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daverclasper

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Posts posted by daverclasper

  1. 2 hours ago, Mjit said:

    If there's more air in the new pipe you'd get a lower reading.

    I'm pretty sure, I noticed there was more air when I replaced the tube, than previously.

    Also, I understand the gauge may well be inaccurate, as to actual pressure. It was because it maybe dropped in a short space of time, that I wondered if was because of, as per thread title.

    Thanks again for replies

  2. I replaced this on the Vitesse a few years ago, as was looking old and brittle. The original was maybe around a metre in length? and a fairly straightish run from the block to gauge. The only one I found available at a reasonable price was from Moss, I think it was 1.8 M long and is hence circularly, curled around a few times before going through the bulkhead to the gauge.

    I never made a note of when I replaced it and never linked it ("doh") though may have been around the same time I noticed  my oil pressure dropped from around 65 at 2000rpm, to 50 at running temp and idle, about 25, to 18.

    I assume?, the longer the hose, the less pressure?, though no idea if it makes a difference in this arrangement? 

    This was a good few thousand miles ago and still ok, and hasn't got worse, so not too bothered.

    Intrigued if it could be related ?, please.

    Thanks 

  3. On 29/11/2023 at 16:03, Ian Foster said:

    I'll also be replacing the pilot bearing as I could have worn unevenly if the bellhousing was slightly off.

    Thanks for the useful info. Is that a sleeve/short tube in the bell housing, that accommodates the shank of the 3/8" dowel bolt?. 

  4. 4 hours ago, Gully said:

    Then vaseline the connections before pushing the pipes back onto the carbs.

    Yes, I always do that and try to fit the hose straight on. Also I have put a bit of a chamfer on the metal pipe ends 

  5. Could a hose be partially clamped somewhere (before, or after?) along the fuel line to temporarily reduce fuel pressure/amount of fuel to carbs. If the car then runs ok  (at higher rpm as well) with no leaks, then maybe pump providing too much pressure?.

    I assume?, a needle valve not sealing well would leak as the the pump works harder, so could be better with line clamped, though still providing enough fuel for running, even if the pump was providing usual pressure?

    I'm no expert, so maybe BS?  

  6. 1 hour ago, johny said:

    Dont forget that corrosion needs oxygen of which there shouldnt be much in the fuel tank😮  

    Thanks. I did wonder about that Johny.

     

    5 minutes ago, Wagger said:

    only use reserve setting to test for rust.

    Thanks Wagger. I never use reserve, as not to risk picking up crud. How would I use reserve to check for rust without pulling it into the main feed pipe

  7. Thanks Johny, that's useful. I guess any drastic internal rot would be at the bottom and only seen with tank removal (unless fuel was completely siphoned out and maybe able to get a good view of bottom of tank)?

    I'm thinking you reckon trying to remove plug gently is risky?. I wouldn't be giving much force if I tried this.

    I think also this area of the tank around the plug has often been subjected to corrosion from road spray and boot ingress of water etc. Mine is externally very sound.

    Think I ay give it a gentle go, wish me luck 

  8. Hi. I understand why this is best left alone, though please hear me out.

    I have never had problems with any crud or rust getting into the feed pipe, though I understand that any water that may be in the tank from condensation (car is outside all year) etc will sit at the bottom of the tank?

    If so, could this cause the tank to rot out at the bottom?.

    If so, it would, lt would seem a good idea to drain the bottom of tank now and then?.

    There is hardly any corrosion on my car, in fact I have never had a problem at all undoing any chassis fasteners etc.

    So. I was thinking to attempt to gently loosen the tank plug. I think Colin advised to grip the plug neck.

    I was also thinking that as well as penetrating fluid, some gentle heat on the neck would not cause the fuel to ignite, then some gentle tapping with a hammer on the spanner?

    What do you think?.

    I would struggle afford a replacement tank, if it did let go.

    Thanks

     

     

  9. Hi. This is the steering rack inner ball joint I gather.  I only do around 2000 miles gentle driving a year, so not too urgent I assume?.

    If I understand the Haynes manual, this may be corrected by re shimming the balljoint cup and it's housing?.

    If so, what would be the easiest way to do this, can it be done without removing the rack?.

    I can't see any shims that are available?, and if I can adapt alternatives or make my own, then I enjoy that type of thing. If so what what be the best material to use? and any advice please.

    PS. I understand that there is a bush on just the nearside of the rack that doesn't get lubed with regular greasing and can therefore wear. Could this be the issue? and any info on if this can be DIY repaired?.  In the manual, I cant find a reference to it, or see it on the rack diagram? 

    Thanks

     

     

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