Puglet1

Pete Lewis. As always you have been really helpful.👍 Buckeye Triumphs is a very interesting site and is clearly documented. I’m looking forward to reassembling them once the bits arrive. Many thanks. Pete.

So, today I have been able to identify where the incorrect washer that was sat between the top bushing and the carb body came from. I removed the needle valve to clean it and was able to confirm that the previously mentioned incorrect washer in the top bushing was exactly the same as the needle valve one. I then checked the float heights, one was at 14mm and the other at 23mmm. I adjusted the first carb to 18mm and both plastic bowls were the same height . I then tried to repeat the process on the second carb but was unable to measure the plastic bowls on the float at the same height. This was due to the previous owner fitting a new float UPSIDE DOWN. I guess all of these issues are contributing to my difficulty in adjusting the mixture and tick over? I’m hoping to see a difference when the new washers and gaskets arrive…… fingers crossed 🤞

Oh dear Mr Lewis, washer wasn’t missing. It was the wrong one fitted - so I have no hesitation in saying it…….. YOU WERE RIGHT AGAIN !👍👍👍 Absolutely brilliant ! Many thanks. Pete.

Thank you Pete, I shall check it out!

Hello All. With the top of my carbs removed I noticed a difference in height of the bushing/ bushing screw assembly. The rear one was slightly proud of the carb body when looking through the air filter side of the carb, and the front bushing height was lower. Both bushing screws were fully tightened into the carb body. Is it possible to adjust the bushings? (I thought they should be level with the flat surface of the carb body when viewed from the air filter side of the carbs. Many thanks. Pete.

To back up what these guys are saying about helmets. I have 2 auto darkening ones in my garage. I mistakenly picked up the cheap helmet and wondered what was wrong with my mig welding (difficult to see the pool of weld or work area). I switched to my R-tech helmet and all was instantly back to normal.

Hi Roger. Thankyou for your help. I’ll check it out. Pete.

Hi Colin. It looks like it’s going to be blue glycol with either Kevlar or canvas hoses. I’d rather not experience the same as Santa if I can help it 😂 Thanks for your help and putting a smile on my face 👍 Pete.

Hi dougbgt6. You’ve just brought some reality back into my life. It’s probably how long I’m going to be around to enjoy the car? It’s so easy to look at buying the best materials (silicone) ones and overlook the obvious. Search will start for high quality standard hoses now 👍. Thank you. Pete.

Hi GrahamB. Yes, I guess we are going to be doing various bits and bobs on our 50+year old triumphs so it probably makes sense to use Blue glycol. Thanks for your opinion. Pete.

Hi Nigel. Thank you. Knowing the percentages is really helpful. Pete.

attwood65. All I can say is practice, practice, practice. Don’t rely upon your eyes, use your ears as well. You will know when the weld is right. Can I ask what mig welder you are using?

Sorry. It seems like a silly question but what colour antifreeze should I put in my Mk2 vitesse? The current fluid is rust coloured and I have not changed it since I purchased the car so don’t know what the previous owner filled the system with. I am also thinking about changing the hoses, should I replace them with silicone ones? Many thanks. Pete.

Hi Paul. Yes, that’s brilliant! That certainly does help 👍 Pete.

trigolf. Thank you for coming back to me. That makes it much easier for me to understand what is involved. Based on what you have said, I shall take another look at it before making my final decision . Pete.

trigolf. I bet you’re going to be smiling all over your face after throwing that curveball in. I hadn’t accounted for the reconditioned lever arms being of poor quality. Anyway, your comment has given me another quandary to think about 😀🤞. Pete.

Hi Gary. As usual, Thank you for your support. It’s so much easier to make a decision after an experienced person has offered help and advice. I keep swaying between the 3 options I have listed above but they all seem to have their pros and cons. I was 95% on my way to fitting the brackets and your Koni option but I thought about the negative effects of separating the tub to chassis…… (difficult to do and I guess a potential for corrosion due to the increased gap between the tub and chassis?). Hence, as a novice at this sort of thing, your advice is very much appreciated. Pete.

Hi all. Now at the point of what to do with rear suspension. The body is in very good original condition - undersealed from new and has never been welded. The rear rotoflex are in very good condition and don’t really need replacing. The rear shockers are now at a stage whereby they need sorting. Based on the above information, I am slightly reluctant to disturbing the tub to chassis fitment as required for the bracket and shocker replacement if retaining the rotoflex system. I could fit CV type driveshafts and non rotoflex shockers but it seems a bit of a waste as my rear shafts are ok. I have found a company that will refurbish my lever type shockers and can also fit adjustable valves. Can I ask your opinions? Many thanks. Pete.

Hi Graham. Do you own a Mk2 Vitesse? The reason I’m asking is I would like to understand what suspension setup you have decided to run with.

This is a very interesting question. Unfortunately I don’t have any experience in this field so cannot answer it. I believe in a previous post I read the shock absorber is most efficient in the most upright position? (Maybe a comment made by JohnD)? I am also interested to find out the answer before making the next adjustments to my rear suspension. Either way I hope you enjoy your new purchase.

PeteH. I have ordered a Haynes manual which won’t be here until the end of next week. You have really helped by copying this for me as I can get onto it sooner rather than later. Thank you very much. 👍 Pete.

There are several methods. 1. Saturate the bolts with a good penetrating oil, tap the bolt several times to shock the threads / assist with oil penetration. Leave for a while then try using a good set of mole grips or your extraction tool again. 2. Apply heat to the base of the bolt using a flame , I use Oxy acetylene but you may be able to do it with a butane torch? I usually get the bolt cherry red before applying grips again. 3. I have also managed to remove a broken stud by mig welding an oversized nut to the broken bolt. This has a dual purpose of transferring heat into the bolt / housing and also allowing a socket to be used for removal. 4. If all else fails, as a last result you can drill down through the centre of the bolt and re- tap a new thread. If you were closer, I’d offer to help but did it to Worcestershire area is a bit far.

JohnD. That’s really handy to know, I have a Mig, Arc, Oxy acetylene and some square tube in the garage 😀. I use a hard copy of the Workshop manual so I don’t have a Haynes manual🙁. Time to go a searching I guess. As always…. Your help is much appreciated. Pete.

Hi Jon J 1250. They look really smart. My carpets fitted really well. There was plenty of material either side to trim underneath the trims. Let us know how you get on. Pete.

Excellent…….Pete Lewis to the rescue again! I have a stout bar, will check on the exhaust clamp situation. 👍