daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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Hi. I was wondering about this known method. It could give an accurate measurement of the needle height , though maybe not necessarily the air flow into each carb, as the pistons may have different sliding resistance due to wear etc.
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Hi. I've always just tightened plugs, to a good hand/wrist pressure, using a T bar handled wrench.
I've just read some blurb, implying that if a torque wrench is not used, one problem of under torqueing, is that combustion chamber heat may not escape enough through the plugs.
Never heard this before?. What do you think?.
Cheers, Dave
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33 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Just had a trial fitting and the rubbers are still supple and as new, going round the corners is a bit tricky as they're not moulded, but the biggest problem is going to be the right-angled corners where the upright section meets. It's not as simple as just cutting edge to edge due to the shape required to fit both glass and bodywork, and any gap will be quite noticeable. Any ideas before I start trimming?
45 degree cuts, should butt up?
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Maybe worth contacting Baines for advice?. They have been helpful in the past.
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On 22/04/2024 at 18:27, Pete Lewis said:
often a good dose of redex in the plug hole and left for a few days can make a cheap improvement
After this, though maybe a be a good idea to turn the engine over before fitting plugs, as if the Redex hasn't drained down from the piston top, then could hydraulic the engine?
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On 06/04/2024 at 20:38, Pete Lewis said:
yes but as it is convoluted you can squeeze it up to access the rack bush end
if it slides up the track rod , just pull it back when done
there is no greaser , its hands on job
Pete
Cheers Pete. Will bear it in mind, when I have some car time.
Once accessed, is the actual bush greaseable?
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Ah. I prefer that paint myself. I always thought your scheme was the model was the model before the last T500? (M ?), which I assumed would be an L?.
I'm just doing a bit off train spotting I suppose
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Thanks for the info Cookie, for "The Gauge Shop". have have noted it.
Used to have a T500, the last model (M, I think), Great bikes.
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Not text book!, though would araldite etc, secure it, as a workable bodge?
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
The small screw lets the internals fall out... so don't remove it!
Didn't know that!. Removed it on a couple of occasions, as the forum years ago though it was "maybe", to use as an oiling point?
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On 05/04/2024 at 09:56, Pete Lewis said:
it is also worth pull the N/S gaiter off and manually grease the rack as this end is lubed for life
the rack and the end bush go dry
Hi Pete. I'm going off my visual memory here, though will the gaiter, not just slide along the track rod arm, for access?
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On 21/03/2024 at 12:36, Pete Lewis said:
there is nothing in the bellows
Hi Pete. I have the (maybe original) hand washer pump on Vitesse. Does you mean there is nothing that wears or deteriates on these?
I assumed there was some sort of rubber seal/seals that could maybe fail.
Cheers, Dave
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I have used Citric Acid powder mixed with wallpaper paste to form a gel (seems to need a minimal amount of water) for upright/areas that can't be removed from car. Best in summer temps. Also cover with cling film to stop drying out. Left it on for a few days.
Seemed to work better than Jelonite, etc
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6 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
get 18/24 mpg which is still astonishing
It is. I had always thought 2 strokes (not sure about diesel ones?) were generally more thirsty than 4 strokes?.
What a lovely truck. My secondary school was on a main road that then climbed up. 60's Foden 2 strokes used to drop a gear and howl up the hill, what a sound
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Well I contacted the seller to confirm the price and they said that price was for one only. The add, had a unit price of £0.55 shown, which to my maths would have meant £3.30 for six.
They are listed as NOS and photo show's a larger tatty/aged box.
Will cancel my order.
Apologies for the mis information
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Sorry Paul, I just edited post to include sellers name, as have trouble with links
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Thought this might be useful. just bought some for Vitesse. 9 left at present.
I couldn't do a link, though sellers name is windturbine-tec-2012
Dave
PLEASE IGNORE THIS THREAD REGARDING THE PRICES, THEY ARE NOT CORRECT
More info below
Apologies
Dave
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8 hours ago, PeteH said:
when all you got was Blue there is now a plethora of "Gay" shade`s
Not like the good old blue "nasty, right wing, shades, eh?.
Nice to be a inclusive club, eh?
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Thanks for the info guys
Dave
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Thanks for all your replies. About 15,000 miles ago, there was a very slight, just noticeable to my eyes, movement when the clutch was operated. I temporarily fastened a steel bar in front of the rad, which left a gap of about 1/4" between the bar and the fan bolts. I pushed/levered the pulley/crank rearwards, took a feeler gauge measurement of the gap between a fan bolt head and the bar, then pressed in clutch and measured again. It was showing around 10thou (3 thou more than WSM specified tolerance?) less, so took this as a rough idea of the crank float/movement. Repeated this process a few more times, and it was the same measurement.
Just did a visual test recently and the movement was again, barely noticeable, as it was previously. I am therefore assuming it is not getting drastically worse and will take the risk of it causing damage.
Dave
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Hi. I understand that manifold vacuum is highest at idle?. If so, would any worn inlet valve guides be more prone to sucking more oil into the cylinders at idle, than at higher RPM which has more air being sucked into cylinders, though less manifold vacuum?. Hope this question makes sense?.
Ta, Dave
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Just edited it
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Ah, that Dave. Certainly, Canley are my no1, to go to
Balancing air flow to twin carbs, by the height of a straw in each dashpot. Is this an accurate measure of the air flow to each carb?
in Fuel System
Posted
Thanks guys. I had sort of forgot that!