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daverclasper

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Posts posted by daverclasper

  1. Thanks folks. All good now

    One thing. After fitting the new pipe work, though not connected to carbs yet as I wanted to run some fuel through to clear any debris that may be in the new pipes.

    I turned on the fuel tap in the boot, that I had previously fitted.  In the past, I have had to crank, or operate pump manually to get fuel through as I remember?.

    Straightaway, fuel started to flow out of carb ends of pipe. This has never happened before as I remember?.

    Is this ok

    Ta

  2. On 01/08/2023 at 14:39, Iain T said:

    Surely it can't be a carb or fuel problem as with a single carb all four cylinders would be effected. It must, and I use that word cautiously, be an electrical fault on 3 and 4 only. Try swapping leads and plugs? 

    Not the case here, though inlet manifold could have leaks?, affecting individual cylinders?

     

  3. HI. Have fitted new pipe and T piece. Not started car yet to check for leaks.

    One thing. I removed the bolt (mentioned previously) which holds the pump housing and petrol pipe P clip. The bolt was wet with coolent and the hole weeping slightly.

    I wasn't  expecting this, is it a problem?

    Thanks, Dave

  4. Thanks Colin.  Intending to buy from Paddocks. So, Mines a Mk1 2Litre Vitesse, that has 1/4" pipe throughout (I understand the Mk2 has 5/16" from pump to carbs?).  Going by their website, I can buy 1/4" pipe and also the T piece section that goes to the carbs, though this appears a generic part. if this is the 5/16" size, do you think I can get my existing 1/4" hose on with a bit of persuasion? 

  5. 12 minutes ago, Iain T said:

    No it's fine, done that when I fitted a rubber lined P clip. I'm not partial to chaffing😬

    Thanks Iain. I thought it would be, as has not been disturbed since I bought the car 10 years ago, so probably, well bonded together, if you get my drift

  6. Thanks, useful info.

    The pipe area across the front of the engine, is held by a clip that is fastened by a bolt through, (I think ?) ,the water pump housing and into block.

    Do you think the seal of housing to block would be undisturbed and therefore ok if I removed this bolt and refitted it?

    Thanks

  7. Hi. Vitesse is outside all year, so will be some damp conditions. There is some rusting/pitting of fuel line in the engine bay. Thinking that removing/treating rust to stop it getting worse, though would feel more confident if had an idea of roughly how thick the metal is?. For example, if say about 1mm, should be ok, 1.5 mm, even better.

    Thanks Dave

  8. 36 minutes ago, johny said:

    Should do nicely Dave with two non return valves, one as described above and the other in the outlet port to try n hold oil up in the engine oil ways...

    Thanks Johny. To be honest, I'm not worried about the orientation of the filter, or the return valves. The car only gets started from cold on average, about once a week (without choke, until pressure builds).

    My post was to give the Kevin the Mann part no

  9. On 19/07/2023 at 09:29, Colin Lindsay said:

    You need two people, one to move the steering back and forth and the other to watch for movement at the joints. You will see movement if any of the joints or bushes are worn, just watch each joint or bush and you'll see a pause between the part before moving and the part after.

    Thanks Colin. I assume?, it would show more movement with the car at rest and not in the air?

  10. Thanks Guys. I was also wondering about the wishbone bushes and the ball joint at the top of the turret. Its not obvious to me how to detect movement?

    Do have a bit of a knock/rattle, that I'm trying to track down, that is maybe from the front of car. Not too worried, as I guess if it gets worse, it will be more identifiable.

  11. On 12/07/2023 at 18:18, Gully said:

    Mind you, it's unlikely - main issue I had was finding a cap deep enough!

    Do you know who supplied it please gully. Same issue on mine (though Vitesse). Currently using a rubber washer and about a 5mm thick washer to reduce the depth.

    Maybe not sealing where it should, as have empty section/sections of overflow hose always.

    No problems with overheating, even when really hot ambient temp and traffic jams, so not the end of the world I guess?

    Thanks, Dave

  12. Hi. I have 4 workshop manuals (inc the factory one). I can't find any useful info on how check for wear on bushes, ball joints, (inc steering rack ball joints within the rubber boot) etc (as would be checked by an MOT tester).

    I know how to check the trunnion bushes and vertical link/trunion thread wear, also the steering column to steering rack joint seems obvious to check.

    I just cant find info on where to lever/feel/listen etc on other areas, and if car is resting, or drooping when doing so?.

    Any links to detailed information, much appreciated.

    Thanks folks

     

     

  13. On 24/06/2023 at 07:15, johny said:

    Why not wait until the hottest day, go for a high speed run and then leave idling for 20mins to see where the temperature gauge gets to and more importantly if the carburation remains happy and the rad cap doesnt lift? That would get rid of any doubts... 

    Is the carburation not being happy, necessarily related to engine running too hot. My Vitesse doesn't overheat, though if idling for long periods in hot weather traffic jams, will start to run badly. I assumed it was under bonnet temp causing fuel vapouration?  

  14. 32 minutes ago, Phil C said:

    ad a closer look to see if I could identify where the play was occuring and found the pedal clevis pin hole was badly worn. I had been driving the car without carpet/sound felt which had allowed sufficient pedal movement so the problem went unnoticed. However having just fitted the interior it soon became apparent.

    I have now welded up the hole, re-drilled to the correct size and all seems to work as it should.

    Well done

    • Thanks 1
  15. On 19/06/2023 at 06:54, johny said:

    yes they seem to vary as Ive had some easier than others but theres no need for Triumph to have made the fit so tight as the bearing is retained by a circlip anyway!

    Had this issue with gearbox shaft/bearing. I wonder if the machining isn't always accurate (tool, or operator) on the shafts?. I assume the bearing itself would not be out of spec, if not a cheap one?

    Also, thanks Johny and Colin, for back plate info

  16. On 16/06/2023 at 14:45, Robin said:

    Quick update - tracked the problem down to the breather valve assembly. There were two holes in the rubber diaphragm - now replaced and idle back to normal.

    Yes. Had hunting, and tried various ideas off forum. Was my breather diaphragm

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