickness of the trunnion bush and washer assembly which is approximately 4.69mm. I have not removed the bush assembly from the wishbone as I did not want to disturb the parts so am unable to check the exact thickness of the bush. I too have my own ideas on where the concerns lie. What do you think the problem is? Regards. Pete. Pete.

Gav and Stratton Jimmer. I have contacted the supplier, they are going to check their stock and measure the parts supplied with NOS parts. Thank you for your support. Pete.