daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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50 minutes ago, Jon J 1250 said:
That's right, I wasn't saying its comes from inside but once it find a way in from the outside, water sits in the seam and gets under the factory seam sealer, which holds the moisture against the metal for a long time, causing more rot and making the whole thing worse.
As more water gets in, so the boot floor, wing and wheelarch will start to suffer. Need to catch it early.
Ah, what has confused me, was that I read the original post as if it was water getting into the roof trim area that had caused the problem
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I wonder if DB Aston owners owners, use David Brown tractor parts🙂
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31 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
No, it's running down from outside and settling under the seals on top of the metal.
That's what I though, if my last sentence made sense?
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On 16/10/2023 at 17:17, Jon J 1250 said:
Yes, I have this problem too.
When water gets into the deck/wing seam it gets in behind the factory butyl seam sealer, which holds the water in the seam and makes a real mess of it.
The seam is a real pain to access and weld repair from inside the boot. Probably, best to measure three times, trial fit and weld the seam on the bench then fit the whole lot to the car in one piece.I'm probably going to use a NOS rear deck and wing top to do mine, an expensive way of doing it, but it should be offset by the time/money saved by everything already being the correct shape.
Hi. Are you saying this rot is coming from the inside of the deck/top of wing?. I always assumed this issue was due to the joint/seam sealant on the outside failing and allowing water to creep down into the joint?
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1 hour ago, nicrguy1966 said:
Also, one of my tappets is making a lot of noise, so another job for the future
I don't know how flat your rocker pads are, the valve tips can wear an indent and setting with feelers leaves too large a gap. there are ways around this
To identify a noisy rocker, then when idling, push a thinner gauge old feeler in the gap and the rogue one should quieten down
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On 28/08/2023 at 17:58, Colin Lindsay said:
I must be a cheap sod, I use the plastic filters and replace once a year.
I must be even cheaper, still on the plastic one which was on the car when I bought it 10 years, 25000 miles ago. Its still clean though and carry a spare in the boot.
Any need to change it yet.
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Thanks Johny. So maybe, the same as trunnion check with a lever under the tyre?
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Thanks Johny. Seems like it does it on smoothish surfaces as well.
Must admit I forgot about the top ball joint, though I understand it's not possible to check this without removing it?
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Hi. Trying to trace a fairly quiet knocking that may be from front nearside, I can only hear it at slow speed and is a bit more pronounced when doing right turns.
on both sides, trunnions and their bushes appear ok, as does rack inner and outer ball joints and bushes at shock abs's top and bottom. No obvious play in wishbone bushes.
Drop link bushes were on the car when I bought it 10 years ago and look shot, especially the nearside and appears to have some play when anti roll bar is levered with a crowbar against the bottom wishbone.
I'm wondering if it's possible to disconnect just the end/s of anti roll bar to isolate this as being/or not, the cause?
If so? would it be best to disconnect the bush at bar end, or the spherical thing attached to wishbone?
It looks like their may be too much tension in the bar to free just the drop links anyway?
Thanks
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5 hours ago, Gully said:
Vernier on the Lucas 22D6 is 4 degrees for a full rotation of the wheel, so 1/4 rotation is 1 degree. Spent ages researching that as my GT6 has an after-market distributor (with Lucas electronic ignition and separate AB14 amplifier)
With my Vitesse, I seem to get some pinking developing, maybe after 700 miles ( maybe give or take a couple of 100 miles). Dont know why, though around 10 clicks on the vernier to retard it, seems to cure the pinking
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2 hours ago, micmak said:
But the big surprise today was the difference in the car when I advanced the timing a little. Unbelievable!
Great your getting there. Was this rotating the dizzy, or using the vernier gauge (if your dizzy has one?)
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Hi. Can I assume that if current anti freeze in the cooling system, is clean and clear, it is doing this job, as would have some brown rust discolouration, if not?
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1 hour ago, micmak said:
since leaning out the fuel and correcting the filter assembly.
Maybe too lean now, if the issue was the filters etc upside down?
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1 hour ago, micmak said:
Really
Definitely. I had done some ignition work and also changed the air filters, though wrongly assumed it must be ignition causing the problem so I was chasing that for a while with same symptom, every time I took for a test drive (ok for a few miles then terrible).
I then remembered the air filters, and that was the problem on the one carb, sorted straight away and ran fine.
I wasn't as knowledgeable then, if I had looked at the plugs then I'm sure the the 3 from that carb would have been very sooty/wet and would have pointed to carb issue, rather than ignition
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Once, I fitted a filter on upside down on one carb. Car would run ok for a few miles, then terrible
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I bought a couple of NOS spacers off Mick Dolphin (nice guy) maybe about 18 months ago
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Of course. Gel useful for areas of body, etc
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I had the chirping noise on Vitesse (disappeared when the clutch slightly depressed with fingers) . Not that uncommon apparently, and may be caused by a shorter than should be, release bearing often supplied.
I have a thread on here regarding this issue and cured the noise with a weak spring on the push rod. Info and a photo on here somewhere?
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1 hour ago, Iain T said:
To fit and align the bellhousing Triumph in their wisdom used a dowel at 12 o'clock and one oversized bolt at about 5 o'clock. The rest are smaller 5/16". Don't know why the didn't use two dowels as this misalignment is not uncommon to the ill-informed. Best check as its such a simple mistake to rectify. Using the same size 5/16th bolts allows the bellhousing to rotate norra lot but enough to make the gearbox want to leap out the car! I kid thee not I couldn't drive over 45mph!
I had one bell housing bolt that had come out on an Iveco van. Van would shake like hell, over 55mph. I was surprised it caused this
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Great your happy with it, no more messing now!, though always other stuff!
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Also, I have found you can make a liquid into a gel, using wallpaper paste. Cling film over it will prevent it drying too quickly
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Thanks, that's great. I only want to pull the wooden section out a bit, to rust proof the electrical connections at this point, though have restored a spare one that came with the car to maybe fit in the future
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Thanks Johny. Looks like a possible candidate?. Wonder what access is like. Surprised there aren't more comments about this
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29 minutes ago, johny said:
Have you tightened your gearbox nuts while it was off or is just mine that seem to loosen off?
Don't know?, though after you mentioned this before, I always check if I'm in there, and so far fine
Zero compression on cylinder 4
in Engine
Posted
Great, well done for sticking with it