Puglet1

There are several methods. 1. Saturate the bolts with a good penetrating oil, tap the bolt several times to shock the threads / assist with oil penetration. Leave for a while then try using a good set of mole grips or your extraction tool again. 2. Apply heat to the base of the bolt using a flame , I use Oxy acetylene but you may be able to do it with a butane torch? I usually get the bolt cherry red before applying grips again. 3. I have also managed to remove a broken stud by mig welding an oversized nut to the broken bolt. This has a dual purpose of transferring heat into the bolt / housing and also allowing a socket to be used for removal. 4. If all else fails, as a last result you can drill down through the centre of the bolt and re- tap a new thread. If you were closer, I’d offer to help but did it to Worcestershire area is a bit far.

JohnD. That’s really handy to know, I have a Mig, Arc, Oxy acetylene and some square tube in the garage 😀. I use a hard copy of the Workshop manual so I don’t have a Haynes manual🙁. Time to go a searching I guess. As always…. Your help is much appreciated. Pete.

Hi Jon J 1250. They look really smart. My carpets fitted really well. There was plenty of material either side to trim underneath the trims. Let us know how you get on. Pete.

Excellent…….Pete Lewis to the rescue again! I have a stout bar, will check on the exhaust clamp situation. 👍

Thanks Gully 👍

So, I guess at this point I need to buy a rear spring lifting tool?

That’s interesting, I see the previous owner has fitted some red ones to the bottom of the trunnions. Many thanks. Pete.

Thank you Pete. I will have an another look. Is it easy to identify a cracked spring or does it need removing for inspection?

I can hear a creaking sound from my left rear of the car when going over pot holes / rough road surfaces. I have removed the rear wheels and placed axle stands underneath the suspension. If I push the car up and down I can replicate the sound but I am struggling to pinpoint the cause. I can see slight traces of rust between some of the leaf springs. My next step is to disconnect the rear shock absorber and try to replicate the sound again. Is there a common fault that I should investigate? Pete.

Brilliant. Now the humour starts followed by the other responses below. What a great bunch of guys - just backs up what I’ve said before…..This is a GREAT forum.

Thanks Doug that’s a great help, to be honest I was a little bit worried about putting a heart as a response just in case it meant a little bit more than like. 👍

Hi johny. I’m working on an iPad so cannot hover above the icons but I can now see the explanation for each one from Doug. Many thanks. Pete.

This thread is better than Peaky Blinders ……. At the end of each chapter you’d be left with a real cliff hanger! I Can’t wait to find out what happens next !👍

Maybe one for the Administrators. Can somebody please explain the difference between icons that are available on each post. As an example there is a heart and a cup. What does each of them stand for? I would often like to give a👍but it’s not on the menu?

Well Nicrguy. Nothing for me to contribute other than to say what a fantastic forum this is. You have got the “Top players” supporting you throughout a very difficult problem. If the rest of mankind had the same attitude as these guys I think the world would be a much better place for everyone. 👍

Brilliant! Glad to have been helpful. Will be interesting to know the final outcome which I’ve been following for a while.👍

Straightsix. I had the same problem as you so I bought a glass one with 5/16 outlets from :-

In days of old, I have seen a skilled mechanic attach a very good fitting ring spanner or socket and Tommy bar to the nut, ensured that the spanner was resting safely against the chassis , distributor cap removed and the starter motor “flicked “ to unlock the nut. Make sure you are happy with the position of the spanner before doing so.

Hi Chris. I was just going to tell you about that button when I saw the above quote. Great minds must think alike…. Both Triumph and Yeti owners. 👍Before moving to my current location I drove a 430 BHP Golf R estate which was a brilliant car but not suitable for the terrain and weather conditions we experience here. People laughed when I said I’d bought a Yeti but after doing much research it suits my needs perfectly and performs much better than some may think!

Ooh. That looks like a mean machine. Would you mind sharing what’s been done to it? Pete.

As we boarded the ferry we parked near an Italian driving a 1970s rally prepared Alfa Romeo he tooted and waved during boarding. As we disembarked, a motorcyclist commented on the car and was a club member that owned a GT6. Along the way we had several waves and interest from general public. Had a “salute from a French guy coming in the opposite direction driving an old Citroen DS. Finally parked up at a remote destination to be greeted by a French guy that owns a TR3 and a Lotus Europa. Remind me not to go to Italy as this has been more than an eventful day in my world.👍

You are right ! This is our first experience of doing so and am really pleased with the Vitesse. We’ve covered about 400 miles and arrived at Ile de Noirmoutier safely. Absolutely brilliant 👍

Johny, JohnD, and Mjit, Thanks to you all for your support. The headlamps are now sorted. Pete.

Hi JohnD. A full list of fitting instructions came with the EUROLITES kit for thousands of cars but older models weren’t covered. I have managed to whittle it down to 150A,B,or C .Just not 100% sure which position on the lens to place the stickers. I’m thinking about 7 ‘o’clock as you look at the light from the front of the car. Thank you for your help. Pete.

Can anyone please advise on the fitment of headlamp deflectors as I’m confused. My Vitesse is fitted with sealed beam units. Do I need to fit deflectors to all 4 headlamps? If so, roughly what position on the lens should they be fitted? The ones I have purchased are EUROLITES. Many thanks. Pete.